Dodgy trade pictures for your amusement! - 1 Million Views!

[Darkwood]

Right ... Just been nudged to set this up by Paul.M and sounds a good idea following recent threads I've done in the Arms..

Rules....No Offensive material... edit if required before posting as this is the public arena.
Anything to do with the trade or in and around it ...H&S pic's welcome.



I've posted this a few times and this is at a mates house following a kitchen refirb several yrs ago. mg_smile:

 

[ipf]

On with running a supply to a car ramp via an oldish 3x3 trunking, today.
Originally there were some fluorescent fittings fixed with bush and locknut system, changed to LEDs in the last couple of years.
To remove lid, I had to cut some cable ties wrapped completely round the 3X3, used to secure the lid, I presumed. On snipping, the fitting dropped, lazy twerps used the ties to hold the fittings up.

Not even put a locknut on that original bush.

 

[Mark42]

I suppose the other option if using swa single phase is to buy it the with the brown, blue, green/yellow colours.

For some reason single-phase colours SWA costs more, so becomes significantly more expensive for long runs.

 

[ipf]

On with running a supply to a car ramp via an oldish 3x3 trunking, today.
Originally there were some fluorescent fittings fixed with bush and locknut system, changed to LEDs in the last couple of years.
To remove lid, I had to cut some cable ties wrapped completely round the 3X3, used to secure the lid, I presumed. On snipping, the fitting dropped, lazy twerps used the ties to hold the fittings up.

Not even put a locknut on that original bush.

View attachment 104005

View attachment 104006

Fitting taken apart and the cables have been extended with T+E....so obviously done on the cheap by domestic dummies.

 

[davesparks]

For some reason single-phase colours SWA costs more, so becomes significantly more expensive for long runs.

It will be more expensive because there is low demand for it,

 

[Raptor0014]

This place is going to take some work. In addition to the pics below.

No earth to gas or water
Undersized main earth (it’s a single 2.5mm copper strand)
Consumer unit is Bakelite & Wood under the stairs and cover is damaged
No RCD protection and no supplementary bonding of any kind.
Boiler is also wired wrong as it fires up if you turn the hot water on. But doesn’t when heating is turned up. It is also supplied from the socket circuit and the immersion circuit.
No CPC’s are sleeved (trivial given the other issues)
T&E feeding the garage is supported by a washing line and i have an inkling it’s been used to hang washing as there are marks that look suspiciously like peg marks!

Pipe jockey also needs to come in as when the boiler does fire up, only the rads upstairs get warm, downstairs stays cold.

Bet they’re gonna wish they never asked me to come in now. I’ve got 26 observations so far with 15 being C1 & C2’s

 

[Mike Johnson]

Just an observation, normally if the rads upstairs are heating and the downstairs are not, it's probably the pump is not working.

 

[Raptor0014]

Just an observation, normally if the rads upstairs are heating and the downstairs are not, it's probably the pump is not working.

I did wonder. But it’s a new pump well it’s certainly shiny in comparison to the dust covered stuff in there and it’s digital.

I’ll wait to hear what the pipe jockey says. I think the landlord is a going to be upset at the remedial bill just before Christmas.

 

[Mike Johnson]

New pump wired up or programmed by a plumber, need I say more.

 

[LewisM]

More quality kitchen fitter work

 

[DPG]

More quality kitchen fitter work

View attachment 104196View attachment 104197

That wants flagging to the kitchen company. Wonder how many times they've done ite, and they'll continue to do it.

 

[LewisM]

That wants flagging to the kitchen company. Wonder how many times they've done ite, and they'll continue to do it.

Was old probably about 20 years ago!

House was fully rewired in 1970s but has no earth on the lighting, its just twin 1mm copper, its odd as I thought anything 1960s onwards had earth in the lighting

I've seen loads of stranded cable with no earth but not 1mm solid copper

 

[pc1966]

Was old probably about 20 years ago!

House was fully rewired in 1970s but has no earth on the lighting, its just twin 1mm copper, its odd as I thought anything 1960s onwards had earth in the lighting

I've seen loads of stranded cable with no earth but not 1mm solid copper

Sadly not too uncommon to see a "full rewire" that leaves some difficult to replace cables re-used.

 

[LewisM]

Re-done the bonding connection in the same house

 

[Raptor0014]

These new boards are the future.

So advanced they have their own pilot light and electric heating to keep things nice and warm…..

 

[buzzlightyear]

Two in to one want go when you put a switch line and neutral together on a timed fan, a fault welding a switch and fan switch.

 

[Welchyboy1]

Recent quality Hot tub installation and CU supplying the socket

 

[mainline]

Recent quality Hot tub installation and CU supplying the socket

Could be Rcd socket ?

