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Advice on safety of new Consumer Unit Install

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Hi all, new to posting but been reading for years.

I inherited a house from my grandmother who passed in 2021, I intend to renovate and rent out, step by step, job by job as money allows.

Getting the property ready to rent has uncovered a fair few jobs needed to bring it out of the 1970's

I knew the electrics needed sorting so found an electrician via Check-a-trade website. He inspected wiring and said I just need an upgrade to the consumer unit. old system was 2 old bakalite cu's on day night mode I think it was called (2 different tariffs for day and night)

So he quoted and installed a single consumer unit dual rcds. 5 original circuits but I told him to disregard the shower as I would be installing a mixer tap shower .

Circuits now are, Cooker, Lights up & Lights Down on same breaker, Sockets Up and Sockets Down on separate breakers (He said their all radial circuits)

Now here comes the question as I don't think its safe.

He has installed the new consumer unit half on and half off the wooden board that the meter and main fuse are on.

Used 1 screw to fix it, the half of the consumer unit hanging off the wooden backing board there is a 30 to 35mm gap behind to the wall.

There is one screw in the bottom left into the board (I know, I took the cover off (I did safely isolate)) The CU is so unstable and wobbly.

He has had to move the CU approx 10 inch down and 14 inch to the right, so he has joined the wires above the ceiling to extend them by using junction boxes (Old bakalite types, so they must have already been there) They are free hanging between the joists under the bedroom floorboards which is just above the CU on the kitchen wall.

CU is installed at top of kitchen wall (2200mm from floor level, approx) so not accessible for kids to pull off wall or anything but it is still very loose.

There is no strip around the rear entry knockout and no fire barrier, just a large knockout with the several wires coming in.

Is this right? Safe? I need a EICR before I rent, will this even pass with those issues?

I can take photos and post them if you can't quite get what I mean.

Thanks in advance, I just want to be prepared in what I say when (if i should) call him back in to put it right.

Now, maybe the thing that should have rang alarm bells is he charged £250, is that too cheap?, I have had a glance on line and seen its usually £400 upwards.

I did as mentioned get him through check-a-trade so thought he would be reputable and everything, ultimately I want to know where I stand before contacting them and him.

thanks for the patience in reading this long winded post.

David
 
Just to add to your question, it may help it may not. I am one of the end terrace of a terrace of 7. We are all on a looped supply, 1 loop comes up my side wall splits to mine then feeds 2 other properties so 3 of the 7 from the incoming loop on my wall, then the remaining 4 in the terrace are looped together on a separate incoming loop on the end of the wall of the other end terrace the other side.

Its a rubber incoming cable with 2 cores. The earthing arrangement has always been like this.


I have also attached a photo of the setup before he came in and installed the new CU
View attachment 98921
The earthing arrangement in this picture is clearly different to the picture posted after the works to replace the CU as there is no earth cable connected in the neutral of the service head, that now begs the question how was the installation earthed previously and that was probably via an earth rod
Looking at some of the other pictures (no insulation on external supply conductors) it clearly indicates that no contact has been made with the DNO by the contractor so it looks like the contractor has taken the creative decision to make the supply TNC-S when this may not be available on the existing supply
I think the contractor needs to answer some questions on this one and it also needs the DNO to be involved before someone is seriously injured
I would also be contacting NAPIT and Check a Trade as it is time these schemes stepped upto the plate and took action against the rogues they approve
 
The earthing arrangement in this picture is clearly different to the picture posted after the works to replace the CU as there is no earth cable connected in the neutral of the service head, that now begs the question how was the installation earthed previously and that was probably via an earth rod
No sign of a VOELCB though which I would expect to see on a TT design of that era, but equally no sign of a supply earth.

Is it possible it relied on the water pipe for a low impedance earth before? Maybe someone remembered when that became a no-no in the reg? I have seen something similar on a property with a likely original installation in the 1940s.
 
