Trouble lining up 4x sockets on glass splash back

[silentboarder69]

Hi guys,
I'm hoping someone has got an idea for me! I've got four accessories to line up on a glass splash back, all flat plate metal finish. There's 1x cooker (dble), two SFCU (sngles) and a double socket.
I bought three of the brackets that join metal back boxes together, and they are all nice and straight, but there's a 1mm gap in between the plates. And as the splash back is glass, I can't push the plates together and tighten the screws. The customer is obviously the fussiest person on Earth, and I need to loose the gaps. Anyone got any secret tip?
The wall is crumbly brick, so hard to get the screws exactly where you want them. Ideally I don't want to remove the glass splash back. Although, push comes to shove this is an option.

Rick

 

[Rockingit]

You might find that you've still got that 1mm gap when fitting the plates direct onto the back boxes WITHOUT the glass in the way - it's just manufacturing tolerance of .5mm either side of the screws when you think about it. Level, straight and even may be as much as you can achieve.

If it's those flush, flat, screwless front plate pieces of junk that I hate and tell customers to avoid like the plague, I'm out of here!!!

 

[Deleted member 19807]

tell them the gap is needed for themal expansion as if they were butted up tight and they expanded due to the heat in a kitchen they may buckle and crack the glass splash back.

 

[silentboarder69]

A good suggestion, and one I'll use in the future! Unfortunately this is for a builder who's been contracted by an agent who has the most ---- customer.
I think I've nearly got them now though, ****ed at the extra two or three hours work for no fee though!

 

[benji]

would it be possible to mask round slots in glass and spray inside mat black

 

[needasparks]

iv'e only had to do glass splashbacks twice so far and the tip i was given was to chase the box deeper than normal, is means longer screws are used but gives you more up, down & sideways movement to line up. could an option be to remove fixing screws to the brick and use a tube of gripfill to get the boxes bang on where you need them.

 

[electromonkey]

I may have misunderstood but here's a trick I've learnt for when you have multiple fittings side by side on solid walls. Chase a section out that is deep enough to sink a back box in to. Then, around the edge of your chase, chase a lip around it that allows you to fix plaster board to it. You can then fit dry line boxes in to it which as I'm sure you know, are super easy to get nice and straight.

 

[needasparks]

Is it not glass, so you will see the side lugs.

 

[egginyourface]

Heres something some one once told me but havent had a chance to use it yet.

Using your long level draw the perfect straight line, then draw out the metal back boxes and draw out the holes you will be using to fix boxes.

Then you drill the holes for fixing the back back boxes with a long 5.5mm drill bit.

Stick the wall plugs in deep as possible. Begin chasing the back boxes as you get deeper push the raw plugs in.

When its time to fix back boxes you'll find holes line up perfectly as well as the back boxes

 

[silentboarder69]

Some good tips, thanks guys!

 

[Deleted member 9648]

You have to check the spacing of the holes on the accessories you intend to fit and fix your boxes according to that,not all accessories are the same size,so using a manufactured spacer between boxes may well result in a gap,or worse ...boxes too close togehter.

 

[Kiers1970]

I had to line up seven or so accessory boxes, chased the wall very deep,, fitted a batten across, mark it level, spaced boxes with couplings and bushes, was very pleased with end result. Not applicable here, but you get my drift!