Convert 110V Waffle Iron to 220V

[Billebaars]

Hi all,

I recently purchased a Chef's Choice Cone Maker 838, which is a fairly basic waffle iron. The problem is, that as it is a product from the USA its operating voltage is 120V at 60Hz and 1050 Watt (these are probably the max values). Would there be any way of converting this to the UK 220V as this machine will probably fry when hooked up unmodified.

The iron is probably no more than a heating element with a thermostat, similar to a toaster. Would simply replacing the resistor element in the thermostat suffice? There are also two lights on it, but I don't mind if they break.

A step down voltage converter is too expensive for what it's worth, perhaps anybody could suggest a cheaper converter for this power output as cycles and ac/dc are of no importance to the waffle iron.

Thanks

 

[Marvo]

If the appliance has a top and bottom element of similar Kw ratings you could wire the elements in series for 230v operation if they're in parallel for 110v running. The indicator lamps I would just replace with 230v items. If he thermostat is a standard switch type with common/norm open/norm closed terminals then voltage shouldn't make a difference.

 

[Billebaars]

That's a great idea, will give it a try. Thanks

 

[Billebaars]

Unfortunately the elements are wired serially and rated at 500W each (1000W/2). The thermostat is a simple bimetal element (same as a toaster), so I was thinking of attaching a resistor at the input with the aim to reduce the current while operating at the same voltage in order to keep the power at ~1000W.

Should I apply I=V^2/R or I=V/R here? In addition, would this work at all? (I'm no prof electrician, working on first-year college physics here).

Many thanks

 

[MarkieSparkie]

A resistor is not a viable option because you would have to dissipate another 1000w in series with the Waffle iron. Effectively a 1Kw radiant heater would work as a voltage dropper, but dangerous, wasteful and inelegant.
The only sensible solution is a step-down transformer (230-110V), a portable "yellow brick" site transformer rated at 1.5kVA would be suitable, Screwfix 61847 @ £51-06 for example, but there are better deals available elsewhere if you Google.

 

[Marvo]

Unfortunately the elements are wired serially and rated at 500W each (1000W/2).

Are you sure the elements are already in series for 110v operation? That means the elements would actually get 55 volts each if there's two of them. This doesn't sound right.

..........I was thinking of attaching a resistor at the input with the aim to reduce the current while operating at the same voltage in order to keep the power at ~1000W.

Should I apply I=V^2/R or I=V/R here? In addition, would this work at all? (I'm no prof electrician, working on first-year college physics here).

Many thanks

I agree that you can't add a resistor as a voltage divider. You would need a massive power resistor and it would produce the same amount of heat as the element so it's not a viable option.

Depending on the heat density of the element surface at 110v and the tube material there's a slim chance it might work at 220 volts. Obviously the current draw and therefore heat output would be higher but the final temp of the cooking plates is determined by the thermostat so that should be a constant. I would do some careful experimentation if you have no other options. Temperature overrun after the t/stat has reached temp might be a problem with the higher element output but you could possibly compensate with the differential settings but like I said it's a last resort/slim chance.

 

[Steve1412]

Is it not possible to source a similar element rated at 230v?

 

[ian.settle1]

Sounds like it would have been cheaper to by one that works on 230v

 

[Billebaars]

Thanks for the replies, guys. I'll double check on the wiring, but I'm pretty sure it was in series. As for the elements, they are quite thick, which means they probably should hold at 220v. Not sure about the wires though, might replace the important ones and add a 4 or 6 amp fuse to the plug. As for the getting a 220v waffle iron, unfortunately this particular model is only in 110v. Will let you know how it goes.

 

[ian.settle1]

Does it have a CE mark by the way, as if it doesn't then you will be taking responsibility should anyone gets injured in court should the HSE come calling.

