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or, tell your customer to leave the property whilst you are working and get your chase on with an impacter and a chisel bit, make good before the return home :D
 
for the box use 5.5 masonry bit or something near that size, mark out the line , grab a masonry chisel or a joiners flathead screwdriver and knock out the square, it should come off quite easy once youve drilled all the way round

get it quite often with the diamond corer, if the wall is too deep i have to chisel out the 4inch block to carry on, usually a few good hits with the hammer removes it, but if not, get the chisel in the gap and prize it till the 4inch block snaps off
Hit a screwdriver with a hammer?? you Philistine, blasphemy. I trust you mean a demolition screwdriver.
 
Just got a delivery from Saxton, so ready to tackle a job tomorrow. I'm taking down a glass-brick partition wall, and don't just want to hit it with a hammer. I got diamond tiped blades for my multi-tool and hoping it will slice nicely between the bricks. I suppose it all depends on what the grout is...just grout, or cement...
I will report back.
 
Just got a delivery from Saxton, so ready to tackle a job tomorrow. I'm taking down a glass-brick partition wall, and don't just want to hit it with a hammer. I got diamond tiped blades for my multi-tool and hoping it will slice nicely between the bricks. I suppose it all depends on what the grout is...just grout, or cement...
I will report back.

Just be thankful its not blue engineer brick!
 
My only worry is that the "builder" has incorporated the glass bricks into a supporting wall. My archictect laughed when I asked him..."glass bricks are NEVER structural"...
aye, and you can't run your sockets on bell-wire...
Anyway, job postponed 24 hours, but I'm certain it's a light partition wall only and the glass bricks are only there to allow borrowed light into the kitchen...a common conversion in tenement flats.
 
OK, it went well...sort of!
9am, glass brick wall, and I attacked it with Saxton diamond tipped blade
(sorry, I took pics but for some reason they won't upload...)
Saxton sliced in ok, and I thought, here we go! But, I had not reckoned with the huge nylon spacers which clogged the blade...the blade was very good, but as each brick had a grout line that was nylon spacer for a third its width at each side, well I wasn't going anywhere...
Next up, angle grinder! WoW! cut through no problem, although the nylon spacers did cause a hiccup...but the dust was unbelievable, set the smoke alarms off (all 3 of them, being radio-linked, but thats another thread!) so I stopped after one run along the bottom row. It's now 10am, and I have 1 glass block extracted, the flat is full of dust and it's looking hopeless...
so I got out the club hammer...
10.30, the wall is gone! Put full goggles and mask on, and just hit it...result!
Made a mess, but a cleanable mess, so my view is hammer it!
Finally, those Saxton diamond tipped blades for tile/grout are very good...just not for this job. (But much better than the dewalt blades which, oddly enough, are not available to pick up or for delivery from Screwfix, even though showing online...)
Sorry no pics but my pc won't upload from my phone tonight...
 
I use saxtonblades as well and the brick ones are good for soft brick and plaster, I do a few listed buildings and have found that stitch drilling the switch box outline first and then use the multi in the holes to get the last bits out works well then a small scutch chisel if you need to remove any brick for depth as they don't seem to rattle the wall as much as a bolster. Also I use the irwin multiconstruction drills as they will drill with no hammer needed.
Sy
 
Thanks for that Sy, useful info for me. Haven't tried the Irwin multiconstruction but will look for them.
The Saxton blades i used were the DeWalt substitute diamond tipped tile/grout ones (can't actually find any original DeWalt equivalents) and they did a fine job when able to do so, but the massive nylon spacers killed the game.
Love a scutch chisel, btw!
Listed buildings are a bit of an art though, surely? I have been involved in a few over the years, and it is tricky to find a modern solution to some needs...but great fun too.
I helped out on a renovation in Spain recently, and inadvertently got them to use those quinetic switches...totally changed the game-plan, as no need to raggle the walls and mix just the right mortar to fill in.
Some of the guys were a bit miffed cos their mortar skills weren't required, but the project was finished ahead of time, and with no boxing-in with plasterboard.
The marriage of the old with the new...sometimes the result is just perfect!
 
No worries happy to help! Bosch make some similar ones too but I like the irwin ones as the are 150mm long and seem to last for ages!
Yeah most of the grout type grit edged work well with plaster, I have used old normal blades before on plaster just cut a series of slots in it with a 1mm cutting disk in the grinder. They leave a really crisp edge to the cut and produce minimal dust but only work on plaster.
It takes some skill and patience to do listed buildings and some luck as well. My pet hate is lath and plaster, once disturbed is a bugger to make good!
Got to love a scutch they are much neater IMHO!
All good fun!
All the best
Sy
 
wow thats a new one on me , i suppose everything is available if you look . and its available from tool station so must be a common item ,who new
 
I would suggest the Saxton ones, the diamond tipped ones...they work well in mortar and soft brick. I used them to take out a glass brick wall, and they sliced through the mortar easily...unfortunately, when they encountered the nylon tile spacers they clogged up.
I have recently tried their multi=purpose wide blades, and they are great for general cutting, slicing, back-box cutting etc.
Don't be too precious about blades...pay the price, save the time, fling them away...
Old blades are slow, stutter and fart, go off line, take ages to finish the job...who needs that?
Charge the customer! Buy good blades!
 

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