This has been a most interesting thread to read.
Maybe someone remembered when that [water pipe as legitimate earth] became a no-no in the reg?
I asked this a while ago on here, and I was told somewhere between 1940 and 1950.

The original concerns in this thread are relatively minor compared the to state of the incoming supply and the very naughty TN conversion (presumably without permission). Main thing is to call the DNO and it should be a high priority job.
 
Update.

Sorry I did not say in my post, but I noticed the incoming supply at the same time as the electrics were done, the electrician who changed the CU was aware of the incoming cables and the state they were in.

I did ring the DNO, Northern Powergrid, I explained on the phone about the cables being bare, they asked me to email pictures (the exact ones I posted on here) within 45 minutes someone came out to look at them, within 2 hours of that, they (DNO) were digging up the garden and replacing it, So it has been replaced.

The old box on the outside wall has gone and there is a new cable coming up the existing pipe and connected into the existing cable which is clipped in the photo horizontally. Have photos if interested!

The property was built 1946, my grandmother had some electric work done in early 1980s (don't know what though) but nothing since then.

When I had the central heating system installed back in March, the electrician who wired the boiler fused spur did mention something along the lines of there is no earth! and mentioned something about a ''PME'' (I could have that wrong), but he said i need the dno to provide an earth.

What he did do is he said he will run a bond which he said is not ideal but better than nothing. After he finished I looked and he ran a 10mm earth bond from the water pipe inlet up the wall capped, through the ceiling, under floor upstairs and down in to old consumer unit, The water never had an earth bond, the property never had gas until March this year.


If you look in the photos of what the electrics were like before the CU install, you can see the temporary earth coming through the ceiling originating from the water pipe.

So from all that I take it the property has never had a connection to earth and possible still doesn't if he has done it incorrectly, do I need to check with the DNO to see if its capable of being run the way he has it?

The guy who installed the CU did bond the gas by piggy backing the bond clamp on the water pipe near by.
 
Update.

Sorry I did not say in my post, but I noticed the incoming supply at the same time as the electrics were done, the electrician who changed the CU was aware of the incoming cables and the state they were in.

I did ring the DNO, Northern Powergrid, I explained on the phone about the cables being bare, they asked me to email pictures (the exact ones I posted on here) within 45 minutes someone came out to look at them, within 2 hours of that, they (DNO) were digging up the garden and replacing it, So it has been replaced.

The old box on the outside wall has gone and there is a new cable coming up the existing pipe and connected into the existing cable which is clipped in the photo horizontally. Have photos if interested!

The property was built 1946, my grandmother had some electric work done in early 1980s (don't know what though) but nothing since then.

When I had the central heating system installed back in March, the electrician who wired the boiler fused spur did mention something along the lines of there is no earth! and mentioned something about a ''PME'' (I could have that wrong), but he said i need the dno to provide an earth.

What he did do is he said he will run a bond which he said is not ideal but better than nothing. After he finished I looked and he ran a 10mm earth bond from the water pipe inlet up the wall capped, through the ceiling, under floor upstairs and down in to old consumer unit, The water never had an earth bond, the property never had gas until March this year.


If you look in the photos of what the electrics were like before the CU install, you can see the temporary earth coming through the ceiling originating from the water pipe.

So from all that I take it the property has never had a connection to earth and possible still doesn't if he has done it incorrectly, do I need to check with the DNO to see if its capable of being run the way he has it?

The guy who installed the CU did bond the gas by piggy backing the bond clamp on the water pipe near by.

Definitely interested in some photos of the new install!

As others have said, it appears that the consumer unit is not the main issue here.

It's likely if they have put a new install in that it is PME capable (which means that an earth could be run as it has been). However, the key is that ONLY the DNO can decide and do that.

It is probably a good idea to contact them again and explain and ask for an earth safety check. They may be able to confirm that the earth is acceptable as it is, and will do it correctly with their labels and an earth terminal.

There are ways to test whether PME is possible/effective, and the electrician may have done that, but it's still not within his remit to decide to change it.

