Discuss Buried SWA cable fault finding in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

I will start to assemble the test rig tomorrow afternoon. I assume you have some jump leads to connect a 12 V battery to my board and a digital voltmeter able to read 12V dc. As the cable is 25mm2 I will arrange to produce some pulses of current of the order 70 to 80 Amps so that a volt drop of a few volts is produced along the red or yellow conductor. I am using twenty or so 12V 50W halogen lamps as my power resistors so you will need to wear some sunglasses when it pulses the current!
 
Good. One last question - what is the settling time of your dvm? Ie, if you measure the terminal voltage of one of the 12V batteries how many seconds from making contact before the digital readout remains constant?
 
Can you video this testing out of interest?

Also it would be interesting to compare the measurement results of a couple of methods to see how closely they agree, and potentially to compare that to where the fault is finally located if the cable is dug up at some point.
 
Semi-related interesting video.... I'm not suggesting this is the way forwards but it's VERY cool....
With external power source (up to 40v before resistors needed) this would actually do the Varley test as far as I can see.
 
Prototype 12V 25A load.
 

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This test rig is a demonstrator not some finished item of test equipment so its construction is economic using many items just gathering dust in my man shed.

The interesting aspect of this project for me is not so much the method which is long established it is actually doing it practically. The hardest part of it is finding a cheap way to load up a 12V battery to cause a current of the order of 75 Amps to flow without everything bursting into flames or becoming a molten mess. In other words the power resistors. Hence my use of 12V 50W g6 halogens. The nice thing about these is that once lit their current is quickly constant during the test unlike using other resistors - and cheap.

Nevertheless, there will be 18 x 50W halogens lit producing mostly heat and some light - nearly a kW. You can see from the image I posted that I used cheap connector blocks - I could not find online a way of buying a score of g6 lampholder with leads without spending a small fortune. So I improvised. But by only having them on for a few seconds and then ensuring an interval of at least a minute before they next light I intend to ensure this does not happen.

I have some electronic components to mix together to produce a circuit which will pulse a current through the cable, alternate the dvm between the near and far end of the cable and have a limitation on the minimum interval between pulses of current - I have in mind 60 seconds and 5 seconds for freddo to take the two readings. He will press a button and then one pulse of current will occur to take the voltage measurements; then a wait of 60 seconds before another pulse can happen.

In an experiment it is normal practice to repeat measurements in order to deal with the inevitable errors and noise present. If it was me I would repeat the testing ten times to see if the results were consistent.

Our Jack Russell puppy is being sick so I must stop now.
 
#62 reminds me of our Glaswegian lecturer in electrical engineering science, who if you interrupted him during a lecture and asked him a question had the stock answer - 'd'ya knaw listna tu ma lecktures?' - and then he carried on with the lecture.

(With apologies to all Glaswegians for any failure to represent in italics how he said it).
 
I'd probably cheat and use AC, having checked what error the cable inductance is likely to cause (top of head it's very small.) Wrap a couple of turns of 16mm through any hollow-centre toroidal transformer to make a secondary and wind it up on a variac, or ballast the primary with a suitable lamp. Any decent pot to make a bridge, use multimeter to find the null then read off the pot resistance ratio out of circuit.

Of course it would be better to fetch the bridge test set but that's far away in deep storage.
 
@Lucien Nunes in my vast pile of junk I'm sure I have a post-office test box. I acquired it as a curious item that looked nice and never twigged it's purpose, but this thread suddenly resulted in a light-bulb moment and I realised that all along I had a bridge in a box without realising it.
In theory, assuming I find it, would a DC multimeter work instead of a proper galvanometer?
It's a bit like this one (from memory)
1631646407147.png
 
in my cave i have a bridge megger. could this help . it's finer functions are beyond my old brain these days.
Noting @pc1966 's comments earlier in this thread about the Varley test's shortcomings, yes, I recently discovered the Megger Bridge series were designed to conduct Varley and sometimes Murray tests. Is it either of these:
1631721599214.png

1631721645830.png
 
freddo: Do you have a preferred first test on the cable? If you do I will jot down a test schedule including how to connect 'what to what'. Otherwise I will decide.

Do you think 5ish seconds for one voltage measurement immediately followed by 5ish seconds for another will give you enough time to read your dvm and then record the values?

Looking at my little video clip I am minded to allow 5ish seconds for the current to settle before the voltage measurements are taken.

The test routine would be: Press a button - wait 5 seconds - in the next 5 seconds interval take a voltage reading - and then in the final 5 seconds interval take a second voltage measurement.

In practice - press a button - watch the dvm until it is settled - record the value - and then when you hear the click of a relay operate wait until the dvm is again settled - record the value.
 
xame as the 2nd pic.
Yeah, that one does the Varley test. Don't know if yours still has this plate on it (from an ebay picture):
1631731558460.png

From what I gather, when in Bridge mode it measures resistance between EARTH and LINE, you crank the handle and adjust the ratio and the 4 digit values - I think the needle at infinity position shows you have it right. (I'm not sure how it indicates higher or lower, other models use a galvanometer and the needle moves both ways to show.) Then repeat with Varley position which measures between Earth and Varley terminals and do the maths shown.
 
freddo: Do you have a preferred first test on the cable? If you do I will jot down a test schedule including how to connect 'what to what'. Otherwise I will decide.