 

[nicebutdim]

Never been in a hot tub and nor will I, without first conducting a thorough inspection of its supply

 

[littlespark]

Guessing there’s a 10mA rcd on the hot tub cable…. But that won’t stop some clown cutting it off because “it keeps trippin’”

 

[Welchyboy1]

just a standard outside socket and 13a plug top no rcd at all

 

[Raptor0014]

Got a call out to a cooker tripping the RCD every time the oven is switched on. But the time taken would vary. Suspected a failing element.

So went and had a look, tested the element. It registered 25.9ohms so about right for the size of the oven.

Checked all the wiring and took the bulb out to check that as seen issues with those before.

Noticed how the consumer unit was oddly set up but will get to that shortly.

So next tested the RCD.

Trip was fine at 38.6ms.
Ramp test was 19mA which is a little sensitive but above the 15mA minimum.

So next I put my clamp meter on the connections in the back of the oven. It was leaking around 3-4mA until the temp is set. Once the temp is set the leakage then climbs to around 13-14ma and fluctuates between 5-14mA (before the RCD trips).

So looking at the board I can hazard a guess that because they have stuck all the high power circuits on one RCD and all the lights on the other. We have got a case of accumulative leakage tripping the RCD as when the other circuits are off and just the oven is on. The RCD stays on.

Whilst there I noticed the wiring for the outside light. But another electrician apparently said this is ok as it’s out of reach.

 

[pc1966]

So next I put my clamp meter on the connections in the back of the oven. It was leaking around 3-4mA until the temp is set. Once the temp is set the leakage then climbs to around 13-14ma and fluctuates between 5-14mA (before the RCD trips).

I would check for reversed polarity at the oven, in case it is the neutral that is being switched off so higher leakage once cycling.

Whilst there I noticed the wiring for the outside light. But another electrician apparently said this is ok as it’s out of reach.

Oh FFS!

That is a good advert for why T&E is not a suitable outside choice. Even if out of reach, which is a load of balls, then once it leaks you risk the lights on RCD going off mid winter.

 

[Pretty Mouth]

Looking closely at that picture, I'd say that twin and earth was already in that condition when it was installed on that wall.

 

[Raptor0014]

Looking closely at that picture, I'd say that twin and earth was already in that condition when it was installed on that wall.

Apparently it’s been up there a few years. I don’t think it was like that when it was installed. I’m going back in a couple of days to sort it so will take a closer look when I remove it.

 

[pc1966]

Looking closely at that picture, I'd say that twin and earth was already in that condition when it was installed on that wall.

Well the clips look newer than the cable, but I doubt anyone would run in cable in that condition!

However, some things i have seen...

 

[loz2754]

Quite obviously squirrel damage innit

 

[Pretty Mouth]

Apparently it’s been up there a few years. I don’t think it was like that when it was installed. I’m going back in a couple of days to sort it so will take a closer look when I remove it.

It's been moved since it decayed, I'd bet money. Has the wall been repointed recently? Might explain things.

 

[Raptor0014]

It's been moved since it decayed, I'd bet money. Has the wall been repointed recently? Might explain things.

Pass, I'll ask when I go back. I did notice the clips looked quite new. Maybe the electrician who said it was ok as it's out of reach put some new clips in for them. You know just to keep it out of reach and compliant.....

 

[mainline]

Got a call out to a cooker tripping the RCD every time the oven is switched on. But the time taken would vary. Suspected a failing element.

So went and had a look, tested the element. It registered 25.9ohms so about right for the size of the oven.

Checked all the wiring and took the bulb out to check that as seen issues with those before.

Noticed how the consumer unit was oddly set up but will get to that shortly.

So next tested the RCD.

Trip was fine at 38.6ms.
Ramp test was 19mA which is a little sensitive but above the 15mA minimum.

So next I put my clamp meter on the connections in the back of the oven. It was leaking around 3-4mA until the temp is set. Once the temp is set the leakage then climbs to around 13-14ma and fluctuates between 5-14mA (before the RCD trips).

So looking at the board I can hazard a guess that because they have stuck all the high power circuits on one RCD and all the lights on the other. We have got a case of accumulative leakage tripping the RCD as when the other circuits are off and just the oven is on. The RCD stays on.

View attachment 104526

View attachment 104525

Whilst there I noticed the wiring for the outside light. But another electrician apparently said this is ok as it’s out of reach.

Peeves me when they go to the expense of fitting a spd, but then skimp on a split load board.

 

[mainline]

I would also be looking at that oven again as that leakage is way too high, Should be around 1 mA or 1 mA/kW of rated power

RCD with a rated operating current of 30 mA, the maximum leakage current is 9 mA