That doesn't make what is in place now unsafe necessarily - though the readings on the certificate will be helpful in deciding that.

It appears that you've been let down by two electricians here.

The first one who did the boiler should have either contacted the DNO themselves or got you to do it, and had them in to see if they could upgrade the earth - at that point I expect they would have noticed the outside cabling and arranged for it to be changed.

The water bonding was necessary as well, so not a waste that he did it, just that it was not an acceptable alternative to a proper main earth. Do you know the if gas has been bonded now too?

The second electrician should not have done anything with the outside cable in that state - they should have called the DNO themselves as an emergency job and waited for it to be fixed before proceeding. They should absolutely not (if they did) have connected the earth up as they did, even if tests suggested that the install was PME.

Now that the new supply is installed, the good news is that it is probably not a huge amount of work to get things into an entirely satisfactory state. It seems like what you need is a competent electrician to oversee ensuring everything is as it should be - and maybe the one who does the EICR could be that.

I would find a few from the NAPIT or NICEIC site that are rated to do EICRs, and contact them for a discussion/quote, but explain the situation. You sound like you have a good enough grasp of the issues now to be able to spot those who do not give good clear answers as to how they would proceed.

Sadly as you've found, ensuring they have membership is not the guarantee it should be.

Not sure if any of the forum members are close to Bradford and willing to assist, or can recommend someone who is reliable and competent.

It may also be worth contacting NAPIT, I am told they have a rather better approach to maintaining their standards than some, so they may be able to assist. Usually, they ask that you go through a complaints procedure with the electrician first, but in this case, if you show them the pictures (or direct them to this post), they may be willing to take a more proactive approach. If I was a NAPIT member, I might even raise it myself with them as a poor example of the "brand" that I was paying for the privilege of representing.

In terms of price for an EICR, it's not always a good guide - You should be able to get a perfectly good EICR for less than £200. I would avoid national firms who specialise in EICRs as they have a habit of fitting in as many in a day as they could and barely scraping the surface.
 
No sign of a VOELCB though which I would expect to see on a TT design of that era, but equally no sign of a supply earth.

Is it possible it relied on the water pipe for a low impedance earth before? Maybe someone remembered when that became a no-no in the reg? I have seen something similar on a property with a likely original installation in the 1940s.
Hello pc1966.

A metal water pipe was commonly used as the earth with no VOELCB in domestic urban and rural installations until the 14th Edition, 1966. I would guess this was originally one such installation. I would think it should be TT now, but would check with the DNO first.

Regards,

Colin Jenkins.
 
No Surge or Arc offered

Update to some photos here and the paper work he gave me which says it’s an EICR report strangely. So has he done an EICR as well as the CU install

Also a picture of how he left the gas bonding which was behind the kitchen unit, after I pulled the old kitchen out this is what was left

I did find an old bond on the water so the pipe was previously bonded unlike what I thought when I said it was not

Also the photo of the incoming supply after dno changed it in 2 hrs from call which was fast repair, but then again it was really bad and dangerous
B4978D1D-8E79-4883-A910-25D31D81AE0F.jpegD62C7248-798F-4AE7-A837-42559DE0E6FA.jpeg378A7D37-5566-4491-BF2F-829ADBF19A0D.jpeg55BAD1DD-5F34-427A-B650-F5381FABCDB7.jpegCD73B142-A864-4936-BD65-344CE10A37ED.jpegDF2B158B-B3AC-47A6-B872-A5F49F7A273C.jpeg9FBED43F-93B8-44FB-9FA5-41FF195397C2.jpeg245621BD-DAB7-4A39-9373-9EBC96EF5AAC.jpegEDE7E88D-4982-48C3-9FAF-8276D9C7EA8E.jpeg5A11F6E3-4F82-4710-BB43-54A6746AC02D.jpeg6652FC13-C938-4DA5-A4B5-9ED569F71134.jpeg
 
So I should be contacting him and asking for those 2 certificates?
Every new bit of info is a real twist in this saga!

