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  1. hightower
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    hightower Electrician's Arms

    Location:
    Durham
    In the canteen at work they have an old MK isolation switch which operates a hard wired mixing unit. Both the switch and the mixer will be going to Beamish Museum (Google it) they are that old.

    The isolation switch is next to a sink, as in, 20cm above it, and <5cm to the right of it. Well, not the sink, but the draining board as part of the sink. The tap is a swivel design though, so can rotate to over the draining board.

    There's nowhere else along this wall (it's all windows except for a 12" pillar where the current switch sits) that a socket can be fitted. Anyhow, to the point now.

    They have a new mixer, it plugs in with a 3-pin plug. They wanted this MK isolating switch changing to a socket so they can use it in the same place. I told them I couldn't do it due to the proximity of the sink. They questioned about the switch there and asked how long it had been a rule, and all I could answer with "I don't know, but regardless, I wouldn't want a switch that close to the sink". Probably more so because this is a commercial kitchen, not some tidy old woman in her house.

    So, from my description, do you agree with me? I've told them I can remove the old switch altogether but I would need to fit a socket some other location.
     
  2. LeeH
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    LeeH Insert witty monkey comment here. Electrician's Arms

    Location:
    Lincs
    No specific regulation apart from it has to be appropriate for the environment which a domestic type socket isn't.

    Maybe a ip65/7 isolator and hard wire it or the normal ip67 plug and socket arrangement?
     
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    Last edited: Feb 17, 2017
  3. hightower
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    hightower Electrician's Arms

    Location:
    Durham
    Yeah, good idea. The new mixer is 3-pin so I wouldn't want to remove that but an IP67 socket outlet is a good solution I think.
     
  4. mhar
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    mhar Electrician's Arms

    Location:
    devon
    The 300mm socket rule is a building reg. A part of the idea is so that people can't have a plugged in whatever being knocked into a sink full of water / onto a damp draining board. If this new mixer is a large, heavy, stable item then maybe it's proximity to the sink is not quite so relevant, if it isn't then I am not sure if I would be looking for ways to circumvent what many would regard as sensible guidance
     
  5. hightower
    Offline

    hightower Electrician's Arms

    Location:
    Durham
    The current mixer is a big heavy floor mounted thing, probably of some worth to the right person. The new model is a substantial weight and size, although not floor mounted - they have a table for the new one to sit on next to the drainer. I've just checked again, and the taps aren't swivel. The sink bowl will be >300mm from the socket but it's the drainer side of the sink that is next to it.
     
  6. westward10
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    westward10 In echoed steps I walk across an empty dream. Electrician's Arms

    Location:
    Northamptonshire
    I would go with #3, can't see it being a problem.
     
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  7. HandySparks
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    HandySparks Trusted Advisor

    Location:
    Hampshire
    Business Name:
    Neish Electrical Services
    Either use an IP66 socket, or put an ordinary socket higher up the wall. My view is that if it is more than 500mm above the sink, the risk of splashing would be no greater than anywhere else in the kitchen.
     
  8. Vortigern
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    Vortigern Electrician's Arms

    Location:
    England
    Business Name:
    F.H. Electrical
    How about an RCD socket or RCD spur if you are worried
     
  9. hightower
    Offline

    hightower Electrician's Arms

    Location:
    Durham
    Circuit is already rcd protected
     
  10. hightower
    Offline

    hightower Electrician's Arms

    Location:
    Durham
    Okay, before beginning anything I decided to just double check where it was fed from. None of the modern breakers it turns out, nope, it's fed from this old rewireable DB.

    So now the scenario is to replace an old isolation switch with a socket (which is very near to a sink) that doesn't have RCD protection. The cable is in the wall as previously (I think) mentioned.

    So I suppose the options are:

    A) Change it over with an RCD protected weatherproof socket - I didn't install the cable so I don't need to worry about an RCD to protect that.
    B) Change it over with a non-RCD weatherproof socket, and label it up for use by one specific piece of equipment.
    C) Drop a new circuit in to the newer board with a new RCBO to protect it all.
    D) Something else altogether.

    Option A is going to be least hassle/cost, and I'm pretty sure would be compliant. I'm not keen at all on Option B - no RCD protection especially when so close to a sink. I think Option C would be the best practice way of doing it, but is it overkill and unnecessary for what should be a simple job?

    Appreciate your thoughts fellas.

    View attachment 35592

    View attachment 35593

    View attachment 35594
     
  11. LeeH
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    LeeH Insert witty monkey comment here. Electrician's Arms

    Location:
    Lincs
    'A' seems to be the common sense approach.
     
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  12. hightower
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    hightower Electrician's Arms

    Location:
    Durham
    I think so, but just wanted to make sure there wasn't something I was missing.
     
  13. HandySparks
    Offline

    HandySparks Trusted Advisor

    Location:
    Hampshire
    Business Name:
    Neish Electrical Services
    Probably 'A'.
     
    • Like Like x 1
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