Discuss Upgrading domestic supply (60A to 80 or 100A) in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

SJD

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For SSE DNO area, if a customer was to request an upgrade of supply from 60A to 80A (or 100A), does anyone know if SSE normally make a charge for doing this?

Background: TN-S supply (Ze = 0.27 Ohm), late 1960's Bakelite-looking head which appears in good condition, mixture of 16 and 25mm2 tails, originally fed an old Wylex fuseboard rated at 60A, now feeds a new Wylex dual-RCD CU with 100A main switch. Property has an electric shower, electric oven, some electric heating, max demand is way over 60A.

If the supply cable is capable of 80 or 100A, it is maybe just a case of SSE changing the fuse?
 
Have to say that what you've described wouldn't bother me at all only being on a 60A incomer. Ask yourself this simple question: How many times has the fuse blown before you made this 'discovery'?
 
Spoke to SSE recently regarding this on my own property.
They want paperwork filed and details of welders, air con, compressors etc on site (as they can cause issues with surrounding properties and their supplies)
Also it depends on how much headroom the substation has, if its running maxed out, you might have buckleys chance.
Told price depends on the situation on the ground, could be £80-£100, could be ten times that....
 
I doubt that the actual max load will b much over 45 amps....

I measured the load with a clamp meter while the owner switched a few things on. There's a lot of things always on (3 freezers, fridge, PCs, etc). With the oven warming up, someone in the 35A shower, the lodger's 12A heater and the kettle on, the current was up to 80A, and we weren't really trying.
 
SSE PD (power distribution) are the guys you need to talk to regarding this. Rather than SSE
In years gone by they used to just swap the fuse but now they are getting big on ensuring the new demand won't overload something or that loads don't creep up over the years without allowances being made for the increased demand.
 
I measured the load with a clamp meter while the owner switched a few things on. There's a lot of things always on (3 freezers, fridge, PCs, etc). With the oven warming up, someone in the 35A shower, the lodger's 12A heater and the kettle on, the current was up to 80A, and we weren't really trying.

You didn't answer the question, has the DNO fuse been taken out with this normal usage?? Apart from the heater maybe, none of those appliances will be drawing current for any length of time or being switched off and on thermostatically, So that 80A is not a realistic figure. The proof is in the pudding as they say, if the DNO fuse isn't popping on a regular basis, then you don't have a problem!!
 
I measured the load with a clamp meter while the owner switched a few things on. There's a lot of things always on (3 freezers, fridge, PCs, etc). With the oven warming up, someone in the 35A shower, the lodger's 12A heater and the kettle on, the current was up to 80A, and we weren't really trying.

So the Oven, shower and kettle are on 24/7 there is a thing called diversity and I am not talking about the dance group
 
I know the 80A was somewhat artificial (yes, I know about diversity), and indeed the installation has operated for some years without blowing a fuse. The customer (who is somewhat technical) asked about whether it is was now sufficient.

If the DNO would change it for free, the customer would like a bigger fuse - hence my original post.
 
Engineer 54 , can you tell me do supply companies fuse at there end? I don't know if it's straight off transformer..


Of course they fuse at their end, depending on the size of network distribution cable, and what the cable is supplying, but for residential areas it will generally be anything from 200A to 400A ....It would be rather foolish of them to come directly off the transformer now wouldn't it!! lol!!
 
We're talking about fuses on the MV or LV side, here?
 

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