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Hi everyone,

I use to have a fluke 1652 and had it calibrated but when i done a continuity check on my checkbox the readings would be out by sometimes 0.25 of an ohm and sometimes would be spot on on different days.
I brought new leads and it didnt make a diiference and sent it back to the calibration department and they could find a problem with it.
So i lost faith in it and brought a fluke 1652 C and this does the same sometimes i should get more or less a spot on reading everytime should nt i and i have been nulling the leads out everytime before i check it.
Am i looking into it to much and should not worry to much about it or has anyone else had the same type of problem with flukes ??????

Send me your opinions please
 
Hi Sedgy34

Yeah i always null leads but i always check the continuity on the check box as well and sometimes its spot on and other times its out by .20 or .30 of an ohm does this matter to much am i being to ---- ?????
 
Could it be your leads may not be spot on? I've had a 1653 for 6 years and any fluctuations in accuracy have been sorted by adjusting/ changing test leads
 
Fluke 165xx series MFTs can be a bit temperamental when it comes to lead nulling.
The manufacturers standard method is by way of the Fluke zero adaptor (provided as part of all 165xB,C&D series kits). Somewhere in your Fluke box there should be a fancy piece of bent metal which Fluke provide as a device to aid nulling the Fluke leads. They call this expensive accessory the "zero adapter", it is provided because unlike most MFTs the 165xx series also require the BS1363 loop/RCD test lead to nulled before its use and the zero adapter allows easy shorting of the BS1363 plug pins. The zero adapter also has 3 x 4mm sockets to allow nulling of the red, black and green leads when used as prods or with croc-clips. Fluke zero adaptor (165xx) Part No. 3261925, £31 + VAT @1/2/2011. Before the introduction of this device Fluke were getting a lot of complaints about inconsistent continuity and loop/RCD test results, caused by poor nulling or lack of nulling of the test leads.
Alternatives:
A scrap piece of 30mm wide x 50mm long copper busbar with 3 x 4mm holes in one end for nulling the 3 lead set or shorting the pins of the BS1363 plug. Alternatively 300 mm length of 1mm[SUP]2[/SUP] CPC wrapped round the pins of the BS1363 plug of the loop/RCD test lead are reasonable substitutes. Another method used by one of my colleges is to short the BS1363 pins on a stainless steel drainer, but it's a bit bulky to carry with you.
The particularly important point is giving the croc-clips (if used) something to bite on and a method that doesn't require juggling all the leads at once.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
As Dave has pointed out low MFT battery voltage will cause random measurements. The low battery icon appears on the right side of the secondary display at <6.0V most users believe this is set too low and that random behavior can start on some Fluke MFTs at a higher terminal voltage. It is therefore wise to test the battery voltage before testing. Turn the rotary switch to the 'V' position. Press 'F3' to initiate the battery test. The voltage function display will clear and is replaced by the battery voltage in the secondary display for 2 seconds before the voltage display returns to normal. If the battery voltage indicated is <7.0V replace the batteries as a precautionary measure to reduce the risk of random measurement behavior.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Loves a battery does my fluke.:53:

You'll have issues with lead bulling anywhere below 6.5V if you havn't nulled it already. You should only need to do it once per battery change though as it stores the info. This is confirmed by a zero symbol with a line through it on the middle left of the display.

I havn't had any issues with mine for the 14 months I've had it, I do change batteries quite regularly though, before the low battery warning comes on.
 
I have a check box used to verify my Ohmmeter, but not always with me. So when I get odd readings after nulling

I check the battery level
wiggle the leads and connectors to make sure they are making good contact

If I'm out on site I use a roll of 4mm2 Grn/Yell. It needs to be of a known length such as 100m at 4.61mOhms/m at 20degC. Since the cable sits in the van most of the time, I adjust the temperature factor by approximately 0.95 - 0.98.

It seems to work reasonably well and is consistent.

Just an aside. If you trust your instrument you can use the above method to assess the outside temperature........... :lol:
 
Last edited:
Fluke 165xx series MFTs can be a bit temperamental when it comes to lead nulling.
The manufacturers standard method is by way of the Fluke zero adaptor (provided as part of all 165xB,C&D series kits). Somewhere in your Fluke box there should be a fancy piece of bent metal which Fluke provide as a device to aid nulling the Fluke leads. They call this expensive accessory the "zero adapter", it is provided because unlike most MFTs the 165xx series also require the BS1363 loop/RCD test lead to nulled before its use and the zero adapter allows easy shorting of the BS1363 plug pins. The zero adapter also has 3 x 4mm sockets to allow nulling of the red, black and green leads when used as prods or with croc-clips. Fluke zero adaptor (165xx) Part No. 3261925, £31 + VAT @1/2/2011. Before the introduction of this device Fluke were getting a lot of complaints about inconsistent continuity and loop/RCD test results, caused by poor nulling or lack of nulling of the test leads.
Alternatives:
A scrap piece of 30mm wide x 50mm long copper busbar with 3 x 4mm holes in one end for nulling the 3 lead set or shorting the pins of the BS1363 plug. Alternatively 300 mm length of 1mm[SUP]2[/SUP] CPC wrapped round the pins of the BS1363 plug of the loop/RCD test lead are reasonable substitutes. Another method used by one of my colleges is to short the BS1363 pins on a stainless steel drainer, but it's a bit bulky to carry with you.
The particularly important point is giving the croc-clips (if used) something to bite on and a method that doesn't require juggling all the leads at once.

You could bridge the terminals of a socket and use it to null the plug top lead.
 

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