 

[Billebaars]

Plugged in the iron with 13A fuse (it burnt out a 3A and 5A fuse). It seems to work well and the thermostat cuts of the power before the plates get too hot. The elements are thick horse-shoe shaped pieces of aluminium, so I don't think they will burn out easily. Bit more worried about the thermostat, but this can be replaced. It does seem to be drawing alot of power when it is heating (gets hot really quick, lights dim) Gonna give it a few test runs to see if it will hold out.

Thanks for the advice guys

 

[pushrod]

More importantly have you got a good recipe for Belgian waffles

 

[Billebaars]

As expected, after frequent use on 220V, the waffle iron finally failed. I've isolated the failure down to a single part in the machine. I think it is a bimetal thermostat, but I'm not sure. I have posted up some pictures of the part. The first three pictures are of what I suspect is the broken part (tested it, no current running through it)
The final picture is that of what I am pretty sure is an adjustable bimetal thermostat (it can be adjusted with the setting dial).

My question is also: how do I fix this? Could I perhaps simply by-pass it and rely on the adjustable thermostat?

Thanks for your help.

 

[telectrix]

3kva site tranny 230/110v is the cheapest option. also, as the max. voltage wrt earth is 55v, safety is sorted. could waffle on for hours, but IMO< that's the easiest solution.

 

[Billebaars]

More importantly have you got a good recipe for Belgian waffles

Here's a good one: Classic Belgian Waffles Recipe : Emeril Lagasse : Food Network

I'd advise you to use realy yeast instead of baking powder and use pearl sugar!

 

[Billebaars]

3kva site tranny 230/110v is the cheapest option. also, as the max. voltage wrt earth is 55v, safety is sorted. could waffle on for hours, but IMO< that's the easiest solution.

Might invest in one of those, but would you have any suggestions in fixing the waffle iron?

thnx

 

[pushrod]

I notice that on a couple of pics you can see 500W and 115V

Using R= V²/P
you get a resistance of approx 26Ω
It would have been taking about 9A when working - so not surprising that it quickly burnt out those 3 and 5A fuses.

This will be the resistance that you should have end to end on the heating element. Test that with a resistance meter to check it out. No reading at all and the element has gone. Any continuity between the L to E, or N to E and it has also gone.

The real advice, however, is to try out the Belgian Waffles that Aldi sell - 6 for 99p. They are individually wrapped and are brill with maple syrup. I had been looking for a waffle iron but gave up when i tasted them - no way could you make anything as good

 

[pushrod]

Here's a good one: Classic Belgian Waffles Recipe : Emeril Lagasse : Food Network

I'd advise you to use realy yeast instead of baking powder and use pearl sugar!

Is pearl sugar also known as sugar nibs - like little bits of sugar the size of match heads
cos i tried that and tried real yeast, as well as baking powder recipes, and a splash of rum, tried all sorts but couldn't get near those aldi ones!

 

[Billebaars]

The heating element's are actually fine (surprising enough). Everything has survived the high voltage and current, just, seemingly, not this part (I've tested all the circuits). The fuses are fine too (have been using 13A).
I wouldn't be wasting my time with this machine, if it weren't for the fact that it was the only one that I could obtain that can make specific kind of waffles (namely Dutch syrup waffles).
Would you have any idea what the part is that is broken?

Cheers

 

[pushrod]

The heating element's are actually fine (surprising enough). Everything has survived the high voltage and current, just, seemingly, not this part (I've tested all the circuits). The fuses are fine too (have been using 13A).
I wouldn't be wasting my time with this machine, if it weren't for the fact that it was the only one that I could obtain that can make specific kind of waffles (namely Dutch syrup waffles).
Would you have any idea what the part is that is broken?


Cheers

Can't really make out what it is doing from the pics? Mind no expert on recognising little thingmebobs! Is there anything on the other side of it? It will have been taking twice as much current as it was designed for - is there any sign of charring/burning - just guessing but it might be/have been some sort of thermal cut out? If you bypass it does it work?

 

[Engineer54]

I can't believe what your doing!! So what are you going to do now, ....buy a stock of these thermal cut-out gizmo's?? Either buy a suitable transformer, or purchase a model that is designed to work on our voltage band, ...namely 230 volt!!!

