Discuss Toggle Flick Switch 12V on Table Lamp? in the DIY Electrical Advice area at ElectriciansForums.net

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Hi All, First time poster here. I'm an ex-plumber and lamp making diyer.

My question is this:
Is it safe to wire a lamp like the one here (image 1 below):

with a toggle switch as seen here (image 2 below):

  • Switch type: toggle
  • Contacts configuration: DPST
  • Switching method: ON-OFF
  • AC contacts rating: 10 A / 250 V
  • Leads: M3 screws
1.jpg 2.jpg

I was planning on adding an earth tag to the switch and then the live and neutral in and out of each side of the toggle switch using crimped terminal rings but as these switches are primarily used for autos/marine I have a niggling in the back of my head that says maybe 220 is too much? The manufacturer says no problem but I'd really like to hear what you guys think.
 
220 what??. tiltle says 12V but the set-up looks 240V. need a bit more info.
 
Sorry, I'm probably saying it wrong. When I say 220 I mean to say the mains in a house. As in, once I wire up the lamp using the 12v switch it will be plugged into a regular house socket for power. Does that make sense?
 
I don’t think a 12v switch is designed for mains voltage.
Find a 230v equivelant toggle switch
 
OP states it’s a 12v switch in the post above mine.
Clarification please OP
 
It’s advertised on that link as a car dash switch... and also mention 12v in the description.
I think they have the specs wrong.

230v switches have a minimum gap between the contacts in the open position. Without that gap, you can get arcing, overheating and possibility of a fire.
 
It’s advertised on that link as a car dash switch... and also mention 12v in the description.
I think they have the specs wrong.

230v switches have a minimum gap between the contacts in the open position. Without that gap, you can get arcing, overheating and possibility of a fire.

See that puts all me twitches and worries with this into words. It just doesn't seem right/safe.
I was also looking at this insulated toggle switch but that would require bypassing the neutral on the switch and going straight to the lampholder. But then the switch isn't isolating the neutral which also seems wrong.
US $4.59 |5Pcs Toggle Switch Black High Quality Black 12MM ON OFF 10A 12VDC 6A 250VAC Latching Electrical Single Switch SPST 2 Terminals-in Switches from Lights & Lighting on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group - https://bit.ly/2GcI2Yx

To be honest, and I'd love to hear if you guys agree, I think I'll bin the idea as I don't think there is a safe toggle switch out there for doing this project
 
I’ve seen equipment rated at 250V used for ELV.
Most common is fuses.
 
See that puts all me twitches and worries with this into words. It just doesn't seem right/safe.
I was also looking at this insulated toggle switch but that would require bypassing the neutral on the switch and going straight to the lampholder. But then the switch isn't isolating the neutral which also seems wrong.
US $4.59 |5Pcs Toggle Switch Black High Quality Black 12MM ON OFF 10A 12VDC 6A 250VAC Latching Electrical Single Switch SPST 2 Terminals-in Switches from Lights & Lighting on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group - https://bit.ly/2GcI2Yx

To be honest, and I'd love to hear if you guys agree, I think I'll bin the idea as I don't think there is a safe toggle switch out there for doing this project
There are plenty of suitable switches around, it's safest to stick with reputable technical suppliers, especially if you're not confident to make a judgement about the reliability of the description. CPC is a useful supplier with a good range, as this catalogue page shows..

CPC Catalogue 2018/2019 - https://www.easyflip.co.uk/CPC_Catalogue/?page=1489

There are other things to beware of when doing DIY lamps, earthing, suitable insulation and flammability ratings are important for safety.
 
Thanks for all the input everyone. I think I'll stick to more basic inline switches for now. All the best!
 

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