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Discuss 2357 am2 in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

You're going to have to explain that one!

How many sparks are removing the powder coating underneath the banjo? A job that a correctly installed piranha nut will do. That's why they only have the teeth on one side. The other is for plastic enclosures. When tight, do up the grub screw and jobs a goodun!

Why do you need to remove the coating under the banjo?
 
he is a fool.

with a banjo you are using a nut and bolt to carry the current, i dont even know what coating he is talking about? we were talking about using it on plastic

Definitely not a fool dude!

Powder coating on metal DBs is non conductive. The teeth remove the powder coating to earth the armour, or else you need flying leads. Use the non teeth side down on plastic enclosures.
 
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Definitely not a fool dude!

Powder coating on metal DBs is non conductive. The teeth remove the powder coating to earth the enclosure. Use the non teeth side down on plastic enclosures.
first of all we were talking about plastic.

second it is bolted through from the outside of the board with the gland directly on it so it doesnt make a difference as there will be a flying lead from the banjo to the earth bar anyway
 
Definitely not a fool dude!

Powder coating on metal DBs is non conductive. The teeth remove the powder coating to earth the armour, or else you need flying leads. Use the non teeth side down on plastic enclosures.

Most metal DBs have removable gland plates which are held in place by half a dozen small screws. Unless you have run a flylead to the gland plate then you cannot rely on that for your earth connection.

And you use the p nuts with the teeth facing the enclosure on plastic too, it holds the nut in place whilst you tighten the gland in to it, this should be detailed in the instructions for the p nuts
 
Most metal DBs have removable gland plates which are held in place by half a dozen small screws. Unless you have run a flylead to the gland plate then you cannot rely on that for your earth connection.

And you use the p nuts with the teeth facing the enclosure on plastic too, it holds the nut in place whilst you tighten the gland in to it, this should be detailed in the instructions for the p nuts

You should always fly lead the SWA to the earth bar IMO.
 
I did not know that. In the early 2000 they were done away with in favour of the NVQ

Are you saying the AM2 was 'done away with'?

Although not sure, I don't believe this is/ was the case.

The AM2 has been 'incorporated' into the NVQ 3 (at least when I did it) so that I had to complete the site diary and the AM2 and have an employer's reference to get the Gold Card.

However, as we all know, things are in a constant state of flux regarding the requirements for accredited qualification; it's hard to keep up!
 
Are you saying the AM2 was 'done away with'?

Although not sure, I don't believe this is/ was the case.

The AM2 has been 'incorporated' into the NVQ 3 (at least when I did it) so that I had to complete the site diary and the AM2 and have an employer's reference to get the Gold Card.

However, as we all know, things are in a constant state of flux regarding the requirements for accredited qualification; it's hard to keep up!

Maybe not done away with but my college would not let us do it as they said it would be done away with. Just done my NVQ and never looked back to find out. Sorry if I was incorrect.
 
That is one reason the piranha nut was devised as a time saving solution. The 'Piranha' bit was the 'teeth' that 'bit' through the insulating powder coating thus utilising the metal frame of a metal enclosure instead of a fly lead.

I heard all this before with the Orbix fixings only to be told now they are not acceptable as an earth.
 

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