 

[Billebaars]

Can't really make out what it is doing from the pics? Mind no expert on recognising little thingmebobs! Is there anything on the other side of it? It will have been taking twice as much current as it was designed for - is there any sign of charring/burning - just guessing but it might be/have been some sort of thermal cut out? If you bypass it does it work?

No charring detected. However, it might be an internal fuse, although that wouldn't explain why it's attached to the heating plate. Might try to bypass it to see what happens.
I would prefer some advice on what it is before I do that though.

 

[pushrod]

You could try googling images of thermal cut out or checking if there are any part numbers on it. If that is a thermal cutout , bypassing it for any length of time could mean that it gets dangerously hot and start a fire. TBH this has probs been running with twice the current it was designed for so everything on it has been overheated and stressed by all means have a play with it but i would not put it back into normal use, even on the correct voltage for it, unless it was properly tested first.

I'll look out for dutch syrup waffles

 

[RWJ]

How to kill a Waffle Iron

Is this thread still going???

Should be retitled How to kill a Waffle Iron

 

[aptsys]

Based on what can be seen from the photos, the elements appear to be wired in parallel. You should be able to wire these up in series. Then you just need to find a new 'stat...

 

[wade88]

Sounds like it would have been cheaper to by one that works on 230v

Sounds like someone LOVES their waffles...

 

[Billebaars]

Based on what can be seen from the photos, the elements appear to be wired in parallel. You should be able to wire these up in series. Then you just need to find a new 'stat...

I hoped this was the case, but unfortunately they're in series. Would've made things a lot easier.

You could try googling images of thermal cut out or checking if there are any part numbers on it. If that is a thermal cutout , bypassing it for any length of time could mean that it gets dangerously hot and start a fire. TBH this has probs been running with twice the current it was designed for so everything on it has been overheated and stressed by all means have a play with it but i would not put it back into normal use, even on the correct voltage for it, unless it was properly tested first.

It might indeed be some thermal cutout or fuse. I'll see what I can find on google.

 

[Billebaars]

Is pearl sugar also known as sugar nibs - like little bits of sugar the size of match heads
cos i tried that and tried real yeast, as well as baking powder recipes, and a splash of rum, tried all sorts but couldn't get near those aldi ones!

Try leaving them wrapped up in plastic at room temperature for 5 days. They might be similar then. By Aldi ones I suppose you don't mean the pancake waffles?
Yes, pearl sugar is the same as nib sugar

 

[pushrod]

. By Aldi ones I suppose you don't mean the pancake waffles?

No these one are "authentic Belgian sugar waffles" about 2cm thick each - put me right off trying to make my own as they are so good lol

 

[wade88]

if you enjoy a waffle - get yourself down to "the waffle house" in Norwich town centre, was up there last weekend visiting my bro, insanely good. Humous, avacado and mozzarrella with a sweet chilli dressing served on a bed of wild rocket on a savoury large waffle......followed by a mixed chopped nut sweet waffle swimming in maple syrup. Im such a king. Mug off making your own, especially at this sort of hassle!

 

[aptsys]

I hoped this was the case, but unfortunately they're in series. Would've made things a lot easier.

Are you sure? The photos indicate that there is another load coming off in parallel from the first element.

Some more pictures would be useful. A 55V element sounds a bit odd.

 

[Billebaars]

I've carefully studied the make up of the waffle iron and have concluded that it's indeed in parallel (damn, should've figured that out the first time). The attached picture is a diagram of the waffle iron.
AC = power imput
R1 = heating element attached to top plate
R2 = heating element attached to bottom plate
1 = probably "Ready" light
2 = probably "On/Off" light
Adj. Bimetal = bimetal thermostat which can be adjusted with the dial
? = the mystery part. This is attached to the top plate, but not to R1 other than a wire. It's attached with what seems to be a ceramic holder.

The heating elements have the following engraved on them "729K 115V 500W" (729K might be the max temp?)

