Megger 1552 faults

[tantrumelectric]

I was testing a new install today when the 1552 MFT started playing up.It reads voltage flashing, also the L-N and N-PE are both lit.When switched to Loop, it flashes <55v. On PFC it flashes 235v and beeps on and off. On IR, It works fine.On RCD x1 or X5 it just flashes <100v flashing.

There is also an open switch symbol at the top of the display next to the L-N indicator.

Info on the web says the polarity is reversed if these 2 indicators are lit..... Tried the tested in 3 different houses just to confirm I wasnt going mad.....

Any ideas gents? Just started up on my own and used the tester only a handful of times. Bought it used and its been fine past few months.

any mails to [email protected] would be most appreciated.

thanks

 

[Kiers1970]

I know the feeling, mine does the sale thing every now and again. I reset it a couple of times, and it comes back to life.

 

[tantrumelectric]

How do you reset it? thanks

 

[Kiers1970]

sorry mate, I just switch it on and off. Does your sometimes just go blank, then if you move the dial it comes back to life? Ir's very annoying. make sure your batteries are in good nick etc.

 

[tantrumelectric]

Yeah 1st thing I done as trhey were showing 9.2 V.

Annoyin thing was they customer was paying me 1100 quid today had I been able to complete the test form...Doh....

 

[SPARTYKUS]

9.2 is too low! Should be up in 12's!! Below 10v renowned for playing up.

 

[tantrumelectric]

yeah its 12.2 now with new batts in

 

[SPARTYKUS]

You never know. Could be that.

 

[tantrumelectric]

Still no different tho. Workin same as it was with old batts in. Gona ring megger in mornin. cheers

 

[GLENNSPARK]

I was testing a new install today when the 1552 MFT started playing up.It reads voltage flashing, also the L-N and N-PE are both lit.When switched to Loop, it flashes <55v. On PFC it flashes 235v and beeps on and off. On IR, It works fine.On RCD x1 or X5 it just flashes <100v flashing.

There is also an open switch symbol at the top of the display next to the L-N indicator.

Info on the web says the polarity is reversed if these 2 indicators are lit..... Tried the tested in 3 different houses just to confirm I wasnt going mad.....

Any ideas gents? Just started up on my own and used the tester only a handful of times. Bought it used and its been fine past few months.

any mails to [email protected] would be most appreciated.

thanks

saw the forumname and wanted to make sure it wasn`t my boss...lol.....:ninja:

 

[jaysparx]

Hi Tantrumelectric, how did you get on when you called megger as my one has the same fault!

 

[thiza1455]

My megger mft 1552 just done exactly the same thing any ideas guys .... [Kevin how dd u sort yours] thiza . Any approved megger repairers around !!!
Also as soon as i put new batt 12,2 v will be drained to 0 volts following day without using it

 

[Wiredspark]

These sound like troublesome units and should be returned asap. How can you be confident these meters are providing you with accurate readings (which you are putting your name to) when they seem to be prone to going on the blink. Incidently my fluke has just started giving me grief. Bloody technology.

 

[vernam616]

Id be checking the leads for a start and also checking to see if you have them in the correct position

 

[adamh]

if its flashing up and beeping its reverse polarity, i only scanned the post so i may have misread.

 

[adamh]

just re read is this using the plug top lead or the individual ones?

 

[thiza1455]

Thanks guys this is frustrating still trying to work out who can repair @ reasonable cost

 

[Strima]

If it's less than three years old it may still be under warranty.

 

[MarkieSparkie]

This is the sort of behavior on a Megger 15xx series MFT that is usually the result of a selection switch or input terminal fault, most often it starts intermittent and gets worse over time.
Before condemning your MFT to spares or repair:
1) Check the lead sets for continuity flex all points of stress whilst checking, the BS 1363 lead set is particularly vulnerable at the multi-way plug/socket interconnection.
2) Clean the 4mm sockets with isopropyl alcohol or switch cleaner on a cotton bud, you will be amazed at the crap and dirt that ends up on the cotton bud.

