Which route would you take here for trunking at CU?

[Iain Kay]

I've been looking at a route to run mini trunking (16x25) from CU to a cupboard and from there on to another room.

Got most of the route planned in terms of getting from the room to the cupboard and from the cupboard to hall ceiling.

Now I'm looking at options to get from the ceiling down to the CU.

Is there any issue with running trunking down the pink route shown below?

Or would the green be a better option to go with, albeit less tidy looking as it would have to go over the doorframe.

 

[suffolkspark]

Why not follow pink route then go behind the board and into rear entry of ccu?

 

[Wilko]

Hi - this a decision for the Electrician who will be responsible for the new circuit you are thinking of, surely?

 

[Adam W]

I'd probably go for the pink route behind the board but go straight up to the top of the wall instead if tucking in behind the service cable.

 

[Pete999]

I've been looking at a route to run mini trunking (16x25) from CU to a cupboard and from there on to another room.

Got most of the route planned in terms of getting from the room to the cupboard and from the cupboard to hall ceiling.

Now I'm looking at options to get from the ceiling down to the CU.

Is there any issue with running trunking down the pink route shown below?

Or would the green be a better option to go with, albeit less tidy looking as it would have to go over the doorframe.

Whichever route you opt for, you will need to change planes to rise up from the wall to the timber backing board, personally I would take suffolkspark suggestion.

 

[Octopus]

In a previous thread you stated this is a rented flat ..... What does the landlord say about you making changes....

 

[Deleted member 26818]

Those backing boards look like they may be fixed flat to the wall?

 

[Gavin John Hyde]

Not sure if you have the skills or experience of using round conduit and installing the various bends or not? as some people just buy the bends ready made.
Given the the raised profile of the board I would use a nice piece of round conduit with a female adaptor in the cu casing, using a offset bend to account for the difference between wall and board and then take it upto ceiling inserting a 90 degree bend following the pink line on the image. could feed round conduit through the wall or ceiling to the next point where it then goes to trunking or however its to be installed. The round conduit would look nice with an offset it also shows some pride in your work.
An inexpensive way but takes a little longer, however end result is it looks like some effort has been put in when it has been done properly.

 

[telectrix]

minitrunk down to the top board with the cut-out onit, then behind the woodworkand back entry (ooh, matron) into the CU

 

[Fitzy]

In a previous thread you stated this is a rented flat ..... What does the landlord say about you making changes....

Murdoch, The op is the landlord.

 

[Toneyz]

Pink line down and behind the board.

 

[Pete999]

Not sure if you have the skills or experience of using round conduit and installing the various bends or not? as some people just buy the bends ready made.
Given the the raised profile of the board I would use a nice piece of round conduit with a female adaptor in the cu casing, using a offset bend to account for the difference between wall and board and then take it upto ceiling inserting a 90 degree bend following the pink line on the image. could feed round conduit through the wall or ceiling to the next point where it then goes to trunking or however its to be installed. The round conduit would look nice with an offset it also shows some pride in your work.
An inexpensive way but takes a little longer, however end result is it looks like some effort has been put in when it has been done properly.

Don't know what cable is being used, assuming its TandE, wouldn't like to try and feed that down a bit of 20mm PVC tube with manufactured bends as well as offsets. Nice idea, but I'll take Tel's method any day.

 

[Toneyz]

Don't know what cable is being used, assuming its TandE, wouldn't like to try and feed that down a bit of 20mm PVC tube with manufactured bends as well as offsets. Nice idea, but I'll take Tel's method any day.

Mini Trunking as the op said.

 

[Octopus]

Murdoch, The op is the landlord.

Sure about that ? He previously stated he had to get the paperwork from the letting agent ..................... as the landlord he would already have had that surely ...

 

[Iain Kay]

I'm not the LL but I've been given the agents go ahead pending landlord giving the OK, so I'm looking into the design for this run.

As I'm studying, I certainly want the experience of designing and running the circuit up to the point of actually terminating it in CU and sockets. This last part will either be done by qualified sparks or under supervision of qualified sparks. If they'll let me, I'm confident to do the works in full.

(Note: Trunking will be left open for visual inspection.)

