Rewire Problem

[Ben Lewis]

Good Morning,

I currently have a Honeywell ST699 heating and hot water programmer which I am looking to replace with the Drayton MiGenie.

However I'm having a few issues with it not working and since the swap over cannot get any hot water or central heating (severely in the dog house at home now!)

Could someone please assist with putting this right as I'm currently stumped.

Thanks in advance

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[Ben Lewis]

Apologies for the double post of the images, not sure what I did there

 

[telectrix]

Good Morning,

I currently have a Honeywell ST699 heating and hot water programmer which I am looking to replace with the Drayton MiGenie.

However I'm having a few issues with it not working and since the swap over cannot get any hot water or central heating (severely in the dog house at home now!)

Could someone please assist with putting this right as I'm currently stumped.

Thanks in advance

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View attachment 35149

not enough info. need to know how you've wired it, not just how it should be.

 

[Ben Lewis]

On The MiGenie
From Left To Right

Neutral - Blue
Live - Brown
1 - Blue - Hot Water
2 - Blue - Heating
3 - Brown - Hot Water
4 - Brown - Heating

I wasn't sure if I need a link between terminals live, 1&3

Everything was left the same except for the programmer only

 

[Leesparkykent]

Hi Ben you are showing the drawing for a W-plan. A W-plan is normally hot-water priority and not typical for a normal house. A W-plan is generally used in places that have lots of hot-water requirements so are you sure its a W-plan?

 

[Ben Lewis]

Hi Ben you are showing the drawing for a W-plan. A W-plan is normally hot-water priority and not typical for a normal house. A W-plan is generally used in places that have lots of hot-water requirements so are you sure its a W-plan?

Hi, appreciate your reply being honest I don't know but when reading the manual it said the Honeywell programmer of wired with a link between live, 5 & 8 then it's a W-Plan.

Ive copied the wiring apart from any links from live so I'm not sure if this is what's stopping it all working as I manually applied a live and still nothing happened, I've also linked out the old thermostat and tested that's ok

 

[Octopus]

I'm seriously not interested in talking to you so please be kind enough to mind your own business.
This is a forum where people ask questions or advice for free and 99% of the time solve any queries again for FREE. If everyone charged for advice and resolutions then forums wouldn't exist would they.

Actually the main point of the forum is for active sparks to help fellow sparks.....

 

[Leesparkykent]

Ben just ignore the obtuse comments for a moment and when an administrator is next on line your be moved in to the correct section where only selected members are allowed to post

 

[Ben Lewis]

Ben just ignore the obtuse comments for a moment and when an administrator is next on line your be moved in to the correct section where only selected members are allowed to post

Nice one, thank you.

 

[Leesparkykent]

Thread has now been cleaned up. I would appreciate if it can be kept on topic and if you're not willing to help with any advice just skip on by to the next thread where you can/want to participate

 

[Leesparkykent]

Hi, appreciate your reply being honest I don't know but when reading the manual it said the Honeywell programmer of wired with a link between live, 5 & 8 then it's a W-Plan.

Ive copied the wiring apart from any links from live so I'm not sure if this is what's stopping it all working as I manually applied a live and still nothing happened, I've also linked out the old thermostat and tested that's ok

Can you post a pic of the new programmer wiring?

 

[Ben Lewis]

Currently like this

View attachment 35150

 

[Darkwood]

Actually the main point of the forum is for active sparks to help fellow sparks.....

Sorry but the forum is open to all people of all backgrounds, the forums is here to help with the best advice for any member even if that member is a trainee, DIY or seasoned electrician or even just a member of the public asking a related question, it is not an exclusive club.
We expect our members to respond in a polite and helpful manner even if the advice that they give is that they should call in a competent person, what we don't want to see is new or old members been subject to trolling comments as you have done in this thread so be helpful and constructive with your comments or dont bother posting at all, the manner in which the op has responded to you should give you an idea that your input was not appreciated and yes I understand sometimes we get a certain kind of attitude from those asking advice especially when they dont like what they hear but on this occasion the OP hasn't come across like that IMHO and has just reacted to the manner of your posting so please can we show a little more respect.

 

[Ben Lewis]

This is the old programmers wiring

View attachment 35151

 

[Leesparkykent]

This is the old programmers wiring

View attachment 35151

By the looks of that programmer wiring you possibly have motor open/motor closed valves.

 

[dansk]

looks like you have introduced another wire. your old set up only had one wire for the ch on.

 

[Ben Lewis]

looks like you have introduced another wire. your old set up only had one wire for the ch on.

Yes your right it appears I assumed terminal 4 should be a neutral ! Any ideas on how to wire this up to my new programmer ?

 

[Lucien Nunes]

That was not a neutral, it was a switched line coloured blue! I agree it is unlikely to be W-plan. To completely clarify, it would be necessary to understand what type of motorised valve(s) you have and how they are wired. Nonetheless, if you are 100% confident about which wire came from which terminal in the old unit, it is possible simply to transfer them to the correct terminals in the new. The difference between the two is that the common contact of the CH and HW relays is internally connected to Line in the MiGenie, whereas there were separate terminals (5 & 8) in the Honeywell that had to be linked with wires in the terminals. And of course the terminal numbers are different, they map as follows:
Honeywell (H) -> MiGenie (M)
H3 -> M4
H4 -> M2
H5 n/a
H6 -> M3
H7 -> M1
H8 n/a
If you are not sure which came from where, then you have a much bigger challenge as they will have to be traced out electrically.

 

[Ben Lewis]

That was not a neutral, it was a switched line coloured blue! I agree it is unlikely to be W-plan. To completely clarify, it would be necessary to understand what type of motorised valve(s) you have and how they are wired. Nonetheless, if you are 100% confident about which wire came from which terminal in the old unit, it is possible simply to transfer them to the correct terminals in the new. The difference between the two is that the common contact of the CH and HW relays is internally connected to Line in the MiGenie, whereas there were separate terminals (5 & 8) in the Honeywell that had to be linked with wires in the terminals. And of course the terminal numbers are different, they map as follows:
Honeywell (H) -> MiGenie (M)
H3 -> M4
H4 -> M2
H5 n/a
H6 -> M3
H7 -> M1
H8 n/a
If you are not sure which came from where, then you have a much bigger challenge as they will have to be traced out electrically.

Thank you very much, I do however have nothing wired in H4 so can't put it in M2 unless you meant I need to link live in to M2 ?

 

[Lucien Nunes]

If there was no wire in H4 (CH off) then that strongly suggests that the system is a conventional Y-Plan with a mid-position 3-port valve. Correspondingly, there should be no wire in M2. If that blue was just floating about before, it should be made electrically safe as the situation at its other end isn't known.