Discuss Re-wire preference - under floorboards or removed ceiling in the The Welcome Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

Agree with doing it from below, if your taking down the ceiling anyway. Floorboards never go back the same, and if they're quite old they might split etc, and some end up having to be replaced. Is the flooring chipboard?

That said, even doing it from below, you might end up with a few flow boards up anyway. Also removing the ceiling may reveal some horrors (not just electrical), that'll need fixing.
So, with the possibility of splitting a few floor boards that will be covered up with carpet anyway, plus you might expose some dangers that may effect the lives of the occupiers, you would rather (sorry you mentioned " if the ceiling is coming down anyway") then I would agree do the work from below, still don't agree that it will be easier regardless, I spent many years rewiring by lifting floors, so to label my method as in your day, thats how I learnt my Trade, (not you Midwest) was / is a bit of a neck, still times and methods change.
 
With the floor up and the joists exposed it would be quite simple to plt down light positions, unless of course you are a complete numpty.
With furnished rooms above, you will have limited access. With an open ceiling below, any possible obstructions become blindingly obvious and enables a much easier install.
I think it's more a case of you being stuck in your ways I'm afraid, and I'm no Numpty.
 
With furnished rooms above, you will have limited access. With an open ceiling below, any possible obstructions become blindingly obvious and enables a much easier install.
I think it's more a case of you being stuck in your ways I'm afraid, and I'm no Numpty.
Never said you were a Numpty Mate
 
Ceilings down is far better job, easier to drill holes in the correct span of the joists, cables can be clipped rather than fished, easier to get down lights in, don’t have to move furniture as much, don’t have to pull carpets up above. To take floors up imo is madness if the ceiling is coming down , as in the OP. I ping a line with the chalk line, cut a bit of wood half the height of the joist and use it to mark the centre, get the angle drill out with a decent wood bit and drill the row of holes....Takes minutes
 
have to agree with lsk. a decent 22mm auger bit on a mains/110V makita ploughs through joist in seconds. recently done a job with 4" joists. drilled the whole property in under 1 hour.
 
only problem i find with the makita is due to it's length and the length of the bit, you can't drill straight, you need to drill at an angle. to overcome the threading of the cables, (TIP). drill alternate joists from one direction, then the intermediate ones from the other, that eases pulling the cables through.
 
I use a Makita Brushless Combi and these wood bits. They fly through joists, and they don't tend to catch like Auger bits would. Also the holes are nice and straight and bit and drill fit quite comfortably in between joists.

On the original topic, the ceiling is coming down anyway so leave the floor alone, and if I had a preference it would be ceilings down each and every time.
 
Electricians are used to doing what they can with what they've got - having the option between floor or ceiling is something of a luxury.

If you're taking the ceiling down anyway then your electrician could work with that, although after the ceiling has been skimmed I'd probably rather feed the cables down from above than fish them through from below, although there's not much in it.

Are the ceilings really made purely from "thin chipboard" or is the chipboard encapsulating something more sinister?
 
OP might be confusing chipboard with plasterboard.
That makes sense, although confusing information can lead to confused suggestions.
I'm experimenting with giving suggestions purely based on what information is given, although I've slipped a bit with the last paragraph of my last post.
 
That makes sense, although confusing information can lead to confused suggestions.
I'm experimenting with giving suggestions purely based on what information is given, although I've slipped a bit with the last paragraph of my last post.
that's nothing....i've just slipped in a wet kitchen floor after 'er indoors had mopped it. almost was a disaster, but i managed to put my beer onto the worktop before falling.PHEW.
 
that's nothing....i've just slipped in a wet kitchen floor after 'er indoors had mopped it. almost was a disaster, but i managed to put my beer onto the worktop before falling.PHEW.
You should get her a 'wet floor' sign.
Maybe for Christmas.
I'm sure she'd be delighted with it.
 
she'd probbly whack me over the yed with it. (unless it had gold and diamonds). butt...last crimboi bought her a toaster ( from a charity shop, ÂŁ4. she was over the moon with it. ( well it is a DeLonghi).
 
Rewires always a pain if occupied, whatever, under the floor boards every time for me. Imagine drilling a row of holes in the joist above your head, purgatory, kill your back and shoulder in no time, sure you get bad knees from doing it under the floor, but far far easier than working over your head.
From below is how new houses are wired. From what you have said regarding your work history you've one both for a reasonable amount of time which one of the two evils would you choose?
 
I have the makita 110V but been toying with idea of getting one of these....I see a plumber using one and it was brilliant.

Milwaukee M18CRAD-502X M18 FUEL Hole Hawg - https://www.milwaukeepowertools.co.uk/milwaukee-m18crad-502x
Not much torque in the spec of that one (25Nm), maybe ok for general usage.
The Milwaukee fuel drill I bought about a year ago has something like 135Nm torque, I can honestly say it the best drill I have owned.
You obviously don't get the space advantage as with the right angle type. I do have a Dewalt angle drill (33Nm), but it is limited with the chuck size.
The M18FRAD-0 M18 FUEL would be a better choice I think
 

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