What you have there in theory is a satisfactory EICR, which is what you legally need to rent - and which would normally be charged extra.

It's severely lacking in places, and is printed on the most basic of certificates, but I've seen worse on more professional looking certificates too!

There are noticeable errors or ommisions: Bonding to gas and water doesn't seem to be mentioned at all on it, and some of the values on the test sheet are questionable (1000V IR tests?!).

He also seems to be suggesting there is a socket circuit, on a 16A MCB, with 1mm twin and earth, which would be concerning if true, but appears to be a certificate error (order of circuits is wrong too)

More importantly, what he should have given you for the consumer unit change is an Electrical installation Certificate - which would look quite similar, but is specifically for new work, and most importantly a Part P notification certificate, to prove that the work has been notified to the Local Building Control, as is required by law.

You can check yourself for NICEIC or ELECSA members - at NICEIC Online Certification - http://www.checkmynotification.com/, but it doesn't appear to cover NAPIT work.

Not only is the notification a legal requirement, it is also important because it is required when selling a house these days, and not having it can cause complications with the legal process or additional costs.

In general, only the person who did the work can make that notification, so I would certainly chase up the electrician to get the EIC and Part P certificates - If he doesn't come forward with them, then definitely contact NAPIT and follow the procedure.

Whether you want to let him loose to try and correct his issues is up to you, but I'd be tempted to get someone else to sort the mess out properly - which would probably include a more thorough and trustworthy EICR.
 
Every new bit of info is a real twist in this saga!

What you have there in theory is a satisfactory EICR, which is what you legally need to rent - and which would normally be charged extra.

It's severely lacking in places, and is printed on the most basic of certificates, but I've seen worse on more professional looking certificates too!

There are noticeable errors or ommisions: Bonding to gas and water doesn't seem to be mentioned at all on it, and some of the values on the test sheet are questionable (1000V IR tests?!).

He also seems to be suggesting there is a socket circuit, on a 16A MCB, with 1mm twin and earth, which would be concerning if true, but appears to be a certificate error (order of circuits is wrong too)

More importantly, what he should have given you for the consumer unit change is an Electrical installation Certificate - which would look quite similar, but is specifically for new work, and most importantly a Part P notification certificate, to prove that the work has been notified to the Local Building Control, as is required by law.

You can check yourself for NICEIC or ELECSA members - at NICEIC Online Certification - http://www.checkmynotification.com/, but it doesn't appear to cover NAPIT work.

Not only is the notification a legal requirement, it is also important because it is required when selling a house these days, and not having it can cause complications with the legal process or additional costs.

In general, only the person who did the work can make that notification, so I would certainly chase up the electrician to get the EIC and Part P certificates - If he doesn't come forward with them, then definitely contact NAPIT and follow the procedure.

Whether you want to let him loose to try and correct his issues is up to you, but I'd be tempted to get someone else to sort the mess out properly - which would probably include a more thorough and trustworthy EICR.

Thank you everyone who has chipped in, and thank you dartlec,

I have send an email and text to the electrician re the Part P and EIC and why I have a EICR instead and why he has it down as 1mm T&E on the socket circuit, and the failure to mention the bonding etc etc etc, I will report back on his response if any.

As for getting it all sorted, I don't trust him coming in now and will need to get another spark in. Only issue is, I inherited the house and its stuck in the 80's so am doing as much work on it myself whilst been partially disabled, kitchen rip out, decorating, even going to try my hand at patch plastering (oh dear please cross your fingers for me on that one)

So not a lot of money to go around and will have to wait till I save a little bit more up.

I obviously thought I would leave the dangerous stuff to the correctly qualified people ie Electrical, and central heating install (I managed to get a grant for the central heating install and the NEW connection to the gas network)

I even thought I was doing it right this time instead of putting an on FB or elsewhere for a sparky I thought I would do it properly and go through Check-a-trade thinking surely nothing can go wrong they're on check-a-trade and thats how I contacted them through that.