Anybody any idea what this mystery part is. It might be a thermal fuse, but it does not seem broken and doesn't look at all like any thermal fuses I've seen. Perhaps it's purpose is for the "Ready" light, but the main power is directly attached to it.

(I've reattached the pictures of the part)

 

[Engineer54]

Perhaps it's function was to stop those foolish enough to whack 230 volts across a 115volt appliance... lol!!!!

 

[Billebaars]

Perhaps it's function was to stop those foolish enough to whack 230 volts across a 115volt appliance... lol!!!!

Hehe, maybe so, however the machine worked for weeks!

 

[Engineer54]

Ain't working now though, ...is it?? haha!!!

 

[Marvo]

Okay, one leg of the power goes through a thermal non-resettable fuse AKA 'the mystery part' which then supplies one side of both elements that are wired in parallel.

Here's a link to a possible replacement from RS Components. It's a self resetting variety which looks best suited to your application, you'll just need to figure out a way of mounting it against the plate. You may also need some additional silicone sleeve to insulate the wires. Not sure of the temperature range you require, maybe around 150-200 Celsius at a guess.

Another option is pick something from the Honeywell redi-temp range.

The other adjustable component is a simmerstat (AKA energy regulator). It modulates the power to the elements on/off at different time ratios depending on the adjustable setting. It does not measure temperature of the plates, it's a 'blind' control. There will also be a Honeywell replacement available.

 

[rocker]

Hi, I like a lot of syrup on my waffles.

You say you want these irons because they make a special type of waffle, I'm assuming shape is the defining factor here? SO EITHER

....could you get a normal waffle iron and rape it of it's internal organs, shove them in the american iron and watch it go?

OR

My waffle irons are old school French jobbies, they are just some metal waffle shapes on some long old poles, you stick them on the stove to heat them up, then pour on the batter. Could you somehow weld some long poles to the form part of the waffle irons (disposing of the rest of the gubbins first) and use it as an old fashioned one?

 

[Billebaars]

So, in the end I've bypassed the thermal fuse by folding some copper wire between the gap. The iron is up and running, showing no differences than before the defect. This might not be the safest option and I'll probably be replacing it soon.

This brings me to my next question: anybody know where I can get a cheap waffle iron suitable for dutch syrup waffles (stroopwafels) which works on 230V. The dodgy one I have now is a Cuisinart Waffle Cone maker (see pic). The pattern of the irons are important for the waffles.

Thanks for all the tips.

 

[pushrod]

which then supplies one side of both elements that are wired in parallel. The fact that the 2 x 110 volt elements are in parallal is the reason they haven't blown, they are acting as a voltage divider so when supplied with 230v the volt drop across each element is approx half of that.

[.

Think you have got that wrong Marvo - if they are in parallel they will both have the full 230V across them. If they were in series they would be getting half that voltage each (assuming they are the same resistance).

Billebaars when i originally calculated the current i did not know there were 2 elements(had only read from my first post). If the figures in the photos refer to each element and if as you say they are in parallel then the resistance is effectively halved since R was 26Ω
1/Rt = 1/r1 + 1/r2.
So Rt =13Ω
This means that the total current it is pulling is I=V/R = 230/13 = 17.6A eek!!!

just as well it has only been on for a few minutes at a time and not surprising that i think you said it was heating up really quickly and drawing a lot of power. You were lucky it wasn't popping the fuses in the plug top. I bet the flex was getting hot as well. Put those elements in series and you will have a completely different iron - drawing only 4.4A

But more worryingly is what these excessive currents have done to the cables i reckon you need to bite the bullet with it or completely rebuild it and move to the states to access their supply voltage

edit just seen your post i wouldn't use it

 

[Billebaars]

This means that the total current it is pulling is I=V/R = 230/13 = 17.6A eek!!!

Would 17.6A not blow the 13A fuse in the plug? This doesn't occur

In addition, this appliance has been on a divider with other high power appliances and the fuse in the divider survived fine as well. Everything else in the iron seems fine and the smoke is actually from the remaining batter on the iron burning (by the smell of it)

Don't get me wrong, you're calculations don't lie, but the observations don't match. I can see if I can measure the power.

