Discuss Dodgy trade pictures for your amusement! - 1 Million Views! in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

They use a lot of cable in smooth flexi conduit all over Europe… and the white stuff there is possibly the closest thing we have that is similar.

Therefore, I deduce Doctor Watson, that this installation was put in by none other than…… (dramatic pause) …. A foreigner!


Ok.. that’s not fair, there’s plenty of non Uk sparks that are good and do have an understanding of our bs7671…. This one apparently doesn’t.



What’s that old song? “Rip it up and start again….”
 
Dramatic difference between the black conduit you can buy in TLC (20mm Flexible Conduit Pack c/w 10 Glands - Black | Flexicon (FPP-CP20B) - https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/AF20BSB.html) you get glands, but in Europe you get a draw wire already installed, but no glands, back box's are unsuitable. (https://www.leroymerlin.fr/produits...a/gaine-icta-diam-20-mm-l-100-m-62900572.html)

That sort of flexible conduit is one step up from being of no use whatsoever. Awful stuff, although I invariably install quite a bit of it in stud walls to provide a route from A to B - generally short runs to an exit blade or for the likes of low voltage door controls.
 
That sort of flexible conduit is one step up from being of no use whatsoever. Awful stuff, although I invariably install quite a bit of it in stud walls to provide a route from A to B - generally short runs to an exit blade or for the likes of low voltage door controls.
Ok for wiring and keeping cables together under worktops/benches in rooms like kitchens or workrooms, where access is awkward. Or saddled inside cupboards, even.
 
Wrongly routed Oil Quantity Transmitter cable had been chafing before then protected but still routed wrong and had chafed again and shorted out to the oil tank

1000027101.jpg
1000027102.jpg
 
^^^^^ so not only has a neat installation Benn made rough, but was that RCD needed for fault protection? Looks like a TT system to me!
Sy
Oops just looked again and PME I take it from the second Henley/ service blocks.
 
^^^^^ so not only has a neat installation Benn made rough, but was that RCD needed for fault protection? Looks like a TT system to me!
Sy
Oops just looked again and PME I take it from the second Henley/ service blocks.
You were right the first time it's TT, the meter man removed the Rcd being used for fault protection.
 
Is it common for meter fitters to remove components which fall outside the scope of their work?
Had one yesterday where I had fitted new cu and isolator a few months ago.
Meter man came to put in a smart meter and replaced the new Wylex rec2 telling the customer that the regs have changed so needs replacing with an eon labeled one.
Needless to say he took the wylex one with him for I assume safe disposal on eBay 🙄
 
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Had one yesterday where I had fitted new cu and isolator a few months ago.
Meter man came to put in a smart meter and replaced the new Wylex rec2 telling the customer that the regs have changed so needs replacing with an eon labeled one.
Needless to say he took the wylex one with him for I assume safe disposal on eBay 🙄

At least he left a new one, regardless of whether it was through idiocy or self gain.
 
that's got "builder" written all over it.

partly because of the ---- show of an installation, and partly because of the fact that the instructions haven't been followed, read or even moved from the box.
 
as above , that has 'builders wiring' written all over it

i don't imagin the rcd is fixed to anything, just the cable strain holding it in situ
 
Got a call to look at lights flickering/not working sometimes. Thought I'd start at the consumer unit, took the lid off and was greeted with this! Note only one conductor is clamped in the terminal of the left hand ring, and the main neutral from the second RCD to the right hand neutral bar was also undone. There were other problems with the lights including loose connections at wago connectors where 2 or 3 conductors hand be connected to a single port.
dark hager.jpg
hager.jpg
 
I got called to a fairly straightforward case - "when I turn on the outside light it trips the RCD".
The before L+N-> E IR test was 0.8 Mohms. I showed the customer, explained bare minimum was effectively 2 (or 1 if you want to argue) and now we'd disconnect the light and see what it jumped to. "It shouldn't be the light, I bought it new and fitted it myself". Ok, let's see.

Ah, factory fitted flex removed, T&E all the way to the light.... the problem wasn't exactly hard to identify:
1705430667404.png


Snip. >299 Mohms. New joint box. New light.
 
99% of the time that is like a red rag to a bull, come on and show me the disaster of an installation and I can redo it and go home.
sometimes though it is incredible how much effort a diyer will go to in order for it to be perfect, sometimes with one simple to rectify mistake. Those are the jobs where it is a joy to repair and educate at the same time.
 
Looking again at Tim's image, I don't think a factory fitted flex had been removed. It looks very like connections on LAP floodlights a few years back. They didn't inspire confidence when connection NYY-J or HO7, but in fairness I never did have any issues with water ingress.

I was going to facetiously suggest they rarely lasted long enough to see a shower of rain, but that would be unfair when backed by a 3 year warranty.
 
Priceless.
To be fair he wanted to know why, and we chatted UV rays and grommet shapes!
Looking again at Tim's image, I don't think a factory fitted flex had been removed. It looks very like connections on LAP floodlights a few years back.
I think you are right. It would have been a sod to terminate, so some respect is due that it worked at all, for a while!
I was going to facetiously suggest they rarely lasted long enough to see a shower of rain,
My current habit is Collingwood units. They seem to be lasting well. Also easy to fit (as are their bathroom bulkheads)
 
I have been asked to wire an Air Source Heat Pump for a Koi pond - no biggie from the electrical point of view.

However, I thought I would check up on the required settings, and plumbing - just in case there is anything special for this application, so came across this video:



I just love the strain relief at 3:20, the bolting straight through the vibration feet at 9:20 (so they're bypassed transmitting the vibration straight through).

Can't see any danger with the consumer unit or wiring to the meter around 10:45 though! 😉

And he and his commenters think he's done a brilliant job.
 
A flex outlet plate and shallow 16mm wall box, very poor. Are you sure there isn't a fused spur upstream of that Buzz ?
No idea, called out by a company that do
emergency calls, isolation was in order
From main boiler, customer getting wet paints back to sort the boiler out, informed customer to tell wet pants to investigate, and if no up stream fuse spur needs one putting in.
 
I just love the strain relief at 3:20, the bolting straight through the vibration feet at 9:20 (so they're bypassed transmitting the vibration straight through).
Strain relief is low on the priority list when you have aesthetics to consider, like the colour of the cable.
Can't see any danger with the consumer unit or wiring to the meter around 10:45 though! 😉
In fairness, he did say he used rubber washers under the metal ones. :)

And he and his commenters think he's done a brilliant job.
He's so proud of his work, he feels the need to show off the innards of it.

Maybe he could get a perspex cover for it.
 

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