Try fitting some of the expensive/designer Italian sh**e I have to deal with. Artemide, Flos and Moooi are all a pile of rubbish from the continent. I don't think they do 'loop in' wiring methods in the rest of Europe seeing as how all these fittings are designed to take only 3 flaming wires! :32:
I'm after some of that HIP plastic covering that the electricity board use to protect their incoming cables between the meter box and where they pop out of the ground. Anyone got an idea where I can get some. I'd like it to be similar to the stuff this company manufactures (LINK) but with a...
You need a relay. Buy yourself a 8 pin relay with 230V coil. You then wire the orange wire from the UFH motorised valve to the coil (A1) of the relay. A permanent live needs wiring to the common terminals then the manifold pump is wired to one of the NO (normally open) terminals and the boiler...
I've got the Armeg one and find it's quick and useful when rewiring properties built in block. I've modified mine slightly so the hoover can attach to it so no dust and nice clean holes. They're not perfect but if you've got lots of back boxes to chop in they make a fast neat job but only in block.
Agreed, I've had high resistances across an RCD before which put the Zs readings way above what was expected. If you get higher then expected Zs readings then carry out a proper Ze test (make sure the install is isolated completely and you're testing the main earth only which you disconnect at...
Rule of thumb is if it's old with a Type number it's a 3871 if it's newer with a Type letter it's a 60898.
e.g. Type 1 and 2 = 3871 , Type B, C, D = 60898.
Also if it's rated at 5A, 15A or 30A it's generally a 3871 as the newer 60898s are rated at 6A, 16A or 32A. No idea why they upped the...
Heating systems are fairly straight forward once you've done a few of them but there are a few things you need to remember.
1. The heating engineer requires an isolator to be fitted near the boiler for servicing. We've talked about this before on here and have come to the conclusion that it's...
Run a 3C in as others have stated. In my opinion 1.5mm is over kill seeing as how the load is tiny and the allowed VD is 5% in this instance. 1mm is far easier to terminate especially when the connection area is as small as it is on most room stats. Just so you know not all room stats require 3...
Another shout for Onsite Calibration services. Had Mike check my meters for the last 3 or 4 years running, great guy plus my meter never has to leave my side.
Personally, I offer a 1 year guarantee on all my work so if it goes wrong within the first year due to a faulty fitting I will replace it completely free of charge. I do however tell my customers in no uncertain terms that if it becomes faulty after a year then I will endeavour to get them a...
Have a word with your local wholesaler. About 4 years ago I had a standard white plastic Scolmore Click switch plate engraved. I have no idea who the wholesaler used to do it but the service is definitely available.
Thanks guys. I did notice that I'd used the wrong voltage for my calculation, you'd have thought I'd know that having had to calculate to 400V and 230V for some time now. I've applied for a 70kVA supply but now the customer is querying if it's necessary. Unfortunately they don't understand the...
If the customer wants a halogen fitting then MR16 every time due to better lamp life and higher efficacy. If they're worried about running costs then GU10 with LED lamps or full blown LED fittings like the Halers ones is my recommendation.
Installed them once. Nice and easy to put in but the electricity costs will be pretty horrific unless the building has excellent insulation installed and you'll need to be on the right tariff. I would personally avoid like the plague if it was my house.
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