Whilst typing this, Sorry for long winded replys, the sparky has replied and I quote verbatim ""Yes ur right, send me a snapshot of the certificate I sent you its obvo wrong and do you need a EICR doing?"""" is this the point I insert (..sic)
 
He's put the install as TN-S. TN-S would mean the earth is done through the sheathing of the supply cable. What he's attempted to do with the earth would make it a TNC-S.

That work is absolute cack and you're going to have to pay someone else to put it right. I wouldn't have the same guy back to try and remedy it.
 
He's put the install as TN-S. TN-S would mean the earth is done through the sheathing of the supply cable. What he's attempted to do with the earth would make it a TNC-S.

That work is absolute cack and you're going to have to pay someone else to put it right. I wouldn't have the same guy back to try and remedy it.

Thant's what I am dreading.

I thought I was doing it right going through check-a-trade so I didnt have these issues. Now it might cost more to put it right when I thought I was making it safe originally by getting the old system changed by what I thought was a reputable/accredited electrician.

I might contact check-a-trade with all the evidence from the photos and from what the great folks on this forum have told me as I think they have a scheme to put things right if it goes wrong, but I think they require me to allow the original to attempt to put it right first.
I will feel awkward and embarrased (even though I shouldn't) if he comes back after I have complained, thats why I don't like to complain much. (apart from behind a keyboard ha ha ha)

Before that, I'll try get the floorboards back up this evening or tomorrow and take some pictures of the 'floating' junction boxes, I'll isolate the supply and open the JBs to see what the connection are like and photograph.
 
It's a shame you've been let down like this, it makes the trade look bad. DIY work is often much better than the mess you have there.

Be interesting to see those junction boxes he has done.

To be honest I couldn’t wait any longer myself so I’ve just nipped round to the house and pulled the floorboards (by hand) as he didn’t re fit them properly and to be honest I didn’t think it could get any worse

He had to extend the cables as they would not reach so everything your about to see is what he has done. They may be the original JBs but he has re used them and, Well. Here you go. Have a look

One of the JBs I couldn’t open because it’s so tort to the ceiling/floor plasterboard that there is no play to twist it enough to open the screw let alone move it. And this is how I found it so nothing secured all floating with bare circuits (al be it a dead old shower 6mm (doesn't look like 10mm, maybe 6mm so probably better i didnt have him re-connect it as it was running an 8.5kw shower). I asked him not to reconnect as we’re removing it for mixer shower off boiler)

I’m pretty upset to be honest. I know it was only £250 but I thought it would be done to at least a basic standard. I could have done that better if I was allowed, I’m not and he is and he has certificates telling people he is allowed to install that and why oh why oh why. Any way. Any Thoughts on the JBs?? (I say sarcastically), He couldn't even put any sleeving on the bare cpc's.

I did safely isolate before opening the JBs

426BC3FC-3FC3-4D69-8FFC-B852EF992C9A.jpeg9BCA2C98-5B95-46BB-8078-113D86DB4EDA.jpegA855C628-E391-458F-8A8A-BA062E8A0BF1.jpegA03DE444-02B6-4A0E-B620-454A8CA3EADD.jpeg1DDC5B2B-0C7C-4677-B63E-A97F11CCBEB6.jpeg1F7BF52B-F5FB-4F0D-A440-18DC18E520AD.jpegFA4DD7EB-DB5C-428B-B4C8-9FDEF5E60ACC.jpeg18485FE6-3947-47EA-BF58-12A3E76278CE.jpegA0BCFBE3-356E-4C0F-A544-4E3915513D53.jpegCED09FC7-58E0-4FAF-B577-F02B8B5BF574.jpeg0FB893A4-33A6-4868-BC4C-C1AD1C5C1EDC.jpegF150D77D-7258-4D9E-ADB6-A130484C1426.jpegE6FFB503-FB53-4470-A880-4B0831B65222.jpeg9F2C68AD-2829-4A91-91C2-392637378497.jpeg91FFB665-F234-4176-9403-CFEA0C5A08B0.jpeg
 
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I know, its gone past shocking and got to upsetting now.

