Replacing Consumer Unit

[Fitzy]

Tomorrow I’m changing my consumer unit in preparation for my NICEIC assessment on 13th November and have a few queries.

Firstly, current cu only has 4 circuits sockets up & down and lights up & down, so hopefully a pretty straight forward swap.

I can unplug 95% of loads on both ring finals, except for the oven and the boiler, both of which have LCD/LED displays. So when it comes to doing the insulation resistance test, would the 500v dc test damage either of these appliances LCD’s or LED’s? The oven and hob ignitor are connected behind the kitchen units.

Also, upstairs we have GU10 spot lights on the landing and bathroom, can’t remove them to do the R1+R2 test as they’re very tight and as we only rent, I can’t cause any damage to the ceiling. So would it be ok to just do the R1+R2 on the final light fitting in the rear bedroom or should I try to find the spots wiring in the loft?

 

[SparkyChick]

I can unplug 95% of loads on both ring finals, except for the oven and the boiler, both of which have LCD/LED displays. So when it comes to doing the insulation resistance test, would the 500v dc test damage either of these appliances LCD’s or LED’s? The oven and hob ignitor are connected behind the kitchen units.

If they have isolators, turn them off and run the full suite of tests (L-N, L-E and N-E). If they don't have isolators join L+N at the board and test L+N to E. This is acceptable when making alterations to existing installations. You just put a LIM in the live-live column for IR.

Also, upstairs we have GU10 spot lights on the landing and bathroom, can’t remove them to do the R1+R2 test as they’re very tight and as we only rent, I can’t cause any damage to the ceiling. So would it be ok to just do the R1+R2 on the final light fitting in the rear bedroom or should I try to find the spots wiring in the loft?

Can you access the loft? If so, do the tests from above. It's nice to verify CPC continuity through out, so at the very minimum I would check R2 at each location using a wander lead.

 

[Octopus]

Are you fitting a dual RCD board or a RCBO board?

 

[Fitzy]

Are you fitting a dual RCD board or a RCBO board?

Dual RCD board, current board has NO RCD’s.

 

[telectrix]

if you only have 4 circuits, i'd fit a BG 6 way RCBO board with 4 RCBOs .get gear from TLC the BG compact RCBOs are ony £15.60 inc. vat each.

 

[Silly Sausage]

If they don't have isolators join L+N at the board and test L+N to E. This is acceptable when making alterations to existing installations.

Does that still apply when doing Periodic Inspections?
It's been a while! My most recent Reg books are green.

 

[Fitzy]

If they have isolators, turn them off and run the full suite of tests (L-N, L-E and N-E). If they don't have isolators join L+N at the board and test L+N to E. This is acceptable when making alterations to existing installations. You just put a LIM in the live-live column for IR.

Can you access the loft? If so, do the tests from above. It's nice to verify CPC continuity through out, so at the very minimum I would check R2 at each location using a wander lead.

Unfortunately neither appliance has an isolator, but thanks for the L+N to E tip.

I have access to the loft, but not boarded out, so will have to be extra careful up there.

 

[Fitzy]

if you only have 4 circuits, i'd fit a BG 6 way RCBO board with 4 RCBOs .get gear from TLC the BG compact RCBOs are ony £15.60 inc. vat each.

I’ve already bought an MK 12 module board, which leaves 4 modules for future additions.

 

[Octopus]

Dual RCD board, current board has NO RCD’s.

Rcbo much better

 

[westward10]

Line to Neutral tests in this instance are not that important as already said link them together and 500v to earth you will not damage anything. Assessors understand the limit of what you can do and will not question it.

 

[Fitzy]

Rcbo much better

If I had the money and it was my house, then yes it would’ve been all RCBO’s, but I’m not that generous to my landlord.

 

[telectrix]

why is the landlord not paying for this?

 

[Silly Sausage]

Unfortunately neither appliance has an isolator, but thanks for the L+N to E tip.

How are they connected to the house fixed-wiring then?

 

[Fitzy]

How are they connected to the house fixed-wiring then?

Oven is wired in behind it’s own unit and boiler is wired in to the downstairs rfc somewhere?

 

[Octopus]

Oven is wired in behind it’s own unit and boiler is wired in to the downstairs rfc somewhere?

I would find that if I were you

 

[telectrix]

I would find that if I were you

my days of finding old boilers are well past. i;ll stick with the one i have now. she's 100% loyal and i love her to bits. .

 

[Fitzy]

why is the landlord not paying for this?

Because there’s nothing wrong with current consumer unit, so to get his permission I’m doing it & paying for it myself.

 

[ackbarthestar]

A couple of anomilies here
1. IMO its not your responsibility to change the CU. If I was the Landlord I'd be hopping as its unlikely to be part of your initial contract. However, if the landord has given prior permission to upgrade his/her property then fire away. as you will have to use his/her name on the cert.
2. Fixed heating appliances should have local isolation and if connected to a RFC should be by plug and socket or possibly by SFCU/FCU.

 

[Fitzy]

Plus I’m using it for my NICEIC assessment. That’s why I offered to do the swap.

 

[Silly Sausage]

Plus I’m using it for my NICEIC assessment. That’s why I offered to do the swap.

Have you done any testing on the place before you submitted it as your assessment?
Could be a fault ridden minefield!