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Terrible kitchen install

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stuarth

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Went to do a report on a kitchen install this morning and it was bad from start to finish, badly fitted units, not installed to the plan, badly tiled floor etc
on the electrics the electrician apparently dose not carry a spirit level
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but the thing that worries me is the 16 amp oven wired into a 40amp switch straight back to a 32amp mcb won't the oven flex be rated to 16amps there for a fire risk when its on a 32amp mcb under fault?
 
I had this issue, when we had our new cooker installed recently. Rated at 8.7kW, installing 'engineer' insisted it had to have a 45A 10mm supply, which it did ;). And he then did the final connection in 10mm 6242y.

I put it on my clamp meter the other week, to see what current it does draw (you can have two ovens & a grill on), which is when I found out my clamp meter was u/s. Still reckon it won't draw than no more than 14A
 
Went to do a report on a kitchen install this morning and it was bad from start to finish, badly fitted units, not installed to the plan, badly tiled floor etc
on the electrics the electrician apparently dose not carry a spirit level
View attachment 41544

but the thing that worries me is the 16 amp oven wired into a 40amp switch straight back to a 32amp mcb won't the oven flex be rated to 16amps there for a fire risk when its on a 32amp mcb under fault?
Can you please post some pictures of the Terrible install? apart from a couple of switches being un level I am struggling to see terrible, a little heath robinson yes, but terrible?
 
No other pictures I am afraid, but if I tell you that the integrated fridge was fitted in such a way that it could be pulled out on top of you with very little effort, the appliance housing is out of level, the side panel has also been pushed inwards by 5mm meaning the doors can not be level, cornice & plinth cut to short, original sink binned and a smaller sink installed because installed the sink unit to close to the wall, wall units installed with out the fillers so the doors are rubbing against the walls, I could carry on but I think you get the idea, if it was my kitchen I would have it re-installed correctly but the customer has had enough and just wants a solution to the main issues.
 
Can you please post some pictures of the Terrible install? apart from a couple of switches being un level I am struggling to see terrible, a little heath robinson yes, but terrible?
mike.notonly are the sockets/switches notlevel,but the 3.5mm fixing screws don't have their slots aligned.that is terrible.
 
No other pictures I am afraid, but if I tell you that the integrated fridge was fitted in such a way that it could be pulled out on top of you with very little effort, the appliance housing is out of level, the side panel has also been pushed inwards by 5mm meaning the doors can not be level, cornice & plinth cut to short, original sink binned and a smaller sink installed because installed the sink unit to close to the wall, wall units installed with out the fillers so the doors are rubbing against the walls, I could carry on but I think you get the idea, if it was my kitchen I would have it re-installed correctly but the customer has had enough and just wants a solution to the main issues.

Next time get the photos put up. We can only imagine how bad it was. Until then we will take your word for it
 
No other pictures I am afraid, but if I tell you that the integrated fridge was fitted in such a way that it could be pulled out on top of you with very little effort, the appliance housing is out of level, the side panel has also been pushed inwards by 5mm meaning the doors can not be level, cornice & plinth cut to short, original sink binned and a smaller sink installed because installed the sink unit to close to the wall, wall units installed with out the fillers so the doors are rubbing against the walls, I could carry on but I think you get the idea, if it was my kitchen I would have it re-installed correctly but the customer has had enough and just wants a solution to the main issues.
Well my advice to to not pay the whole bill, do a snag list and speak to the fitter.
 
Both the fitter and spark have disappeared which is why the company asked me to go and see what needed doing, I will try and remember to take more pictures next week.
 
As said, the connecting 'flex' should have a suitable ccc for the max load of the oven, or whatever the manufacturer recommends.

Edit; Its always a challenge to line up so many faceplates, in one place. I use Home - http://www.spacerconnect.com/index.php/en/, even then, if the back box is not parallel with the finished surface, they can still be out of line. I use a laser level, to try and ensure they are level.
I'm lost to the point of the space connect things (what can they do that 2 brass bushs & a coupler can't?)
 
