What would happen if an electrician did 1st fix (for example) but then couldn't/wouldn't come back to finish off? There's a chance that my extension may go 'on hold' for a bit, so is likely to take a few years. What can be done in this situation? Surely I wouldn't need to pull the building down...
Thank you for the detailed reply. Unfortunately I didn't think of taking a picture but part of the cable happens to be visible in a photo that I have. I suspect most electricians would be happy with my description and by looking at it but I'm not sure what I'd do if building control want to see...
I'm building a extension in the near future and have recently done a lot of work on my house. During the work, I installed a cable for the heating in my extension (runs from a JB near my boiler to where the extension would be). I'm worried about getting this cable 'signed off' as the cable is...
That sounds like a good idea. Can anybody comment on whether they think this would be a good idea? I'm guessing this would be reference method A, which would give me 20A for the rings and 32A for my 6mm oven, which is just enough. I guess I'd need to put a batten in there to screw the conduit to...
I need to insulate under my suspended floor which has many cables running through the joists (consumer unit is below floor). My main concern is causing the cables to overheat etc. Here's a quick overview:
Joist height: 140mm
Cables: Mixture of circuits but the 2.5mm 32A rings are my main concern...
My consumer unit is in my garage and the cables (approx 12 cables - 10 circuits) go through the ceiling. There is a huge hole where the cables are and the room above suffers from drafts. I'm wondering what I could/should do with these cables. As it's a garage, there should really be fire...
I've been trying to work out whether grid switches (ie. a 20A switch) are acceptable on a normal 32A ring. I've read many threads online. Very few people seem sure whether it's acceptable but many sparks seem to do it in kitchens etc.
The argument seems to be that the switch is rated at 20A but...
You may have the wrong idea. None of the cooking appliances will go on the circuit with the socket, partly for the reason you mentioned and partly because of regs. It would be either two 32A circuits (one for the hob and one for two ovens) or a 32A circuit and two 16A circuits. The sockets will...
:laughing: I did consider 10mm for future proofing but I suspect it wouldn't go down the wall. 6mm will go down the wall quite easily but 10mm could turn into a much bigger job. I decided that I shouldn't be changing the kitchen for many years so I won't worry about the future too much. Two 16A...
Big refurb for me, so I think I'm decided on two circuits now as the cost difference is insignificant.
I should have it done for Xmas, just not this Xmas :). I've been doing other rooms, and almost ready for the kitchen now.
I'm planning to get two single ovens and have been trying to find the best way to do the circuits. People seem to do it every way possible but I have doubts about some of the ways that they are done. The ovens I'm looking at are 16A appliances (max power is approx 14A), so I won't be plugging...
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