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what are some tools that were worth the price tag?

Discuss what are some tools that were worth the price tag? in the Electrical Tools and Products area at ElectriciansForums.net

Would love to know why the battery packs for cordless kit are so expensive?
I think a good multi-tool is essential even if your not a spark.
 
Spyderco penknife UK legal carry... invaluable...saved a couple of people from serious injury,but mainly just so useful.

Mostly work related,but on a walk,with me missus and No.2 son,we found a giant road cone....and i carved a smiley face in it,complete with sticky-out lips and eyelids ?
 
The CK M3.5 and M4 rethreading tools, never know when you'll need them...might sit there for weeks unsued....but wouldn't be without them.
Also, more recently, the Quickwire cable strippers, rewired 16 downlights in under half an hour the other day, they pay for themselves!
 
Second the ratchet cutters, I have an old german set that my dad gave to me which i have used and abused cutting SWA up to about 16mm. don't think they were meant for SWA but they do the job...

Also a decent set of screwdrivers is a must, i like my WIHA ones again absolutely used and abused from prying floor boards to stabbing ceilings and they are still holding up well.

 
If you are stripping a lot of T&E these are invaluable, two actions and the sheath is off, next the inner cables are also stripped: Jokari No. 4 Cable Strippers 6½ - https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/jokari-no-4-cable-strippers-6-165mm/7540k.

What I would not buy again is the Armeg torque screwdriver.
 
I don't think that I have ever bought something I don't use, some tools end up on Ebay but these tend to be spares or duplicates of what I already have.
I don;t like hanging on to things I have multiple of, seems a waste
 
Would love to know why the battery packs for cordless kit are so expensive?
I think a good multi-tool is essential even if your not a spark.

A couple of reasons spring to mind:

1. People are prepared to pay the asking price.
2. A lot of good deals appear on tool bodies, which often look like loss leaders intended to tie users into a particular platform. Eventually more batteries becomes a convenience.
 
If you are stripping a lot of T&E these are invaluable, two actions and the sheath is off, next the inner cables are also stripped: Jokari No. 4 Cable Strippers 6½ - https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/jokari-no-4-cable-strippers-6-165mm/7540k.

What I would not buy again is the Armeg torque screwdriver.
Curious as to why? Have one and love it, and 2 occasions I snapped a tip (PZSL1 & 2); A quick DM on Twitter and I've had a replacement by the following day at no charge.
 
if I snapped a driver bit, I'd cut down on the weetabix.
 
The CK M3.5 and M4 rethreading tools, never know when you'll need them...might sit there for weeks unsued....but wouldn't be without them.
Also, more recently, the Quickwire cable strippers, rewired 16 downlights in under half an hour the other day, they pay for themselves!
Nice one mate cheers, already got a rethreading tool haha typical apprentice stripped the threads on a couple boxes
 
If you are stripping a lot of T&E these are invaluable, two actions and the sheath is off, next the inner cables are also stripped: Jokari No. 4 Cable Strippers 6½ - https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/jokari-no-4-cable-strippers-6-165mm/7540k.

What I would not buy again is the Armeg torque screwdriver.

Cheers mate, what about the torque screwdriver do you not like?
 
Torque drivers are tosh imo , if you can’t judge a termination by experience and feel then you shouldn’t be working on an electrical installation in the first place

A lot of aerospace technicians could probably judge torque quite accurately, but I'd much prefer that they adhere to manufacturer specifications.
 
Torque drivers are tosh imo , if you can’t judge a termination by experience and feel then you shouldn’t be working on an electrical installation in the first place
That sounds like the sort of misguided quote you tend to get on Chainsaw threads, "If you don't know how to sharpen a Chainsaw you should not be using one" ? I can rip the end off a 12mm HT bolt with a socket set, so tend to use a torque wrench, but these Torque drivers seem so over the top.
 
Thanks mate, just bought a sds but I think multitool is next up, what sort of things do you use it for?
Everything! Cutting out plasterboard and ply for back boxes. Also use masonary blades for smaller jobs in plaster or softer block work. Cutting floorboards.
 
Would love to know why the battery packs for cordless kit are so expensive?
I think a good multi-tool is essential even if your not a spark.

Battery packs contain 18650 unprotected batteries, which if you buy from a reputable supplier (Samsung, LG, Sony etc) can cost up to £8 per battery. Taking into consideration, design, manufacturing, distribution etc, the likes of dewalt etc still want to turn a healthy profit.
 
18650 LiIo batteries where originated by A123 systems in the USA, but where so successful it was not long before Chinese clones called PO4 became available, the term 18650 seems to have now become a generic term.

Both types require a balance charge unlike standard Nimh or even the old Nicad's, the balance charge can be built into the battery case or in the charger, if you ever look at the pack or charger you will see multiple connections not just one positive or negative this is to facilitate individual cell monitoring to ensure a balance charge is administered.
 
Everything! Cutting out plasterboard and ply for back boxes. Also use masonary blades for smaller jobs in plaster or softer block work. Cutting floorboards.
They are indeed very handy. Take care though! One of my luckiest ever moments I think was cutting out this board with multitool. Rather incredibly I didn't nick any of them or the pipe.
1617268355806.png
 
18650 LiIo batteries where originated by A123 systems in the USA, but where so successful it was not long before Chinese clones called PO4 became available, the term 18650 seems to have now become a generic term.

It is a generic term that makes perfect sense as it is based (roughly) on cell dimensions - 18650 = 18x65mm

Tesla poured quite a bit of money into R&D of cells and concluded that optimum form factor for current lithium technology wasn't far from this size. Their research resulted in the creation of 20700 and 21700 cells and I believe the latter is the cell they use in current production.
 
18650 was the part number that the original manufacture gave their cells (A123 systems), I will have to find my other cells to see the part number on them, but 21700 seems to ring a bell, Tesla did not exist in the time period I am referring too and the original chemistry was Lithium nano Phosphate.
 
18650 was the part number that the original manufacture gave their cells (A123 systems), I will have to find my other cells to see the part number on them, but 21700 seems to ring a bell, Tesla did not exist in the time period I am referring too and the original chemistry was Lithium nano Phosphate.

The part number was designated on the basis of size. 18350, 16340, 18500 and 26500 cells all followed the same pattern.
 
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