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Solar iBoost died

Discuss Solar iBoost died in the Solar PV Forum | Solar Panels Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

I didn't. I replaced a glass fuse with a glass fuse rated identically :) admittedly it was a slightly larger glass fuse but it was rated the same. Admittedly ive done many silly things in my time. To be fair though on this occasion tested all the component's I could first with a multimeter having taken the unit off the wall. I used a phantom power supply to test the led circuit to see if it lit up when I put the fuse in. It did. It wasn't attached to the mains electricity supply. I did fully expect it to blow again when I reattached it to the mains but it didn't. Both it and I survived but I would not advocate anyone else doing it as my level of controlled silliness may not be matched by common sense in others. Thank you for your concern though :)
That’s good information. Any chance of pictures to show where the fuse is you have replaced.
im in process of getting solar iboost. It’s a need to know thing.
 
That’s good information. Any chance of pictures to show where the fuse is you have replaced.
im in process of getting solar iboost. It’s a need to know thing.
Not from me I'm afraid. It's inside the unit... its one of those " open here to void the warranty" things. Mine was out of warranty anyway. If you open the unit the fuse is pretty obvious but it's not supposed to be "tampered" with so be aware.
 
mine was £200.00 secondhand and 2 years old. It worked very well for almost 10 days..then BANG.
Trying to repair it is probably a lost cause but hey...

A better route [in my opinion] is get as big a battery bank as possible so the DHW immersion can be turned on at anytime....hence I just ordered a 50+kWh brand new 48V Lead Acid battery pack....5 years guarantee...that'll be better than trying to get an iBoost or Eddi or Zappi to work on modulated solar.....it can all just bung straight into the battery. ..still, it seems a waste not to fix the iBoost.
 
mine was £200.00 secondhand and 2 years old. It worked very well for almost 10 days..then BANG.
Trying to repair it is probably a lost cause but hey...

A better route [in my opinion] is get as big a battery bank as possible so the DHW immersion can be turned on at anytime....hence I just ordered a 50+kWh brand new 48V Lead Acid battery pack....5 years guarantee...that'll be better than trying to get an iBoost or Eddi or Zappi to work on modulated solar.....it can all just bung straight into the battery. ..still, it seems a waste not to fix the iBoost.
Indeed. I bought mine new about 7 years ago. Also have solar with battery but any unused goes to the grid. Hence putting the water unit in. Wish I could find a switching system so I could charge a second battery bank once the first is full....
 
mine was £200.00 secondhand and 2 years old. It worked very well for almost 10 days..then BANG.
Trying to repair it is probably a lost cause but hey...

A better route [in my opinion] is get as big a battery bank as possible so the DHW immersion can be turned on at anytime....hence I just ordered a 50+kWh brand new 48V Lead Acid battery pack....5 years guarantee...that'll be better than trying to get an iBoost or Eddi or Zappi to work on modulated solar.....it can all just bung straight into the battery. ..still, it seems a waste not to fix the iBoost.
£4500 for the battery £350 for solar iboost.

would it be viable?
 
It's the other way around, a ceramic fuse will handle higher fault currents than a glass fuse.

Ceramic fuses are filled with sand to absorb the molten metal and quench the arc.
I think that's what I'm saying. The higher fault load handled means the ceramic will be hotter and so will be more messy when it blows where the glass one will blow at a lower fault and only the wire will melt... that's how it seems in my head anyway...
 
All brand new kit: £7054.00 for 48v 1200Ahr @C20 and 11kVa Hybrid inverter and auto battery watering kit.

Bought from Paul Byrne of pbbatterysolutions.co.uk

I’ve dealt with him in the past and he’s top drawer. 👍
 
Hi,

My Solar iBoost died, I kind of suspected the internal fuse, I won't go in to the details of how I knew, ahem...

I used my T10 star drive keys to open the case. Once open I needed the same T10 to remove first the smaller PCB, then the larger board as well.

Once all that is removed from the case the fuse is on the back of the main board, soldered in place. I removed it simply enough using this kit with the solderpult although there is also braid in there if you need it.

After plenty of searching and measuring I've determined that mine is a 5mm x 20mm, ceramic cartridge, axial leaded, fast acting 16A 250V fuse. I have now ordered this and will let you know if it's successful.


Please read the datasheet, do your own research and confirm for yourself what you might need. This post is only my experience and not advice.

I took a load of pictures to post but can't remember a good site to host them. Any advice there?
 

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My solar iboost is tripping the MCB. fused spur burnt. i changed the spur. still tripping. checked with different socket as well. still tripping.
While tripping, i noticed the screen of iboost turn on for 1 second bfore it trips. what could be the problem in iboost. I am waiting for long T10 scredriver to arrive to open. Any help appreciated. Its out of warranty. Malec can replace refurbished unit for £175
@Guinnesstain-have you changed fuse. how did you get on
 
I put it back together the other day. It powers up and everything seems fine except...

The blue lightning lamp is always flashing suggesting the immersion is being powered. This is confirmed by the house load in my GivEnergy app = 3.5kW+ when the iBoost+ is powered up and back to normal levels when it's isolated.

With the blue lamp flashing the display says 'Water Heater OFF'. At this time I was NOT producing excess PV.

I'm suspecting the 'incident' that blew the internal fuse may have affected something else. sigh
Anyone have any suggestions what?
I've gone through all the tests in the manual and on the support page. Reverse sender clamp, resistance checks at the immersion etc. The immersion thermostat has also been replaced.
 
I put it back together the other day. It powers up and everything seems fine except...

The blue lightning lamp is always flashing suggesting the immersion is being powered. This is confirmed by the house load in my GivEnergy app = 3.5kW+ when the iBoost+ is powered up and back to normal levels when it's isolated.

With the blue lamp flashing the display says 'Water Heater OFF'. At this time I was NOT producing excess PV.

I'm suspecting the 'incident' that blew the internal fuse may have affected something else. sigh
Anyone have any suggestions what?
I've gone through all the tests in the manual and on the support page. Reverse sender clamp, resistance checks at the immersion etc. The immersion thermostat has also been replaced.
My 2016 Iboost+ has died in a similar way. It seems they only have a 6-7 year life span. My immersion heater is 20 ohms. I phoned Marlec and they said there was a fuse inside that can blow. They told me there are torx screws to open it. So they were very helpful. The extra detail being discussed in this forum could probably be put to Marlec. I need open mine and replace this fuse next.
 
Check if there is a timer on the booster which is cutting it off when you need hot water. If you suspect the unit is receiving no power, it's best to call a professional in to inspect the situation.

AI generated?
 

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