Cooker hob installation question

[davesparks]

Quite often the linking bars are stacked up under one terminal ready for you to rearrange as necessary to suit your own needs.

 

[davesparks]

Hi other then the oven and the extractor (both with just bog standard 2.5mm twin &earth)

But yer anyway other then the issue with the hob, the only other electrical work I was meant to be doing for them was just running a spur of the ring main to allow them to use the washing machine which I don't really have a problem with, that's fairly straight forward (

rs

What's wrong with connecting an oven via 2.5mm T&E?

Are you qualified, registered and insured to carry out electrical work? Do you have the necessary test equipment to carry out the required tests and issue a certificate for installing said spur on the ring final?

 

[Midwest]

I think someone was just a bit bored on a Sunday evening, and decided to do a bit of trolling. :8:

 

[irrelevant name]

What's wrong with connecting an oven via 2.5mm T&E?

Are you qualified, registered and insured to carry out electrical work? Do you have the necessary test equipment to carry out the required tests and issue a certificate for installing said spur on the ring final?

When i was in college they taught us to use a heat resistant flex for cooker and hob installations and for a hob to use 6mm cable if it will fit but if not 4mm but there was a calculation to work it out exactly although I can't remember it I just asked a friend who's a sparky and he said the 4mm would be fine for the hob and the 2.5mm heat resistant would do for the oven but what the kitchen fitter has used is not heat resistant and as for the testing of the existing work I was taught to atleast use the basic testing procedures: continuity, polarity, continuity of CPC and insulation resistance and as far as fitting a spur goes I'm a plumber I have to fit spurs for various parts of my job (boilers, circ. Pumps immersion heaters etc.) And yes I do have the correct equipment to test circuits and insure they are safe and the basic common sense it takes to do visual inspections of the existing wiring and insure all the terminals are safely and correctly secured. As far as the certification of the work goes the customer isn't asking for any and if they do suddenly decide they want that then il get a sparky I know to come and inspect and test the work but it's very unlikely theyl want that. Iv done these other little jobs for them to help them out and save them some money but I'm not an idiot Im not prepared to ignore dangerous work another tradesman has done even when there is an easy way to shed any responsibility and do one.

 

[irrelevant name]

Make and model please

The make and model is a matrix MHC001 . I left the instruction book with the owner not that it contained any useful information anyway I jus wrote those details down in my note book that and that it was a 5.8 Kw

 

[Doomed]

http://www.matrixappliances.co.uk/_Downloads/Manuals/MHC001FR.pdf

Look at page 6 for the link arrangement, 2 links needed, also it should not be on a plug top, which means it should have its own isolator and supply (separate to the oven)

 

[davesparks]

When i was in college they taught us to use a heat resistant flex for cooker and hob installations and for a hob to use 6mm cable if it will fit but if not 4mm but there was a calculation to work it out exactly although I can't remember it I just asked a friend who's a sparky and he said the 4mm would be fine for the hob and the 2.5mm heat resistant would do for the oven but what the kitchen fitter has used is not heat resistant and as for the testing of the existing work I was taught to atleast use the basic testing procedures: continuity, polarity, continuity of CPC and insulation resistance and as far as fitting a spur goes I'm a plumber I have to fit spurs /QUOTE]

Well I prefer to work to the regulations which permit the use of T&E for the connection of cookers.
That is a ridiculous way to size a cable, using the biggest which fits!
Do you fit ferrules to the ends of the flex? Or do you just put an unprotected fine stranded conductor into screw terminals?
That's a start to testing, but without an earth fault loop impedance test how on earth are you going to know whether there is an earth there at all or if the fuse/mcb will operate? There's no point having a nice continuous CPC if it's not actually connected to earth.

You don't have to fit spurs,

 

[Doomed]

Do you fit ferrules to the ends of the flex? ,

Now, there is an interesting point.
With alot of oven and hobs they have cage clamp arrangements, so a ferrules is not needed, in fact sometimes I have found them more awkward in this situation and only use them on screw terminal normally.

 

[davesparks]

Now, there is an interesting point.
With alot of oven and hobs they have cage clamp arrangements, so a ferrules is not needed, in fact sometimes I have found them more awkward in this situation and only use them on screw terminal normally.

Unless there is proof that the terminal is designed for fine stranded conductors then you shouldn't assume that it is suitable.
Even though it's pretty damned obvious from looking at it as to whether or not it needs ferrules