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Dave78
I didn't know if this should be in here (as after advice) or in the lighting section - apologises if it's in the wrong area.
I was looking at the wiring last night in my mates loft, as he's currently got low voltage downlights installed, but he's thinking of replacing them for 240v - largely as a couple of his transformers have stopped working and each downlight has it's own transformer. And as I happen to have some 240v downlighters (Class 2) in my loft doing nothing.
They were installed by the previous owners and you can just make out the filled in hole from where the old ceiling rose was in the middle of the room. Above it there's a junction box with the standard wires of Power In/Out, switch and what would have been the output to the light - now in 1.0mm sq T&E. Then daisy chained through Halolite boxes, the outputs of which go to a transformer then onto the 12v downlight. See attached pic
Must be said I'd not heard of Halolite boxes before, but they just seem to be another type of screwless loop in/out with a N&L supply output. I've sure they's a better way to describe this. But it's this from Screwfix (am sure other suppliers are available). According to what's on the box it's rated to 8A
He was wondering whether it's possible to disconnect the transformer and wire the 240v downlighters directly from the Halolite's N&L supply with 2 core heat resistant flex, thereby leaving all the other wiring alone. Already noted that the downlighters in this case would have to be class 2 as no earth wire (which mine are if he used them). He's wanting to use LED GU10, but I've suggested that someone might well replace the LED for halogen in the future.
Thought I'd ask on here, as normally I'd have just used a standard screw terminal junction box, although more recently have gone to using Wago. No experience or knowledge of these Halolite junction boxes.
Thanks all, and hope it all makes sense.
I was looking at the wiring last night in my mates loft, as he's currently got low voltage downlights installed, but he's thinking of replacing them for 240v - largely as a couple of his transformers have stopped working and each downlight has it's own transformer. And as I happen to have some 240v downlighters (Class 2) in my loft doing nothing.
They were installed by the previous owners and you can just make out the filled in hole from where the old ceiling rose was in the middle of the room. Above it there's a junction box with the standard wires of Power In/Out, switch and what would have been the output to the light - now in 1.0mm sq T&E. Then daisy chained through Halolite boxes, the outputs of which go to a transformer then onto the 12v downlight. See attached pic
Must be said I'd not heard of Halolite boxes before, but they just seem to be another type of screwless loop in/out with a N&L supply output. I've sure they's a better way to describe this. But it's this from Screwfix (am sure other suppliers are available). According to what's on the box it's rated to 8A
He was wondering whether it's possible to disconnect the transformer and wire the 240v downlighters directly from the Halolite's N&L supply with 2 core heat resistant flex, thereby leaving all the other wiring alone. Already noted that the downlighters in this case would have to be class 2 as no earth wire (which mine are if he used them). He's wanting to use LED GU10, but I've suggested that someone might well replace the LED for halogen in the future.
Thought I'd ask on here, as normally I'd have just used a standard screw terminal junction box, although more recently have gone to using Wago. No experience or knowledge of these Halolite junction boxes.
Thanks all, and hope it all makes sense.