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SWITCHED DOUBLE SOCKET HELP?! - MUCH APPRECIATED

Discuss SWITCHED DOUBLE SOCKET HELP?! - MUCH APPRECIATED in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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Hi Guys,

I am currently getting a kitchen overhaul and want to install some unit/kick-board lights. I want to be able to control the unit lights with the light-switch which controls the down-lights in the kitchen ceiling. I have swapped the switch out for a double switch.

The lights have came for the units but they require a plug socket. Currently i have created a double plug socket with a plastic external backbox which i have wired slightly different. I have attached a diagram of how this is currently wired up. The source of electricity (yellow spark in the diagram) is basically just an added spur from an existing socket. I have then decided to wire the live wire directly to the light-switch and a 'switched live' coming from the light switch going back to the 'L' part of the plug socket. Hopefully the diagram will better explain this.

My questions are, is this safe to do so, or is there an easier way to accomplish what i am trying to do? As i know you should never create a plug socket spur from a lighting circuit as they are rated differently. So am i creating any potential risk by adding the 2 circuits in a single back-box for the light-switch even though they don't actually come into contact with eachother as they will be wired to different individual switches on the same faceplate. Also, what is the situation with the earth cables for this setup? The backbox is a plastic dry-wall one so there is no earthing to be done for the back box. So would i combine the 2 earth cables into the same earth-lug on the metal faceplate of the lightswitch?

Any advice is much appreciated.

P.S i do not want to hear how i should be calling a qualified electrician in to do the job, i am simply just asking for advice and trying to educate myself in this sector. So those statements are irrelevant.

Thanks in advance!
diasgram.PNG
 
I do not understand your response, the socket is wired correctly from a 30 Amp ring main, only difference is the live is going to a switch so that the live can be switched on and off. The socket would work fine if the live was wired directly to the 'L' port rather than the switch. SO what is the issue?
You're drawing shows no sign of any ring circuit cables. Is it spurred? .... it's not a field you should be 'educating yourself' in. Various regulations apply.
 
I wouldn’t recommend this at all. You are mixing 2 circuits I.e. your lighting circuit and your socket circuit in 1 switch. It is unlikely but not impossible where you could have a fault whereby your lighting circuit ends up protected by a 32A MCB which would not protect a 1.5mm cable. It is just bad practice and as someone else said could be a mine field for someone else fault finding in the future. There will be much better ways of doing this.

...Or a straightened out paper-clip? You would need to pull & view,to know...
 
@Callum Thomas
My suspicion is that you have asked an electrician to do this job and they have told you that to alter the wiring in your kitchen would require changing the old fuse box. Therefore you are trying to do it yourself. Am I correct? There are good reasons why most electricians wouldn't do the job without bringing it up to current standards.
 
@Callum Thomas
My suspicion is that you have asked an electrician to do this job and they have told you that to alter the wiring in your kitchen would require changing the old fuse box. Therefore you are trying to do it yourself. Am I correct? There are good reasons why most electricians wouldn't do the job without bringing it up to current standards.

No, 2 electricians have looked at this job, confirmed it to be possible and haven't even asked to look at the consumer unit. Can't see why the old style fuse box would prevent this from being done, other than the fact it doesn't meet current standards.
 
I wouldn’t recommend this at all. You are mixing 2 circuits I.e. your lighting circuit and your socket circuit in 1 switch. It is unlikely but not impossible where you could have a fault whereby your lighting circuit ends up protected by a 32A MCB which would not protect a 1.5mm cable.
.....30 amp 3036
 
Hi OP. You are breaking a few regs. No I'm not going to explain them.
Yes, get an electrician in. What you are planning is incorrect.
Yes, you won't like my reply, but I'm an engineer and I'm just direct in my nature. I can't be a polite as others on here.. I will tell you as it is, without mollycoddling you.
 
They obviously had their on ways of doing this in mind. However, they didn't share that information with me. Leading me to create my own idea. If you can suggest a way of how YOU would do this job, feel free to share this information

I would get an electrician in, as I don't have the test equipment to test the circuit afterwards. They will also be able to get all the parts needed cheaper than me.
 
From what I can see the existing consumer unit does not have additional rcd protection although it could be out of shot. He is also proposing switching a two gang socket from a 6/10A light switch. If both these are correct then no one can condone these methods. The OP has probably decided this is the way forward so the thread should be locked.
 
You were told to leave the post in #9.

I'm sure the OP will tell me to leave as well, when he reads my comments... :tearsofjoy::tearsofjoy:
I'm staying until one of the MODS do the sensible thing and close the thread. The OP doesn't want to listed.
I do like @Strima idea in post #48... Nice and safe.
 
From what I can see the existing consumer unit does not have additional rcd protection although it could be out of shot. He is also proposing switching a two gang socket from a 6/10A light switch. If both these are correct then no one can condone these methods. The OP has probably decided this is the way forward so the thread should be locked.
Should of reported it so we could pick it up...I've now locked the thread as I'm in total agreement with you :thumbsup:
 

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