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ohit1

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Hi all,
I ripped out a pair of under kitchen cabinet lights which were rubbish. They were 12v G12-bulb fixtures.
I isolated the wiring pair that fed them - as attached in the photo. This pair is "live" as indicated by a beeping pen tester I have.
I assume there is a transformer behind the kitchen cabinets. I don't want to remove the cabinets.
How do I use a multimeter to work out what output current the transformer is producing?

My assumption is I could re-purpose this wiring feed for a different set of lights - What other options are there that avoid taking out the kitchen cabinets?

TIA

What is the transformer's output with a multimeter IMG_20170902_130020 - EletriciansForums.net
 
You can't measure the output it has to be read off the transformer. Have you checked on top of your kitchen cupboards?
 
Can you post a picture of the fitting you removed.

If its the type I suspect the actual fittings are notorious for being unreliable ........... which isn't too helpful.

What you really need to do is access the transformer(s) to determine their output values....

Sorry if this doesn't help much
 
You can't test the maximum rated output current with a multimeter, you could only test the voltage.

Well actually you could test the maximum current by increasing the load until the transformer fails, then the maximum current would be just below that at which it failed.
But then your transformer won't work anymore, and might have set your kitchen on fire.
 
Have you checked on top of your kitchen cupboards?
I had not - how silly of me!
I have now and the transformer is there, this model: 12V transformer 20W - 60W dimmable - http://www.saxbylighting.com/products/product-detail/et60r-12v-transformer

Thank you!

This discovery now makes things interesting: I could remove all the transformer stuff, take the AC feed and use the routed cables already under the cabinet to install some other lights. Or something - my mind is now whizzing with ideas.

If it helps further: Previously, the old 12V lights were switched at the entrance of the kitchen. I removed that dual-switch for a single one (for just the ceiling lights). I could easily revert this, but hoping to avoid that and just switch any new lights I install either with a switch by the cabinets itself or light-integrated PIR.

What's a great installation for under kitchen-cabinet lights assuming no limitations now on the wiring front?
 
What's a great installation for under kitchen-cabinet lights assuming no limitations now on the wiring front?

12V LED strip lights. cut to length. self adhesive so just stick on.

 
What's a great installation for under kitchen-cabinet lights assuming no limitations now on the wiring front?

12V LED strip lights. cut to length. self adhesive so just stick on.

Yuk, especially when they start falling off.

Before you do anything you need too check to see if the cable behind the cabinet can be moved or replaced.
 
12V LED strip lights. cut to length

A few guys at work have fitted these and like them. Just don't rely on the adhesive for fitting them. Use additional fixings.
 
Before you do anything you need too check to see if the cable behind the cabinet can be moved or replaced.
I can see how the cables are routed behind the cabinets. Don't think it will be straight forward to replace them without removing the corner kitchen cabinet (which I don't want to do).

Now that I've located the transformer and junction boxes etc. (all above the cabinet) - Why would I need to replace those cables anyway?
 
If you intend to use the existing cables but now bypass the transformer and use mains voltage, bear in mind that from the photo they look like 2 core flex so have no earth conductor in them.
 
I can see how the cables are routed behind the cabinets. Don't think it will be straight forward to replace them without removing the corner kitchen cabinet (which I don't want to do).

Now that I've located the transformer and junction boxes etc. (all above the cabinet) - Why would I need to replace those cables anyway?

If you can't replace the cables then you can't have 230 units ... Below
 
wall cupboards come off easily. usually just hooked on brackets that Kevin Kitchen has managed to fix to the wall without drilling cables. some brackets actually have more than 1 screw holding them to the wall.
 
Thanks guys

Those LED/SMD strip lights look cool, and they mean I can keep the existing cabling and new transformer at the top too.

What sort of switching could/should I do?

* Re-wire in the 2nd switch near the kitchen entrance
* Some kind of PIR? How? Which one?
* Small switch under cabinet on the 12v DC side?
* Any other ideas?
 

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