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Fixing cables before dot and dab

Discuss Fixing cables before dot and dab in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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Hi guys,

Doing a kitchen refurb and adding and extending some sockets and extending the cooker circuit. Builder is going to dot and dab the walls next week just getting people’s opinions on the best method for fixing cables. Clipped direct to the wall or in oval tube or capped?
Also 25mm or 35mm boxes for the sockets and spurs?

Cheers
 
I capped a load of cables a while back just before the muck spreaders moved in.. “what you doing that for? The other spark didnt bother” - RAF then..
“Why have you put cardboard in all your boxes?” - beacause you are RAF :tearsofjoy:
Trouble with using conduit instead of capping is the sweating factor..
 
Yeah will use capping for the cables and 35mm boxes chased in about 10mm.
If jointing using wagos would it be ok to join them in the existing flush box and run the cables to the new box? Just thinking that once the walls are done the joints will no longer be accessible.
 
Plastic capping and 35mm KO boxes every single time

Capped if dot and dab, oval conduit if chasing out existing.

35mm boxes throughout, 47mm for cooker & switches.

Why 35mm boxes? They would jut out beyond the plasterboard? 25mm boxes seem to fit perfectly with dot and dab. Deeper boxes if the builder is using battens.
 
This all depends on the condition of the walls. I think 25mm boxes,with good walls and a plasterer who can,would be looking at you.
To judge what boxes and cable fixing method is suitable,you need to run a straight edge and level,across.

You can put in whatever you want....if the plasterer is rough,and the drywall adhesive keeps coming....
 
Think I’ll run the cables in and get the customer to call the plasterer tomorrow and see what he says.
For extending the cooker circuit I was going to mount a wago junction box with 733 6mm connectors fixed up to the ceiling joists. That way when the ceiling is boarded it won’t matter as it will be a mf connection. Or has anyone got a better method?

Thanks
 
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Thanks for all the replies. Have checked the customers fittings they have bought from wickes :expressionless: fittings specify minimum 35mm depth of box so that’s that sorted. Have traced all the socket and light cables so no need to extend any which is better. Just the cooker cable to joint now.
 
I had loads of hassles with the spreads on lots of jobs,
boxes far too back,cause their boarding was not uniform,boxes sticking out,rough cuts around the boxes.
Became a nightmare,especially with these new slim profile sockets,the ones that actually have 2 parts to them,& the actual front pushes satin chrome finish.
They come in herds now,& don’t care too much about anything .
 
and make sure you leave 5 cables in switch box 2 ft. longer than required, sharpie marked at ends, so boarders/spreads can cut then short and chuck the identified bits in the skip.
 

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