What about the sealing then?

[the pict]

What are you chaps using for intumescent seal and chafe prevention on rear entry consumer units where the big oval hole(s) have been knocked out
Pict

 

[Rpa07]

Too many euphemisms for this forum - I can see @SWD having a little dance right about now!

 

[Octopus]

Nothing ................

 

[Pete999]

Just make sure you install the cables correctly, ensure correct terminations etc, who needs intumescent sealing?

 

[Octopus]

Nothing ................

Not sure why that is funny ..... no IP ratings on the rear face of a cu

 

[streamer]

I put grommet strip around the large knock outs but no sealant.

 

[MFS Electrical]

I go a bit overboard to be honest the building regs can be quite tight round our way with preventing the spread of fire so I usually mount the board on a bit of pink gyproc and make the hole coming in through the gyproc as small as possible then fill in between and around the cables with intumescent sealant I stick grommet strip round the edge of the knockout but that’s pointless as the cables will never be able to meet the edge of the knockout.

 

[suffolkspark]

I went on a seminar when metal boards came out, representatives from the IET were sat at the front and said its not required, if the hole isnt almost full of cables ill seal, but otherwise i leave them

 

[Leesparkykent]

Hager boards and these VM02CE - Hager VM02CE Cable Protection Entry Plate Red Insulated for Consumer Units - https://www.sparksdirect.co.uk/hager-vm02ce-cable-protection-entry-plate-red-insulated-for-consumer-units#.W8zRFRYo_YU

The grommet strip supplied with Hager boards is rubbish IMO. If being mounted on a bit of wood I usually just make the hole in the wood smaller than the rear knockout.

 

[Toneyz]

The risk is the spread of fire through the rear of the C.U. and what it is mounted onto eg non- combustible - wet plastered wall, pink plasterboard or plasterboard with a timed fire resistance.

 

[sparkdog]

Sounds like a job for Wallace & Grommet.

 

[Midwest]

I use Wallace & Grommet on the rear knockouts. I like to use manufactures spacers, if the CU needs spacing off the wall.

 

[GBDamo]

I put grommet strip around the large knock outs but no sealant.

I use the supplied strip but tape it in place, trying to relocate it after if it comes away is a right PITA.

No sealant though, for reasons previously stated.

 

[buzzlightyear]

I use lock brass locking nuts from behind the board and bring the cables from behind so there less chance of any cable being damaged .
And try and seal it.i have tried the grommet job that keeps coming when you pull the cables through.

 

[Midwest]

I use the supplied strip but tape it in place, trying to relocate it after if it comes away is a right PITA.

Super glue the grommet strip in place helps, do the day before.

 

[cprfenom]

I use toilet paper as most client have some laying about! Don't waste tour time on triple ply though as its too thick to scrunch up tight.

 

[sparkdog]

Tried that but couldn't get it flush.

 

[johnduffell]

I usually just make the hole in the wood smaller than the rear knockout.

Ironically that would be making the wood part of the enclosure, and as we know wood is not non combustible, although i can't imagine a time when you'd have to defend that in court!

 

[Leesparkykent]

Ironically that would be making the wood part of the enclosure, and as we know wood is not non combustible, although i can't imagine a time when you'd have to defend that in court!

Where does it mention that? I just can’t see it...if the cables were rear entry on a stud wall does that mean the whole Wall is now part of the enclosure?

 

[johnduffell]

Where does it mention that? I just can’t see it...if the cables were rear entry on a stud wall does that mean the whole Wall is now part of the enclosure?

Good question, where do you drawer the line indeed! That was kind of my point, obviously i don't really think your way is a problem, but how about if we knocked out the whole back of the cu and mounted on timber? Still meets ip rating and the cu itself is non combustible but most of the back is going to burn nicely.