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Discuss Best CCU is Schneider...Oh no it isn't. Anyone tried Chintz? in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

Marti

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I know I'm going to regret askin' but I never learn so here are two contentious question in one.
The best CCU, and by "best" I mean plenty of installation room, good quality screw fixings and reliable RCDs / RCBOs. Personally, I still like Schneider; maybe because that's what I trained on. The high price has minimal impact on the final invoice but maybe I'm fooling myself?

Separately, Has anyone tried Chintz from Screwfix? Saw them at the electrician's Show (not difficult to find, no bloody stands this year) and they appeared to be good quality but I know only fitting a few will tell and that's customer service risk. I did run a search in here as I assumed this question had been done to death but no luck.

Now, who's got my tin 'at!
 
Not a lot to choose between them nowadays. Pay your money take your choice. No problem with Chint but trying to get SPDs etc if same brand is not always easy as wholesalers don’t always stock everything. Plus when you need to find arc protection in the future how easy will it be then and still keep to the price point. Save money on one part and get hammered on something else it’s life. Time for another Brandy
 
Some good points on the Chintz. I tried CEF's Proton or something. Cramped and awkward case. Might try one in a garage or similar. I'll take a look at the Hager since they seem to have the gold star.
 
Quite like the denmans curve range of boards. Got the extra height for rcbos. Uses steeple mcbs, rcds etc... really good if not using rcbos as you then got plenty of room to make it look pretty if thats your thing.
Its well priced too which is always a good thing. If customer will pay i use hager but will avoid bg as they never line up well
 
I was in Screwfix the other day and the bloke always tries telling me about their latest offers. Normally I'm not interested as only get back-boxes and cable from there, but he mentioned they had got rid of Schneider boards and got Eaton in instead.
Never fitted Eaton but I have a feeling from somewhere that it is half decent gear. Any thoughts on Eaton appreciated.
I like the 'new' rigid neutral links on the chint boards, old school and makes a board look so much neater. I am a Hager ----- generally though.
 
A quick search suggests the Hagers are not as expensive as I expected. May pop into TLC and take a look although they don't have a branch usefully close to me.
 
A lot of the cheaper or low-end boards,can be tolerated and fitted quite tidily,with a bit of internal dressing,and -----prepping,of a section of surface-plate flat wall:rolleyes:

I know,this should not be extra duties,after paying a manufacturing company to do so....but here we are,welcome to 21st century,where repairing/improving a newly delivered product,is the norm....or fight the long fight warranty,refund wise...

It does not seem to matter,who supplies,or how much is spent,you will sooner or later be expected to assume the toe-touching position,and await incoming....

My rant, may be the result of the 7 weeks of physical,mental and actual torture,Victorian Plumbing have put me through,like i was in final assessment for a career in special forces....purely due to the over-priced radiator they delivered,looking like a dinosaur had chewed it:(:eek::rolleyes:...

....Gonna shout the missus...see if we have any crystal-meth left...
 
A quick search suggests the Hagers are not as expensive as I expected. May pop into TLC and take a look although they don't have a branch usefully close to me.
You won't go wrong with either Hager or Crabtree. The Crabtree Starbreaker is slot fit so no breakers to torque up.

PS. To the busbar that is.
 
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Moving on and maybe a thread of its own but have a need soon for a Amd3 (domestic) 3ph board.
Any experience/recommendations?
 
Surely a standard 3 phase board with a steel door not a glass one would be satisfactory. Only issue I see is that the doors are side hinged not top hinged, but what are you realistically supposed to do about that?!
I guess you could spring load the door somehow so it shuts by itself, sounds tedious though!
 
Not sure what the difference is, maybe the housing is welded?
The door could be an issue but have come across 1ph (possibly BG) boards where the cover is hinged at the bottom (so not self closing) but still old as Amd3!
 
Beg to differ, Schneider and Hager (Part No JK116BA3) are 2 that I've found, just wondered members had come across/used anything else

Interesting .......

Its an invicta board with a different door . Makes a mockery of all the other manufacturers who have the drop down door .

And if the door doesn't close itself what is the point in it being metal
 
Interesting .......

Its an invicta board with a different door . Makes a mockery of all the other manufacturers who have the drop down door .

And if the door doesn't close itself what is the point in it being metal

They have catches as standard and can be fitted with locks. A gravity closing door is not a requirement of the product standard or the regulations as far as I am aware. I have seen amd3 compliant bottom hinged CUs.
 
Fitted my first Schneider easi9 today. It was huge, build quality seemed good. Took me a minute to understand what was going on the RCCB leads:rolleyes: Fitted a Chint 5 years ago. It was Ok but havent fitted one since.
 
I looked at a Chint domestic board at Elex a while ago. Seemed ok. I’d never ever use one because when I see the logo all I see is C U Next Tuesday, and I wouldn’t have it in my house so why should I expect my customers to?
The Schneider Easy9 is an ok board, but I’ve been installing all RCBO boards for some time now and they’re just not geared up for that. Lewden & Hager for me. I do like Crabtree, but my usual wholesaler doesn’t stock them.
 
try getting 12 2.5mm T/E cables up past the left hand N bar on an easy9.
 
Only time I saw a chint install I was testing it for an EICR and lost every one of the RCBOs blew up when I tested them. I had to go back and replace at least 80% of all the RCBOs that were in the board.
I'd never use Chint.
 
Same company as MCG from cef which is the second worst board I've ever fitted with only proteus behind, so wouldn't touch them at all
 
Only time I saw a chint install I was testing it for an EICR and lost every one of the RCBOs blew up when I tested them. I had to go back and replace at least 80% of all the RCBOs that were in the board.
I'd never use Chint.
what did you test them with.... a hammer???
 
Only time I saw a chint install I was testing it for an EICR and lost every one of the RCBOs blew up when I tested them. I had to go back and replace at least 80% of all the RCBOs that were in the board.
I'd never use Chint.

What tests were you doing when this happened?
 
We've used Chint for 6 months now. We have fitted over 100 boards, we have never had one single failure of any component.
We got stuck last week and fitted an MK board. Absolutely horrible after using chint. Prices are exactly the same too.
Our inspector recommended solid links on a TT system (without a main time delay RCD) therefore Chint was the only make I could get at the time with the solid links, These solid links IMO are WAY higher quality that any board sporting the shitty flexible (messy) links.
 

Reply to Best CCU is Schneider...Oh no it isn't. Anyone tried Chintz? in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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