Do you think 5ish seconds for one voltage measurement immediately followed by 5ish seconds for another will give you enough time to read your dvm and then record the values?

Looking at my little video clip I am minded to allow 5ish seconds for the current to settle before the voltage measurements are taken.

The test routine would be: Press a button - wait 5 seconds - in the next 5 seconds interval take a voltage reading - and then in the final 5 seconds interval take a second voltage measurement.

In practice - press a button - watch the dvm until it is settled - record the value - and then when you hear the click of a relay operate wait until the dvm is again settled - record the value.
No preferred test. Yes those times sound practical.
 
Test rig completed. The 3 gold test resistors are so freddo can check the rig works on arrival. The I button pulses the test current and the near/far button switches the voltmeter between near and far ends of cable.
 

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Hi all,

My first post here, thought I'd see if it was possible to get some advice or tips...

Basically, I had a large amount of block paving and large concrete base laid at the far end (25m) of my garden a few months ago. Under this I had 3 core 16mm SWA laid.

(I most definitely can't vouch for the quality of the work done by any of these guys)

More recently me and my brother built a large garage on the concrete base and had an electrician add a new CU in the garage and connect the other end of the SWA to an MCB in the CU in the house.

Today, after about 2 weeks of not having any problems, the RCD in the house tripped out and wouldn't switch back on unless I turned off the MCB to the garage. It's worth noting, it rained fairly heavily last night.

After trying a few different things, I've eventually disconnected the SWA from the CUs at both ends.

I've tested for continuity across all cable/ armour combinations and noticed there's continuity (beeping) when I touch the live and armour.

Is my assumption that someone has damaged the cable, breaking the live wire insulation and water has entered this and created a circuit between the live and the armour a reasonable one? Are there any other ways this continuity could occur given both ends are now fully disconnected?

Assuming this assumption is correct, I'm curious if there's a simple way for me to locate this fault without digging up 30m of block paving?

For example, I was wondering if, by using a multimeter and testing the resistance across the live and armour at both ends I might be able to work out how far down the wire the break is?

So maybe if I got a resistance 10 times higher at one end than the other I can assume the damage to the 25m long cable is 10% (2.5m) from the end of the cable with lower reading?

I guess I don't need to be super accurate and that there are industrial tools that could accurately locate the fault, all I really want to know is roughly were to start digging in the hope of keeping the damage to the paving to a minimum.

Thanks in advance for any help or suggestions.

Dan
Heres my penny worth, before you test the cable, make sure there is nothing on the cable both ends, remove all glands from the cable, separate the cores and splay the armour strands out & away from the cores. For testing you need a good insulation resistance tester - if you dont know what one is & how to use it, then my strong advice is to Hire another Electrician to test the cable. Sadly most sparks i know would have undoubtedly layed this cable in a duct, which enables easy replacement, but mainly saves any damage. However you may be lucky.......I genuinely hope you are and its a silly termination fault.
 
Blimey, I've just seen this - what a brilliant thread ?.
It's great to learn new stuff. And I thought you only wanted that high-current low voltage source to burn off the fault then pretend it was never there, like I once saw an old electrician do with swarf somewhere in a MICC circuit ?. Maybe that was standard practice in the 60's.
 
Update: Freddo has been very busy but managed to attend the sports ground with the defective swa cable last weekend. We had some conversations on my test rig and how to use it in the private area which I have copied below:

testfreddo.jpg


Good morning. A 25mm2 conductor has a resistance of 0.000727 Ohms/m. When a current of circa 75A flows through it the voltage drop is 75 x 0.000727 = 0.055V/m. Not much. A 40m length of 25mm2 conductor will drop a voltage of 40 x 0.055 = 2.2V Thus when you measure the near and far voltages with your dvm you will need to drop down in range scale in order to obtain the necessary resolution. My dvm has a 2000mV range which would be ideal for example.

We are using a variation of the 4 wire resistance measurement method. It is important that the 'voltage sense' connections are on the 'outside' of the near and far current loop connections. See para 2 of :

4 Wire Testing | Resistance Measurement to within 1mΩ | How-To - https://www.camiresearch.com/Campaigns/Web-Articles/4-wire-testing.html

So at the far end the Henley is wired with the middle terminal to black and right to red - the current loop - and the sense connection blue is made to the left of the black to the middle terminal.

A nice feature of this set up is that the near readings will be negative voltages and the far ones positive due to the negative terminal of the dvm being connected to the point of fault. You should see this when you do the on arrival survival tests with the three 3.3R test resistors.

After measuring R-Y, I recommend you swap the SWA for the Yellow and take the R-SWA measurement. Finally swap the Yellow for the Red and take the Y-SWA measurement.

You need to know the length of the cable in order to use the data to divide it into near and far. Say Near is 250mV Far is 1850mV Distance to fault from start of cable is length of cable x 250/(250 + 1850). My example in the image indicates the cable is damaged only in one place. The most likely region is as I have shown.

When I have the voltage measurements I will do the sums.
 

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