So should I just go through check-a-trade complaint system, or should I give him the opportunity to put it right? Or just save up for someone else to put it right?

I’m all for giving someone the chance to put something right, but he’s knowingly done that shoddy work and then issued the wrong type of certificate, that’s been hand written so it’s harder to trace back to him.

Now, that in my eyes is very deceitful. He could have quite easily used NAPIT Online to issue the correct cert and notify LABC, but he chose not to because he didn’t want to take the chance of his scheme providers seeing what he’d done.

EDIT, I think at the very least you need to have a chat with him though and ask some questions.
 
To be honest I couldn’t wait any longer myself so I’ve just nipped round to the house and pulled the floorboards (by hand) as he didn’t re fit them properly and to be honest I didn’t think it could get any worse

He had to extend the cables as they would not reach so everything your about to see is what he has done. They may be the original JBs but he has re used them and, Well. Here you go. Have a look

One of the JBs I couldn’t open because it’s so tort to the ceiling/floor plasterboard that there is no play to twist it enough to open the screw let alone move it. And this is how I found it so nothing secured all floating with bare circuits (al be it a dead old shower 6mm (doesn't look like 10mm, maybe 6mm so probably better i didnt have him re-connect it as it was running an 8.5kw shower). I asked him not to reconnect as we’re removing it for mixer shower off boiler)

I’m pretty upset to be honest. I know it was only £250 but I thought it would be done to at least a basic standard. I could have done that better if I was allowed, I’m not and he is and he has certificates telling people he is allowed to install that and why oh why oh why. Any way. Any Thoughts on the JBs?? (I say sarcastically), He couldn't even put any sleeving on the bare cpc's.

I did safely isolate before opening the JBs

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it's not clear exactly which bits he extended in that mess - any new cabling he added would be in the new colours surely? (perhaps I'm assuming too much!).

Any junction boxes that he worked on that were going under the floor should have been in Maintenance Free junction boxes - and to be honest it's so much easier to do things in Wago boxes with Wago connectors in any case that I have no idea why anyone would do anything else these days.

I assume the broken JB with the 6mm in is currently isolated completely at the consumer unit, not just turned off at an MCB? Surely that new cable (brown/blue) was not put in and left by him like that? :eek:

If it's not needed then it should be cut off or removed from that junction box so that it can't be reconnected by error in future...

JBs under the floor like this should always be mentioned on an EICR (even if only as a C3) - usually of course they are not detected because floors aren't pulled up, but in this case if he had to work on them then there's no excuse for not correcting the ones on any circuits he worked on at least - and ideally replacing the whole lot as part of the work...

I'd say it was reasonable for you to lose all faith in him at this point and point that out to check a trade etc, though I'm not sure I have great faith in their procedures, since their interest is in continuing to get payment from the people on their list.

What I find astonishing is that someone who is paying Checkatrade, NAPIT, and clearly has a tester and enough qualifications to get onto NAPITs list to start with, can possibly afford to only charge £250 for his work

He clearly doesn't value his own time or work much. As it turns out, he appears to be correct and possibly overestimating it!

Even if he thought he was being kind by undercharging and cutting corners to save costs, in fact he's just made it more expensive and time consuming to get up to a suitable standard.

In an ideal world, I'd want someone to come out and write an independent report on the state of the work that has been done (as well as the existing electrical installation). In practise, I'm not sure how that will happen though, unless NAPIT show some interest.

I would wait until you have heard back about the Part P notification in particularly, and then approach NAPIT directly, as well as CheckaTrade, and maybe even the local building control.

Document everything, with photographs, and be clear on what was done by him and what was already there (but that he was aware of) as it will make things easier if anything comes of it.

Someone needs to take responsibility for the fact that a registered competent person has left you with this, but the evidence suggests that no-one really wants to.

It may be something to bring to the attention of your MP/Council, etc - so that they can perhaps pass it on to the people who do want to improve standards for everyone.

