What power rating would this garage door be?

[HappyHippyDad]

That looks very naughty! It's tying the two circuits together and could make the plug live. Where you have a DP switch, replace with one SPST relay with 230V AC coil and 5A rated contacts. Connect the coil to the 'lamp output' from the door opener, and the contacts between the two SL's (lamp direct and via sensor) No wiring alterations needed. Observe electrical separation between the coil circuit and the contacts.

The door opener will however only energise the light when the PIR sensor is also enabled at the 2g switch. If you want the opener to have independent control of the light, you will need to get a PL to the relay from the 2g switch, I don't know if that's adjacent or distant. Optionally bypass the DP switch and put the relay adjacent to the 2g switch.

Could it definitely?
The only time the light comes on from the control panel is when the garage door is being opened. So at this point the PL in the control panel makes continuity with the SL of the light in the panel, like a switch. However if the plug was removed then the door could not be opened, therefor the control panel would not make the connection between Pl and SL. If the light was then switched on manually would its pathway not just end at the SL in the panel?

Although if the door was already opened and the plug was then removed would there still be contact between PL and SL in the panel?

 

[HappyHippyDad]

Just thinking. Why not just remove the light circuit supply and pick up from the dp switch? 3 wires to the override and sensor if no neutral required.

But there is only a light circuit supply to the DP switch? The only connection the DP switch has with the panel is the SL and N for the light output.

 

[ipf]

But there is only a light circuit supply to the DP switch? The only connection the DP switch has with the panel is the SL and N for the light output.

Yes, fair enough....it's Saturday tea time and I'm half asleep ….and only getting a fuzzy picture of that drawing.