Boiler Controls: Honeywell Equivalent to Randall 103

[uksparks]

Hi,

I am replacing an old Randall 103 boiler controller for a customer but not 100% which one I need, I did order the Honeywell ST9100C, but just need a bit of confirmation that it will do what I think.

Basically the one I have puts power to the boiler and power to the pump, and thats all the new one needs to do.

Does anyone know if this one will do that? I am sure it is the right model, just need a bit of guidance please.

Also on another note, my father in law has a Randall 3060 and wants a new one as its making a strange noise all the time, so again, does anyone have any ideas as to which Honeywell timer would replace it?

Thanks

 

[jackhammerJIM]

bloody hell uksparks its a programmer . how many channels do you require for the heating system ?

 

[uksparks]

its a single channel.... I don't do heating controls as don't really fully understand how it all works so would rather not look a noob and do the wrong thing.

Just looking for a pointer really.

 

[jackhammerJIM]

if its only one channel you require then a one channel programmer will do the job . if you are using a honeywell one channel programmer don't forget to link common to terminal 1 on the backplate .

 

[Corbs]

any reason you changing the old randall? i would yes a drayton lifestyle single channel, easy to fit and easy to use for the customer, In regards to the in laws does he have any port valves? should be either a t shaped one with a box ontop or 2 inline ones with boxes ontop

 

[uksparks]

The old Randall 103 has packed up, the timer bit has anyway, so wants a new one, ok so the ST9100C should do it.

The father in law, I have no idea, but am going to look tomorrow afternoon, his is making a loud ticking noise constantly and not working properly, also the room stat is knackered, so will pop a new one on.

He has a back boiler so have no idea, I don't really know much about boilers anyway.

 

[uksparks]

I could replace the 3060 with a new one actually, a like for like instead of something else.

 

[Corbs]

The old Randall 103 has packed up, the timer bit has anyway, so wants a new one, ok so the ST9100C should do it.

The father in law, I have no idea, but am going to look tomorrow afternoon, his is making a loud ticking noise constantly and not working properly, also the room stat is knackered, so will pop a new one on.

He has a back boiler so have no idea, I don't really know much about boilers anyway.

you can still get the 103s so if you want an easy change or if the cliant wants a different one upto you but must be single channel,

take a pic of the in laws where the cylinder is should be two pipes in the side of it need to have a look for metal/brass boxes on them

single port/ s plan

2 port/ y plan

 

[uksparks]

Ok thank you, ill go and have a look tomorrow afternoon if I get time as going that way to do a job so will see.

Thanks again.

 

[davesparks]

Randall programmers are a swine as they done have the connection diagram on the back of them like most others do.

You will most likely have to trace and test the wiring on the backplate to work out what does what.

The easy one is the permanent live, should be identifiable with an AVI. Then identify the neutral.

After that we'll need to know the type of system to be able to find what the rest should be doing.

Personally I would say you are better off with Drayton LP programmers than Honeywell as they are simpler to use these days.

 

[uksparks]

Thanks dave, I'll take it apart and take some photos, I've got the manuals for them now so at least have a slight idea.

 

[davesparks]

Manuals for the randalls?

 

[Corbs]

Manuals for the randalls?

You asked you shall receive

http://www.leeds.gov.uk/docs/Boiler and Heating information - danfoss randall 103.pdf

 

[davesparks]

Invalid URL?

 

[uksparks]

It's ok I've got them thanks.

 

[davesparks]

I can't say I've ever looked for one or even thought about it actually.

I only think about it when I'm at the job and it's just as quick to trace the wiring of the whole system. Plus it's always better to confirm that the programmer is actually at fault, just because it makes an odd noise and the heating misbehaves it doesn't necessarily mean it is the programmer

 

[Corbs]

Invalid URL?

randall 103

try now

 

[driverman]

Thanks dave, I'll take it apart and take some photos, I've got the manuals for them now so at least have a slight idea.

Don't Randalls do an electronic one still? Years ago, it was just a case of removing the actual programmer itself leaving the back plate on the wall and replacing with new programmer. Job done 2mins.

 

[uksparks]

Well i went round there last night and looked and its barely ticking and he said its not too bad... typical!

Anyway, I changed the Randall 103 over this morning for a Honeywell ST9100C, worked a treat, wasnt a 100% which was to connect it as theres no stat and the manual is aimed more towards a combi with a stat.

 

[Thit Sar Naing]

I'm a new user so teach me how to improve learning in electrical installation.

 

[Corbs]

Well i went round there last night and looked and its barely ticking and he said its not too bad... typical!

Anyway, I changed the Randall 103 over this morning for a Honeywell ST9100C, worked a treat, wasnt a 100% which was to connect it as theres no stat and the manual is aimed more towards a combi with a stat.

they normaly do the brass washers and fingers get sh*-*-* up to hell and stop the mech working nice and free