I've got a -lot- of 16x25mm plastic mini trunking so making use of this would be best I think, plus there's already mini trunking installed throughout the property for the smoke alarms so it would not look out of place.

As noted in my other thread, the sparks are willing to do the job with me labour and testing only for £120 all in.

I'll be supplying trunking, appropriate cable (thinking 4mm T&E for 20A radials run through the trunking but I've not completed all my maths there so take this with a pinch of salt) and MCBs.

The sparks will be checking over my design but I wanted it to be as best as it could be before sending it over and thought well why not get some pros experience on which route to take.

The wood broad is flush with the wall so there's no cable going behind it without removing it, and I'm not keen to make any major modifications, just add a nice easy run of trunking.

This may need to be removed when I leave the property so I certainly want that part to be pretty easy with, again, just a quick sparks visit to deal with the disconnection at the CU.

 

[Pete999]

I'm not the LL but I've been given the agents go ahead pending landlord giving the OK, so I'm looking into the design for this run.

As I'm studying, I certainly want the experience of designing and running the circuit up to the point of actually terminating it in CU and sockets. This last part will either be done by qualified sparks or under supervision of qualified sparks. If they'll let me, I'm confident to do the works in full.

(Note: Trunking will be left open for visual inspection.)

I've got a -lot- of 16x25mm plastic mini trunking so making use of this would be best I think, plus there's already mini trunking installed throughout the property for the smoke alarms so it would not look out of place.

As noted in my other thread, the sparks are willing to do the job with me labour and testing only for £120 all in.

I'll be supplying trunking, appropriate cable (thinking 4mm T&E for 20A radials run through the trunking but I've not completed all my maths there so take this with a pinch of salt) and MCBs.

The sparks will be checking over my design but I wanted it to be as best as it could be before sending it over and thought well why not get some pros experience on which route to take.

The wood broad is flush with the wall so there's no cable going behind it without removing it, and I'm not keen to make any major modifications, just add a nice easy run of trunking.

This may need to be removed when I leave the property so I certainly want that part to be pretty easy with, again, just a quick sparks visit to deal with the disconnection at the CU.

What will you be supplying with this new circuit?

 

[Iain Kay]

What will you be supplying with this new circuit?

There will be two circuits, both 20A radials.

The first will terminate in the hallway cupboard and provide power for the tumble dryer and comms cupboard equipment (modems, switches, PoE switches, led lighting to work in, perhaps a number of low voltage devices with transformers, 650W server).

The second will go on from this cupboard through the wall to the master bedroom where it will provide power for up to 5 PCs/servers, and assorted peripherals attached, each with a 1,000W PSU.

When the PCs are fully loaded the PSU can actually be pulling 1,200W from the wall as measured with a plug in device.

The plan is to have these high usage appliances off the main ring final circuit leaving it for the rest of the household use.

This plan should suffice for me until I leave here to purchase a place.

 

[Pete999]

There will be two circuits, both 20A radials.

The first will terminate in the hallway cupboard and provide power for the tumble dryer and comms cupboard equipment (modems, switches, PoE switches, led lighting to work in, perhaps a number of low voltage devices with transformers, 650W server).

The second will go on from this cupboard through the wall to the master bedroom where it will provide power for up to 5 PCs/servers, and assorted peripherals attached, each with a 1,000W PSU.

When the PCs are fully loaded the PSU can actually be pulling 1,200W from the wall as measured with a plug in device.

The plan is to have these high usage appliances off the main ring final circuit leaving it for the rest of the household use.

This plan should suffice for me until I leave here to purchase a place.

Really?

 

[ipf]

Are you planning to run two 4mm2 t+e's through a 20x16 trunking?
If you're coming down from the ceiling why not run to the right of the existing fcu and fit an adapt box directly above the timber. Make sure it stands out enough and run down the wood to the cu. No cable joints, just run through the box.

 

[davesparks]

Are you planning to run two 4mm2 t+e's through a 20x16 trunking?
If you're coming down from the ceiling why not run to the right of the existing fcu and fit an adapt box directly above the timber. Make sure it stands out enough and run down the wood to the cu. No cable joints, just run through the box.

What’s the purpose of the adaptable box rather than running the trunking straight down to the CU?