 

[Kiers1970]

the selector switch on mine is a pain.I suspect there is rubbish accumulated in it. Anyone ever attempted to dismantle theirs to sort this out.OI reckon there are some screws hidden under the cover somewhere. It's out of warranty before anyone points out the obvious! (rubbish design fault though. Theses things should give years of service without problems, considering the cost of them)

 

[thiza1455]

just re read is this using the plug top lead or the individual ones?

Its using individual leads

 

[morph]

your meter is knackered , i had one a 1502 lasted 7 years then the continuity went funny on and off then it stopped reading voltage and thus could not do loop or pfc etc, it will cost you £400 to sort out so you might as well buy a new one ....

 

[telectrix]

the selector switch on mine is a pain.I suspect there is rubbish accumulated in it. Anyone ever attempted to dismantle theirs to sort this out.OI reckon there are some screws hidden under the cover somewhere. It's out of warranty before anyone points out the obvious! (rubbish design fault though. Theses things should give years of service without problems, considering the cost of them)

you can open them, but it's a pain. remove all screws, then you can carefully prise the case apart. it interlocks with the front panel and is a right pain to refit. there's a company in stafford. think they're called calibration services ( summat like, anyway), that will quote you a repair cost if you send/take it to them (a lot less than megger charge).

 

[edexlab]

the selector switch on mine is a pain.I suspect there is rubbish accumulated in it. Anyone ever attempted to dismantle theirs to sort this out.OI reckon there are some screws hidden under the cover somewhere. It's out of warranty before anyone points out the obvious! (rubbish design fault though. Theses things should give years of service without problems, considering the cost of them)

Does it show nothing or a different function to the one your selecting?
Mine does this and the only thing you can do is press the backlight button which also lights up the selections and then you have to tweak it around a bit
I'm debating whether to repair or just go and buy a fluke as I'm not impressed with the new meggers there's lots of issues with them a mate asked me to check a continuity reading he had on his brand new megger 0.9 ohms r1 r2 on one metre of 6.0mm it was actually 0.04 by my tester (recently calibrated)

 

[bigbolt]

re megger 1552 tester
i had loads of problems with one of mine bought new leads etc cleaned terminals with cleaner still no better so i decided to take it apart myself to have alook this is very easy just take your time
i eventually traced fault to the back of the centre post the earth one this post can turn 360 on itself and after time the soldered connection had broken off but because it is doubled up with another wire and is under heat shrjnk it can be intermittant and a real pain
resoldered and put a blob of glue at back of post to stop it turning good as new
i hope this helps someone

 

[R4BOE]

megger is s*** we have had several instruments including the MFT1553 which is only a backup instrument so no sore use its like new its been back to megger several times and still not sorted out, and there back up after sales care is s***, ther rep is hopeless

 

[MarkieSparkie]

re megger 1552 tester
... so i decided to take it apart myself to have alook this is very easy just take your time ...

Please provide us with the step by step procedure you used Bigbolt, as every time I've tried to take a 15xx series MFT apart it's proved far from easy.

 

[bigbolt]

Please provide us the step by step procedure you used Bigbolt, as every time I've tried to take a 15xx series MFT apart it's proved far from easy.

To dissmantle my mft 1552 unit i removed battery cover and battery unit remove spare fuse as this will drop out anyway.Next carefully prise off the front label which surrounds all the function dials start this off with a stanley knife blade or similar it comes off easily once you have got a corner up it is held down by some blobs of contact adhesive so will go straight back on after.You will now see 4 screws remove these with a no 1 pozi the front panel will come forward loose and you simply pull off carefully the ribbon cable and then this is off.There is a rubber seal strip around a recess behind the front panel this will fall out so remove and refit later.Next there are 4 screws holding the main body together remove these prise the body apart.There are 2 ribbon cables to unplug and the battery pack input plug which goes onto the circuit board this is very flimsy and make a note of its orientation.You can now get at everything as i said my problem was with the centre pin input plug which i noticed was turning 360 and so snapped its connection.You will have to cut some small ties around the cables and remove the heat shrink around the solder.I realised the fault by checking the continuity between the input plug and its connection post on the circuit board.Have fun!! i hope this helps mine is fine now and i saved a lot of money so is perfectly doable

 

[Kiers1970]

right, I'm going to try this mate, wish me luck, I tried to open an Ipod, whoops cracked the screen!