Oh dear, just a bit cheaper. Saves the planet (storing up plastic, save it being in the sea). Quicker. And it annoys you :D
It doesn't annoy me:p The website with "How it work" on the homepage is annoying though. And a 15mm spacer is bigger that a dual box so would leave a space between the faceplates so they aren't exactly side by side.

How much are they for 1 item?

Wasn't aware they where made from recycled plastic.
 
It doesn't annoy me:p The website with "How it work" on the homepage is annoying though. And a 15mm spacer is bigger that a dual box so would leave a space between the faceplates so they aren't exactly side by side.

How much are they for 1 item?

Wasn't aware they where made from recycled plastic.

The 15mm spacer is for mounting single faceplates side by side (is actually a bit of tight fit). Don't like dual outlet, ones I can get have fixed lugs? I tend to use the 35mm ones, so there is a decorative finish between two adjacent faceplates.

Think they cost about 50p each, probably not a lot cheaper than 20mm coupler & two brass bushes, but just think of such precious resources your saving, and the plastic is in a wall, not in your crisp packet ;)

They are quicker to install.
 
Apart from the aforementioned accessories not being level, oven flex and the 2 pin plug in shaver adaptor....

....What about the double socket with integrated USB charger? That is truly an abomination.

And whatever's sitting on the microwave is blocking the vents.
 
Went to do a report on a kitchen install this morning and it was bad from start to finish, badly fitted units, not installed to the plan, badly tiled floor etc
on the electrics the electrician apparently dose not carry a spirit level
View attachment 41544

but the thing that worries me is the 16 amp oven wired into a 40amp switch straight back to a 32amp mcb won't the oven flex be rated to 16amps there for a fire risk when its on a 32amp mcb under fault?
Its not just the fact that they arnt level that would annoy me its just awful to look at with all those FCU’s. I assume they are for intergrated appliances? Couldnt they have been put into an adjacent cupboard or even in a switch bank above work top?
 
Its not just the fact that they arnt level that would annoy me its just awful to look at with all those FCU’s. I assume they are for intergrated appliances? Couldnt they have been put into an adjacent cupboard or even in a switch bank above work top?
I have to agree, apparently the sparks took out a grid switch setup and plonked all those FCU above worktop when they could have gone below, why? because they get paid for each point so £40 for the machine connection then another £40 for the FCU.
 
I have to agree, apparently the sparks took out a grid switch setup and plonked all those FCU above worktop when they could have gone below, why? because they get paid for each point so £40 for the machine connection then another £40 for the FCU.

If you stick around long enough here, your find some members here feel that's the only way to do it :)
 
If you stick around long enough here, your find some members here feel that's the only way to do it :)
nah, all old hat that FCUs and grid switches. i use wireless appliances . no plugging in. just place in position and programme to connect to wi-fi.
 
Usage of these two types of back boxes below would have resulted in an appearance more pleasant to the eye. Usage of a spirit level or line laser would have ensured a perfect finish. There really is no excuse for such lazy, sloppy workmanship. Whoever did this merits a hard kick in the gonads.
ap 36.png
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The customer gave me the "electricians" Business card with his Facebook page on it, was surprised when I saw who his previous employer was, a well know well respected company who would not be impressed with his workmanship.
 
Usage of these two types of back boxes below would have resulted in an appearance more pleasant to the eye. Usage of a spirit level or line laser would have ensured a perfect finish. There really is no excuse for such lazy, sloppy workmanship. Whoever did this merits a hard kick in the gonads.View attachment 41591 View attachment 41592
Unfortunately, those boxes only work with standard size white switches, etc. The brushed metal ones the OP has are wider than the standard.

As above, some 20mm bushes may be a solution, or just plain care and workpersonship.
 
I always leave a box width between boxes this way it overcomes the issue of the socket plate sizes, allows plastering etc between boxes and if slightly unlevel sometimes not so noticeable. They should have left as grid switch. Hopefully, there is a bit of giving on the K.O. box.
 

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