What backbox in Kingspan backed plasterboards.

[Amp David]

When walls are going to be dot and dabbed with the insulated plasterboard, what type of backbox is mostly used.

I was thinking of running my cables in as normal to position of sockets and switches, covering with capping/clipping to the masonary. Then if plasterer/builder bring the cable through and skim, then i'll cut out an fix in drylining boxes.

The kingspan boards have 50mm of insulation on them.

 

[ezzzekiel]

usually a wood lat with backbox screwed to it, unless dryline is easily fitted - it matters not

 

[HRL]

I clip direct and cap, through to a metal clad box, plugged and screwed direct whichever depth is best suited and then providing the dryliners are good, hey presto...

 

[Amp David]

Thought abot fitting the backboxes after dot and dab as if they get fitted to the wall, when its time to fit sockets etc, the boxes will be 2 inches deep in the wall.

 

[JUD]

Deeper backbox and longer screws

1 Gang 47mm KO Flush Box

Plate Screws - M3.5 25mm to 75mm

If you want to bring the backbox flush, try packing it out behind before screwing it to the wall. I usually use a piece of plasterboard.

 

[HRL]

it sounds like a whole lot of messing around but you get a really good finish, well worth it,

 

[rocker]

Talk to your spreads or your gaffer to find out exactly where the walls are going, depths etc.
Fix knock out boxes straight to the wall, or on a bit of battening if the void is going to be deep.
Use 50s or 75s when it's time to 2nd fix, a nice long screw also gives you plenty of scope to level up.

OR

If your spreads are like the ones round 'ere i.e. shouldn't be let loose with a trowel - just accurately measure where your cables are, don't even bother asking them to help, when they're done cut your holes with your jab saw, fish out your cables with an old coat hanger and use dry liners.

EDIT: just realised I'm only replying as if the existing walls are being drylined to dress them. If they are new stud walls, try and get in when one side of plasterboard is on, but not the other, then repeat as above. Or, again, jab saw and dryline box.

 

[vambo]

3 options here...
batton off a metal clad box - a peice of timber screwd to wall then your standard back box fitted to that
use a deeper back box- eg a cooker isolation backbox
use a drylining box- not so good with flat-plate sockets i've found though

 

[Gravid]

Yeah agreed, option 1 or 2, always find dryliners look a bit crappy round the edges from side on.