Discuss SWA banjo. in the Industrial Electricians' Talk area at ElectriciansForums.net

What do you do when making a SWA gland off


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Do SWA brass glands come with galv steel locknuts in the UK then?? Ours SWA kits have always come with brass locknuts. Sounds like another UK manufacturers price cutting exercise, and not a very sound one at that!! In that case as you say, an earthing nut is the way to go.

BTW, the earthing nuts we are using are screwed, with a locking grub screw. Are these piranha earth nuts the same??
 
Do SWA brass glands come with galv steel locknuts in the UK then?? Ours SWA kits have always come with brass locknuts. Sounds like another UK manufacturers price cutting exercise, and not a very sound one at that!! In that case as you say, an earthing nut is the way to go.

BTW, the earthing nuts we are using are screwed, with a locking grub screw. Are these piranha earth nuts the same??

here:...

http://www.earthingnuts.co.uk/pdf/fitting_instructions.pdf


they also have teeth on the side that goes to the enclosure so they cut away paint for a good connection.
 
and then there's the issue of glanding into a mild steel enclosure

Not really, so long as the the earth continuity is maintained via the flying earth lead from either the earthing nut or the banjo connection then the metal enclosure is connected via the enclosures earth bar or other earthing provision... The last time i removed the paint from a metal enclose to aid gland contact was years ago, before Banjo's were thought of. As far as i'm concerned you are doing more damage to the integrity of the enclose than anything else...

As for the SWA connection to the brass gland itself, so long as that connection is kept dry, then any detrimental effects with regard to dissimilar metals is minimal. Rarely use the shrouds supplied in the gland kits these days, they rarely fit correctly anyway. We tend to use adhesive lined heat shrink to seal the gland termination, especially on external installs and the like....
 
then the metal enclosure is connected via the enclosures earth bar or other earthing provision..

had a case on a park homes site where the Zdb at 3 homes was >100ohms. fault was that there was no continuity between the metal case and the earthing bar in the enclosure into which the SWA was glanded, even though the earthing bar was bolted to the case. there was no fly lead in this case. fitted a 10mm lead and Zdb came down to <1ohm. ( PME system)
 
Not really, so long as the the earth continuity is maintained via the flying earth lead from either the earthing nut or the banjo connection then the metal enclosure is connected via the enclosures earth bar or other earthing provision... The last time i removed the paint from a metal enclose to aid gland contact was years ago, before Banjo's were thought of. As far as i'm concerned you are doing more damage to the integrity of the enclose than anything else...

As for the SWA connection to the brass gland itself, so long as that connection is kept dry, then any detrimental effects with regard to dissimilar metals is minimal. Rarely use the shrouds supplied in the gland kits these days, they rarely fit correctly anyway. We tend to use adhesive lined heat shrink to seal the gland termination, especially on external installs and the like....
sorry I meant the effect of disimilar metals of the mild steel enclosure and gland, not earthing or steel armouring issues.
The way I see it it's not much different to the use of mild steel locknuts.
 
sorry I meant the effect of disimilar metals of the mild steel enclosure and gland, not earthing or steel armouring issues.
The way I see it it's not much different to the use of mild steel locknuts.

Can't really comment, as i can't say i have used galv locknuts on brass SWA glands. As far as i can comment, is that it all depends on how dry the connection between locknut and gland remains during service...
 
Now for a moan
Don't get me wrong but when I read about the skill required to gland Swa of whatever size,I like probably many others on here make comparison with cable glanding/jointing that we had to carry out and get assessed on as part of our practical exams many moons ago

The cable joints may have been lead sheathed with double wire armouring and take up to 2 hours or so to complete

How many I wonder (Tony excluded obviously) know about how to wind oil impregnated tape on to the cores and in the correct direction,strip the lead,the armourings would have to be cut to the correct length, cleaned with parrafin or the like,the assembly slow and deliberate

The everyday Swa gland is so very basic in comparison,a scour with an hacksaw.a trim with a stanley and nut a and bolt of whatever takes your fancy
 
Though making off a few of those cables it was a very long time ago, i'll admit i'd probably struggle a bit now. The worst cable i can remember terminating was the double wrapped steel tape cables. Bloody things used to rip your hands/fingers to bits in the process!! lol!!
 
Though making off a few of those cables it was a very long time ago, i'll admit i'd probably struggle a bit now. The worst cable i can remember terminating was the double wrapped steel tape cables. Bloody things used to rip your hands/fingers to bits in the process!! lol!!

I hated those!

Loved PILC though, shame I don't get to deal with it anymore. The only time I would is jointing to a new length of XLPE.
 

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