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Discuss Lighting Circuit Wiring in the DIY Electrical Advice area at ElectriciansForums.net

could do worse than DIY though. he could get a plumber or a builder to wire it.
 
i'd feed to the switch first, L and N, then take sw.l and n to the lights. saves all the joints for the perm. L.

Can anyone direct me to a diagram of this way of doing things? Just want to have it to hand while I actually do the work.
 
Can anyone direct me to a diagram of this way of doing things? Just want to have it to hand while I actually do the work.
Id hang onto that diagram to show the judge how you burnt your house down. Just get someone in who knows what they are doing pal it wont cost you a fortune and will be done safely and correctly and you will have a nice little certificate from the spark and from Labc to say so [emoji1]
 
feed the tingly cable from another permanent feed onthe lighting circuit. then feed cables to the new lights. connect to existing tingly cables with a switch. then they all tingly and the lights work. if you get it wrong, they still tingly, lights don't work, your wife and kids are fried. you're in front of the man in the silly wig, then you go to a place where you don't bend down to pick up the soap.
 
Why does this forum have a DIY forum that people reply to? Surely easier to set up something that replies to every thread automatically telling them they are too stupid to do whatever they are trying to do and to instead pay an electrician.
 
I think its already been said several times, you want to avoid any buried junctions (Wago or otherwise, much though I like them), you can have all the connections in the switch box. You could run the cable from each light to the switch box, or daisy chain them (which doesn't always work well with some fittings that only have room for one cable entry). Cable is cheap, if you've run out then just get some more, rather than attempt to join sections of cable. If you've got a chase for a cable, it is trivial to make it wide enough for 2 or 3 cables. I think the negative comments are due to you still wanting to do it another way.
 
I think the negative comments are due to you still wanting to do it another way.

I don't want to do it another way, since post number #10 on the first page of this thread I changed my opinion and said:

OK, fair enough. So what should I do about the feed cable, given its length and position, just connect a new cable to it with the Wago connectors?

Maybe it wasn't clear that I was planning on following the methodology laid out in the first few replies I was given, but it should have been given I asked for a diagram of how it should be done, just so I am sure I am on the same page.

Not really sure why I have been persuaded to change everything I had already done, then when I ask for more clarification all I get is jokes about how I will burn my house down. I appreciate that my first way of doing it wasn't the 'ideal' way but it wasn't wrong or dangerous, correct?

I am a very competent DIY'er and don't really believe it should require me to shell out £50+ for someone to come round for 5 minutes work, considering all the cables are run and even the individual wires stripped at this point.
 
I don't want to do it another way, since post number #10 on the first page of this thread I changed my opinion and said:



Maybe it wasn't clear that I was planning on following the methodology laid out in the first few replies I was given, but it should have been given I asked for a diagram of how it should be done, just so I am sure I am on the same page.

Not really sure why I have been persuaded to change everything I had already done, then when I ask for more clarification all I get is jokes about how I will burn my house down. I appreciate that my first way of doing it wasn't the 'ideal' way but it wasn't wrong or dangerous, correct?

I am a very competent DIY'er and don't really believe it should require me to shell out £50+ for someone to come round for 5 minutes work, considering all the cables are run and even the individual wires stripped at this point.

But as Pete pointed out its more than likely notifiable work and if your not willing to pay out £50 for an electrician then you definitely wont be paying £250 plus for the LABC to have your work inspected and tested.
 
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The principal reason for the forum is for sparks to share information with each other.

The DIY thread was created to answer minor issues and not be a step by step guide for Joe Public - you need to appreciate that the majority of us are self employed so giving away information isn't really in our interests......

As for 5 minutes work - there is more to it than that and the testing and certification takes far longer, and if this work falls under Part P - then that takes time too.

Who is to say that your current set up is up to standard and doesn't need some basic improvements too?
 
As a VERY competent electrical diyer perhaps you could tell us what tests and inspection you will complete prior to and after you proceed with this project and which test equipment you own to partake the required tests.
 

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