The only good news is that since he seems to have done such a slipshod job, he probably hasn't done any damage that can't be put right by a COMPETENT person with a few hours of work.
 
I have a paper trail and a lot of evidence now compiled.

a) The before and after photos
b) The incorrect certificate with his name, address and signature on
c) The original contact request through check-a-trade website
d) All the text messages between us regarding appointment times, etc etc and the conversation regarding the wrong certificate.

so he will be hard pressed to say it was not him that installed it.

I have text him for his email address, so I can put it all in writing with images with regards to the problems found and see what he wants to do. Problem is it was only £250, I can imagine its going to cost 3 times that to put it right and safe, those JB's are not safe.
 
I have a paper trail and a lot of evidence now compiled.

a) The before and after photos
b) The incorrect certificate with his name, address and signature on
c) The original contact request through check-a-trade website
d) All the text messages between us regarding appointment times, etc etc and the conversation regarding the wrong certificate.

so he will be hard pressed to say it was not him that installed it.

I have text him for his email address, so I can put it all in writing with images with regards to the problems found and see what he wants to do. Problem is it was only £250, I can imagine its going to cost 3 times that to put it right and safe, those JB's are not safe.
Well done for having all that information together - it will certainly help. Do you have any invoice or proof of payment?
I would contact NAPIT and ask them for advice at this point, and see if you can send them the documents/photos etc that you have in writing.

In theory NAPIT have the power to make him come back and correct everything to suitable standards, but unless they were also willing to check and certify his work, I'm not sure I'd be comfortable with that even third hand, so I'm not surprised if you don't want him in the house again.

It's understandable that you feel pessimistic after the experiences you've had, but from what I've seen I don't think that it will be necessarily expensive to get to an acceptable standard, if you can find someone able to do it.

The consumer unit you have, even if not ideal, is capable of being installed in a compliant way - if it was mounted correctly, the cables connected correctly, and the junction boxes sorted, then a full EICR done, that should still be possible in under a day. (Assuming there aren't other things he's missed).

It may be worth getting quotes from 2 or 3 electricians and making sure they visit before they give you the figure.
 
I know, its gone past shocking and got to upsetting now.
I can believe that, and it's upsetting to see work like this.

A passing thought - Is there any way you could have an incorrect name and address? I'm just wondering if he isn't actually the person you looked up. Don't get me wrong, there are some real cowboys in CPS schemes but the price charged is so low and I struggle to see how anyone can work to this standard, make ends meet, and have any interest in remaining in a competent person scheme. By the time insurance, scheme membership, publications, calibration is factored in I can't see how he's making any money if he's in a scheme.

As above, you can complain to Napit. In theory they stand behind the quality of work and warranty it for a long time afterwards. They may uphold the complaint, but to my knowledge they can only insist the same member rectifies things - I've never known or heard of any other outcome.

Have you paid the bill yet? I'm guessing so.

I think there are two routes forwards. Either go to Napit as @Dartlec said above. Or....

You may consider writing a letter of complaint saying that there is a consensus from some other electricians that the work is not up to standard in several ways, and you would like a partial refund (total bill less Screwfix price for that CU). If he would like 3rd party arbitration then you are happy to approach Napit and Check-a-trade to obtain impartial advice and confirmation that the work is up to standard.
You are concerned about the following aspects:
-Failure to confirm that supply was in a safe condition before work started
-Unauthorised conversion of earthing system to TN
-Cables inadequately contained
-Access to live parts
-Cables inadequately supported
-Consumer unit missing parts and inadequately supported.
-Incorrect certification
-Notifiable works being carried out without notification occurring.
(I could go on)

This doesn't prevent you going to Napit if you get no response.
 
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I can believe that, and it's upsetting to see work like this.

A passing thought - Is there any way you could have an incorrect name and address? I'm just wondering if he isn't actually the person you looked up. Don't get me wrong, there are some real cowboys in CPS schemes but the price charged is so low and I struggle to see how anyone can work to this standard, make ends meet, and have any interest in remaining in a competent person scheme. By the time insurance, scheme membership, publications, calibration is factored in I can't see how he's making any money if he's in a scheme.

