Downlight Cover / Insulation Advice

[spoodge]

Hi I'm currently boarding out a small section of loft space for storage, there are two layers of insulation covered by standard chipboard loft boarding.

Underneath the insulation there are 3 low voltage down-lights for the bathroom, basically what I need to know is how much, space if any, I need to leave around them and if I need to use the fire proof covers I've seen advertised.
I've covered the insulation with board , so concerned about heat buildup, not sure what these low voltage lights give off.

Here's some 3D renders I made of the project, I always do this to scale so I know exactly how much material I need and can experiment with layouts.

larger Images are available here....Loft - Album on Upload the image directly to the thread for some reason this forum doesn't re-size posted images.

The white tube is an extraction pipe from the bathroom.

Grateful for any advice..

tia

http://i.Upload the image directly to the thread.com/BugtJ2vl.jpg

http://i.Upload the image directly to the thread.com/DAPU5Fhl.jpg


http://i.Upload the image directly to the thread.com/v3oN4P0l.jpg

http://i.Upload the image directly to the thread.com/wdaomnpl.jpg

 

[Richard Burns]

It would normally come down to the manufacturers instructions but no doubt these are no longer available.
Low voltage (12V) halogen down lights get very hot and need air circulation above and around them to dissipate the heat.
generally if you leave 100 mm around and 50 mm above and there are no flammable materials near them then they should be OK.
Ensure the insulation does not creep back into the space.
The metal down light joist covers can be useful but the price mounts up quickly.

 

[telectrix]

what he said. ^^^^^^. also i'd advise swapping halogens for LED if halogens are currently fitted.

 

[spoodge]

Great , I'll just leave sufficient gap, there's less of a heat loss issue with the boards on top.

Thanks for the advice.

I think they are LEDS, they don't get that warm.

 

[HandySparks]

I generally fit these fibre loft caps, both for halogen and LED fittings:

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/TLALC274.html

A bit pricy, but they just sit on the ceiling, so easy to install. You can then fit the loft insulation back around and over them without the risk of overheating.

Still worth it, even for LED, as it shortens their life if they get too warm.

 

[spoodge]

I generally fit these fibre loft caps, both for halogen and LED fittings:

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/TLALC274.html

A bit pricy, but they just sit on the ceiling, so easy to install. You can then fit the loft insulation back around and over them without the risk of overheating.

Still worth it, even for LED, as it shortens their life if they get too warm.

Wow, a tenner for a fireproof plantpot?.., surely there's a cheaper workaround / substitute ? ...still, this is for my mums loft...for my peace of mind I think i need to fit something.

 

[Farmelectrics]

LEDs for me

 

[spoodge]

These seem to be good enough for the job in hand...I'll be much more at ease knowing these are in there maintaining the gap...

Insulation Support Box | Scolmore | Insulation Support Boxes for downlights - Superlec Direct

conform to BS EN 60598 and cost a third of the plant pots

Thanks again for the advice, better safe than sorry.

 

[telectrix]

These seem to be good enough for the job in hand...I'll be much more at ease knowing these are in there maintaining the gap...

Insulation Support Box | Scolmore | Insulation Support Boxes for downlights - Superlec Direct

conform to BS EN 60598 and cost a third of the plant pots

Thanks again for the advice, better safe than sorry.

they look OK to me.

 

[LankyWill]

Great , I'll just leave sufficient gap, there's less of a heat loss issue with the boards on top.

Thanks for the advice.

I think they are LEDS, they don't get that warm.

pics look great, what design software is that?

 

[spoodge]

they look OK to me.

Cool. I'll order them in the morning.

pics look great, what design software is that?

Thanks Lanky, they were made in 3ds Max and rendered using Vray, only a few hours work as opposed to the few days they normaly take, no need for photo-real in this situation.
May seem a little overkill, but I find it a massive help when doing DIY, most of my work is for clients designing products and needing photo-real previews of it in the various stages of development.

For this job I can see what it will look like in advance and know down to the cm how much material I will need...saves wastage