Thanks

 

[pushrod]

Fuses don't blow instantly when the current reaches that level - they have quite a bit of leeway built in. Something like 1.45 x rating for 30 mins and then it should have blown, rings a bell but would have to look it up to be certain.

Edit remember the rating of a fuse is the max current it can carry indefinitely, they only blow instantly when the current is many times the rating. On reflection think it is 1.45 times for 60 mins. Really not good - it will be stressing everything!

 

[Marvo]

Think you have got that wrong Marvo - if they are in parallel they will both have the full 230V across them. If they were in series they would be getting half that voltage each (assuming they are the same resistance).

Thanks Pushrod, you're spot on, at least one of us is awake.

I deleted that part from my post.

 

[Knobhead]

I can’t believe this thread!
People on this site bang on about the dangers of DIY electrical dabbling, and here it’s being actively encouraged.
At some point the thermostat will weld closed, the thermal fuse has got wire jammed in it!
Waffles won’t be the only things burnt!

 

[pushrod]

I can’t believe this thread!
People on this site bang on about the dangers of DIY electrical dabbling, and here it’s being actively encouraged.
At some point the thermostat will weld closed, the thermal fuse has got wire jammed in it!
Waffles won’t be the only things burnt!

Take your point but i think there is a lot of difference to a DIYer installing permanent circuits and a physics student having a play with an appliance like a waffle maker, which by its nature is never left alone and works for just 3 mins at a time. I think there has overall been a reasoned input with due regard to safety and certainly no one AFAIK condoned permanently shorting out the thermal cut out/fuse. Your post also being very useful in pointing out dangers.

I suspect that if there had been no input from members that the OP would have just carried on regardless and the end result could have been a lot worse

 

[Billebaars]

I would like to say that I very much appreciate the concern for the dangers of this project. This is definitely something I'm trying to take in consideration and I'm going down to an excellent hardware shop to see if I we can wire the elements serially (my own soldering won't do at these temperatures). In addition, I'll see if I can replace the serial fuse.
To add though, as pushrod said, I'll be in the presence of this machine at all times when it's on. Because of the high current, the iron heats in about 30 seconds at max setting before the bimetal thermostat kicks in. It remains hot and only about 10 second bursts of current at approx 10 min intervals from the thermostat is needed to keep it that way.

Despite the price, the iron seems fairly well constructed and all metal parts of it have been grounded (including the top cover). None of the parts or wires seem to have been affected (no burning/melting) by the high current except for the thermal fuse.
A fire extinguisher is present at all times in case it decides to catch fire.

Thanks for all the tips, folks. I'll keep this thread running for any updates.

 

[aptsys]

First of all, just connect the elements in series!

 

[Knobhead]

I’ve said my piece so I’ll leave it with you.

 

[PavelMeld]

Hi, everybody !
For me it was surprising that someone else have tried to mod this device from 110 to 220 =)
It was about one year ago when I bought such device at Amazon and found this funnny USA plug.
I'm not sure it's possible to attach images of what was inside to this message, so I'll do this in next one.

 

[PavelMeld]

Ok, inside was a pretty simple circuit but with really messy wiring.
Original Schematics (110V):

Corresponding wiring was:

First of all it's easy to see that we really can connect plates in series without any danger to change their operation mode:

Moreover, it's possible to reuse existing wires:


And this works very fine! Cooking timings are as specified in manual for standard 110V mode.
Each waffle-making session lasts at least 1 hour, and no problems were detected during 1 year of exploitation (about 20-25 hours of heating).

May be this will help someone else who will buy this model from US =)

 

[Marvo]

This thread must be ranked in google searches I assume. Many appliances like this have a different kilowatt rated element on the top and bottom, if you change element wiring from parallel to series you could get a different volt drop across each element which may result in uneven cooking of the waffles.