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Discuss Power to outbuilding- Consequences of extraneous-conductive-parts on choice of SWA size in the DIY Electrical Advice area at ElectriciansForums.net

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I realise this is a much-discussed topic, I have certainly read a lot on the forums already! However I wish to ask about the subtitles of earthling the outbuilding and the cost/practicality consequences.

The outbuilding (a DIY’s workshop) will have one socket ring and two lighting radials. I wish to install a garage CU, this one probably: British General 5-Module 3-Way Populated Garage Consumer Unit - https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/british-general-5-module-3-way-populated-garage-consumer-unit/1926g

The shed has some metal parts (sheets of powder-coated steel cladding) but 1) I cannot foresee any situation where I could be touching exposed metal and 2) they are not at earth, being on a timber frame. So, I think it qualifies as “no extraneous-conductive-parts”.

This being the case, and because I am TNC-S, I would rather run power out on SWA from my house, using a spare way on the house’s CU. I think I am on TN-S. (I can clearly see the earth bonded to the sheath/armour of the incoming supply).

The outbuilding is 25m away, so to comply with voltage drop regs for the lighting ring I was going to use 3-core, 6mm^2. I.E bring the protective conductor to the outbuilding on 6mm^2.

6mm^2 is certainly adequate current wise.

But what about the earthling? If in the future I decide to bond the cladding I need to be at 10mm^2 to comply. To help the cost I have the option of bring the SWA into the house at a different point (via a rated junction box) and go 10 meters inside, under the floorboards. But I cannot use 10mm^2 ‘twin and earth’ because the earth is always smaller than the earth. At the point I have to use 10mm T&E and run 10mm green/yellow cable too. I can do it but it’s become a little bit complicated and very expensive.

So I think I have these choices.

1) Treat the install as no extraneous-conductive-parts, run my 3-core 6mm SWA all the way from house CU to outbuilding.

2) Treat it as having extraneous-conductive-parts and run 10mm^2 SWA (with some extra 10mm plus T&E in the house)

3) Use and earthling rod and make a TT system at the outbuilding. Almost all the forums I have read seem pretty negative about this, citing changeable ground conditions and high impedance.

I think there my choice all hangs on the no extraneous-conductive-parts definition, and if yes there is a substantial increase in cost and complexity.

I have read a lot of the forum debate on this, and I don’t want to open a can of worms. I read the guide by John Ware (2005) and enjoyed sinewave’s “The Ultimate PME/TNS Exportation! by Sinewave“. (A good guide For 'exported PME' and outbuildings! - https://www.electriciansforums.co.uk/threads/a-good-guide-for-exported-pme-and-outbuildings.28159/page-2) . I also watched most of John Ward’s stuff but am still not 100% clear.

Please, any/all advice appreciated. I think I ‘know the answer – I have to 10mm everything to be safe.


Dan
 
Hi Dan,

First up, I'm guessing that as you've got no electrical qualifications listed in your profile you're not an electrician, in which case some of what I'm about to advise may be of no use.

Guidance Note 8 from the IET covers earthing and bonding, along with the tests you should carry out to establish whether or not a piece of metal work should be considered an extraneous conductive part or not.

If you're not a spark, you're not going to have the kit to properly establish this and given your life (and potentially the lives of others) may depend on this, you shouldn't be making assumptions about whether an item needs to be bonded or not.

As you're in England, you're subject to the 2013 edition of Part P of the building regs, which allows for Third Party Certification. This means you can engage the services of a Third Party Certifier who will design the installation, instruct you how to install it (and check it as you progress) and then they can certify it and sign it off. This approach may save you money, but ultimately my advice is engage the services of a qualified electrician sooner rather than later.
 
Hi SparkyChick, buzzlightyear,


Thank you for taking time to help me, it is appreciated! I thought placing this in the DIY thread was the right place, sorry if I wasn’t clear on my lack of skill. No training, (electronics doesn’t count here !), just a little too ambitious and hoping for some help.

I like the idea of the third part certification. I should say that it is urgent for me to decide the SWA (and therefore the earthing system) as the groundwork is being done now. Getting an electrician to connect the CU’s will happen sometime next year. I think this might open a can of forum worms, so let me be specific.


Am I right in thinking the choice of CSA (be it 10mm or 6mm or whatever is adequate for the intended load) is critically dependant on if you have to bond extraneous conductive part or not.


The 2nd question, if you are using 3-core at 10mm, and want to take this indoors, what do you use as twin&earth is not big enough.


Really appreciate all advice and please take it as 100% registered that I need a proper electrician else it’s a real risk.


Best


Dan
 
Hi, fellow DIYer here who did something similar a few years ago. In my case the electrician selected and supplied the SWA, then was happy for me to do the excavation and burial. Alternatively if you can't engage your electrician first, how about burying a duct with draw cord just now, then the correct spec cable can be pulled in when the time comes.
 
I would find your friendly spark now .............. get him involved and get the cable in

Or simply bury some duct with strong cord through it or 2.5mm single cable ............... string is not strong enough and WILL perish quite quickly.
 
I like the idea of the third part certification.

Its threads like this that confirm to me why I'll never get involved in 3rd party certification.

Best you get LABC involved, they will relieve you of a couple of hundred, or more and should inspect at each stage. You would still need to accept responsibility for the design, they won't advise, and if you get it wrong, you'll have to do it again.
 
Best thing the niceic did was not to get involved in that nonsense in England
 

Reply to Power to outbuilding- Consequences of extraneous-conductive-parts on choice of SWA size in the DIY Electrical Advice area at ElectriciansForums.net

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