As above, you can complain to Napit. In theory they stand behind the quality of work and warranty it for a long time afterwards. They may uphold the complaint, but to my knowledge they can only insist the same member rectifies things - I've never known or heard of any other outcome.

Have you paid the bill yet? I'm guessing so.

I think there are two routes forwards. Either go to Napit as @Dartlec said above. Or....

You may consider writing a letter of complaint saying that there is a consensus from some other electricians that the work is not up to standard in several ways, and you would like a partial refund (total bill less Screwfix price for that CU). If he would like 3rd party arbitration then you are happy to approach Napit and Check-a-trade to obtain impartial advice and confirmation that the work is up to standard.
You are concerned about the following aspects:
-Failure to confirm that supply was in a safe condition before work started
-Unauthorised conversion of earthing system to TN
-Cables inadequately contained
-Access to live parts
-Cables inadequately supported
-Consumer unit missing parts and inadequately supported.
-Incorrect certification
-Notifiable works being carried out without notification occurring.
(I could go on)

This doesn't prevent you going to Napit if you get no response.

Great post, thank you, and thank you to every other member who has chipped in with advice...

Unfortunately I paid cash, only thing I have is a paper trail of him quoting £250 and on the same day me withdrawing £250 from cash machine (Nottraceable I know) but hey ho.

It seemed like he did it as a side job, he came at 16:30 pm and finished about 19:15 so it seemed looking back now that he did his days graft and this was a side job on the way home to earn extra spending money/beer money/....... if you get what I mean.

He had a young lad with him (Apprentice maybe?) poor lad if he is an apprentice learning from him.

The address and name on the certificate he gave does match up with whats on check-a-trade contact details and he is trading as a LTD company. <<His Name>> Ltd. so for example Joe Bloggs Ltd.

That, his phone number, LTD company reg details and check-a-trade and Napit all match, I didn't go as far as asking for his ID / driving licence to check it was him when he arrived but I'm sure it was the person named on the certs and sites. But i can imagine in the past people have created whole untraceable personas/ids to do such things..

As upset as I am with the ordeal, I suppose I will have to chalk it down to experience and try be even more thorough in future when selecting tradesmen/women.
 
Great post, thank you, and thank you to every other member who has chipped in with advice...

Unfortunately I paid cash, only thing I have is a paper trail of him quoting £250 and on the same day me withdrawing £250 from cash machine (Nottraceable I know) but hey ho.

It seemed like he did it as a side job, he came at 16:30 pm and finished about 19:15 so it seemed looking back now that he did his days graft and this was a side job on the way home to earn extra spending money/beer money/....... if you get what I mean.

He had a young lad with him (Apprentice maybe?) poor lad if he is an apprentice learning from him.

The address and name on the certificate he gave does match up with whats on check-a-trade contact details and he is trading as a LTD company. <<His Name>> Ltd. so for example Joe Bloggs Ltd.

That, his phone number, LTD company reg details and check-a-trade and Napit all match, I didn't go as far as asking for his ID / driving licence to check it was him when he arrived but I'm sure it was the person named on the certs and sites. But i can imagine in the past people have created whole untraceable personas/ids to do such things..

As upset as I am with the ordeal, I suppose I will have to chalk it down to experience and try be even more thorough in future when selecting tradesmen/women.

It may be better all round to move on, but I'd still encourage you to report it to Napit and CheckaTrade - with Napit, it might at the very least be raised at his next annual assessment and some questions asked.

If you employ someone else to sort the work, ensure they will be happy proving a Part P certificate once they have done the work. It may be possible for them to "uninstall" the CU you have, then "reinstall" it and certify it.

There are of course benefits to other options, such as Surge Protection, RCBOs etc, which a good electrician will talk through with you.
 

Reply to Advice on safety of new Consumer Unit Install in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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