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Discuss Is it OK to terminate switched fused spur with 13A socket? in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

Re worktop span. Yes you would need additional support. Job I've just been on similar situation. They used 2 x large 90 degree wall brackets fixed directly underneath worktop. If no support, worktop will bow within a short time.
I doubt if I could find a heavy duty wall bracket slim enough to fit in the 23mm gap between the appliances, which is why I was thinking of using 18mm steel poles.
 
Remember that your dryer will generate a lot of heat, as will your freezer, so make sure that these go at the end positions with the washing machine in the middle.
 
I have decided to reduce the width of the tall larder unit to the right of my row of appliances from 600 to 500mm. This gives me much more space between the machines and will allow the use of decor panels as intermediate worktop supports.

I have also reached the conclusion that a perfect solution for the power feed to each appliance simply does not exist! I had been tempted to go for replacement longer mains leads that let me connect the plugs to switched sockets conveniently located in the larder unit, but I have now realised that I would probably have to pull all three machines out from under the worktop if I wanted to fully withdraw any given cable, as otherwise the passage of the 13A plug would be blocked in several places.

Every solution has issues, but cutting off the plugs and hard wiring to a flex outlet behind each machine (fed from DP switches in the larder unit) is once again in the frame, as perhaps the least troublesome.
 
Remember that your dryer will generate a lot of heat, as will your freezer, so make sure that these go at the end positions with the washing machine in the middle.
The washer and dryer look very similar, so I currently have the freezer in the middle for cosmetic reasons. You are the first person to tell me that this could be an issue. Where would I find figures on the heat output of my appliances in order to make a judgement of how important the placement might be?
 
I've just checked the specs for my dryer and washing machine.

The 'total rated load' of the dryer is 1.1kW, while the washing machine is 2.1-2.4kW. That suggests the latter might generate more heat.

However, the dryer's energy consumption for the 'Cottons Normal dry standard programme' with a full load is given as 1.39kWh, while the washing machine's energy consumption for the 'Cottons 60° standard programme' with a full load is 1.0kWh.
 
Power in does not necessarily equal heat out. The dryer blows most of the heat out of the front vent (remember to clean out the fluff every time you use it), while the freezer needs airflow over the heat exchanger at the back or it will not work. The washing machine will not get very hot at all - even a hot wash is only 60 degrees and most are set at 40 or less.

Insulation on appliances is much better these days too - my old dishwasher would melt butter left on the worktop above it, while the newer one does not even feel warm to the touch.

I would say that ventilation for the freezer is your biggest concern and you may need to put a vent in the worktop above it.
 
I may well be wrong on this, but I would imadgine that the freezer will also have to work harder if the environment surrounding it is warmer, as some of that heat will make it through the insulation to the inside and the heat pump will become less efficient in warmer ambient air. Im not sure how much of an impact this will have in the real world, however.
 
The Freezer is trying to remove any residual heat from the produce in the freezer compartment, and dissipate this heat via the evaporator plate at the back of the appliance. Should this evaporator become dirty, blocked then the appliance will be less efficient, so it is imperative to ensure the evaporator is kept free from dirt, dust etc basic physics in essence.
 

Reply to Is it OK to terminate switched fused spur with 13A socket? in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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