Discuss Fan Isolator switch alternative in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

Darpar

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Hi. Random question, but in our utility room we have an extraction fan like what is normally found in a bathroom. Currently doesn't come on with the light or anything like the bathroom one. It has its own independent isolator switch which leaves the fan on or off continuously. Does this have to be an 'isolator' switch, or could it be changed to a normal light switch type instead? Or a switch with a light to show it is turned on? Thanks
 
Triple pole isolator is used for maintenance because it disconnects all lines to the fan. Could get a local spark in to see whether he could modify the light switch to bring the fan on.
 
Not really bothered about it coming on with the light in all honesty. Quite like it being a switch on its own. Just looks bit unsightly having a big isolator switch next to a light switch. Wondered really if it could just have a normal switch rather than the isolator type
 
So it is possible. My electrical knowledge is basic. I'm assuming the isolator works as a switch. So can't see why a light switch wouldn't work instead of the isolator switch?
 
So can't see why a light switch wouldn't work instead of the isolator switch?

Because to isolate you need to disconnect both the line and the neutral connections. Standard light switches only disconnect the line.

You can get double pole switches to do what you want.
 
If there is a 3 core switch cable for the fan you can use a double pole switch with a neon for control,isolation and little light all in one swoop
If there is no 3 core and you only have feed in and switch wire out to fan,you could get your feed off the light switch by changing to a 2 gang grid and use the 2 core as one core for fan switched live + the other core for a neutral for the neon
 
So you want something that is visually the same as your light switch post a picture so we may be able to advise a match of D.P switch and light switch.
 
Photos as requested

15045532699611883674895.jpg


15045533126611832256332.jpg


1504553368464464749018.jpg
 
Forgot to mention, ideally looking to match with an mk logic style switch
Why MK as you have Volex switches. I don't think you will have enough depth for grid switch configuration. Take it you are looking for switch D.P. that looks like the switch on the left.
 
So it is possible. My electrical knowledge is basic. I'm assuming the isolator works as a switch. So can't see why a light switch wouldn't work instead of the isolator switch?

I can't tell you what fan they've got or details of the switch as I've never really paid it much attention. As others say, it all depends...
 
Sorry. Wanting mk as all others in the house are so will be changing the light switch to match this. Thanks for all your help so far. And thanks for the neon switch option. Is there an option without he neon light? And how will the wiring differ from what I have currently into the new switch?
 
Yes that's correct. Going to be changing the size glenfiddich light switch to the left to mk logic and wanted the isolator switch to ideally match if possible or as close as can be. Not a big isolator type
Not a clue what happened with autocorrect there! Will be changing the light switch on the left. Hope that makes sense
 
MK 10A D.P. K4876WHI may have to be ordered as may not be stocked at wholesalers you will need to get engraved FAN.

Light switch if 1 way MK K4870WHI or 2 way K4871WHI
 
It's quite simple. Just google
Mk DP switch

Oh, here you are
Click this one instead

Wiring will be the same.
That's great. Thanks for your help. Been looking at the technical info for this type. I don't know which wire is load and which is supply. Any idea how I will. Find out?
It's quite simple. Just google
Mk DP switch

Oh, here you are
Click this one instead

Wiring will be the same.
That's great. Thanks for your help. Been looking at the technical info for this type. I don't know which wire is load and which is supply though
 
That's great. Thanks for your help. Been looking at the technical info for this type. I don't know which wire is load and which is supply. Any idea how I will. Find out?

That's great. Thanks for your help. Been looking at the technical info for this type. I don't know which wire is load and which is supply though
If you turn the fan off the live and neutral at the top should be live supply but this will need to be tested.
 
Hi all, just out of curiosity... If I get a switch with a fuse, the only one I can find is a 13a like this

http://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/mk-13a-dp-switched-fused-connection-unit-with-flex-outlet-white/13479

Would this be OK for what I'm doing or will I need a 20a dp switch without fuse?

Thanks
 
I have already given you a link with a DP MK switch without a fuse.
It's quite simple. Just google
Mk DP switch

Oh, here you are
Click this one instead

Wiring will be the same.

Didn't you like my suggestion?
Your existing switch doesn't have a fuse, why do you think you now need one?

Use a fused DP FCU if you like.
You can change the fuse in there for whatever value is appropriate, but it's not necessary for a fan on a lighting circuit.
 
Can I point out to you that the thickness and look of a switched fused spur or D.P. switch is different to the light plate switch .
 
I have already given you a link with a DP MK switch without a fuse.


Didn't you like my suggestion?
Your existing switch doesn't have a fuse, why do you think you now need one?

Use a fused DP FCU if you like.
You can change the fuse in there for whatever value is appropriate, but it's not necessary for a fan on a lighting circuit.
I did like your suggestion, and purchased the link you sent. However the wife doesn't like the fact that the switch is towards the top of the plate and the light switch is in the centre of the plate. Don't ask!! So the idea was if we got a fuse switch then it isn't as bad the switch being at the top!
 
Right, here's your answer - replace both switches with the 20A suggested previously. Perfect match. You're welcome
 
See my post No.23 I also note that the k.o. back boxes are only 16mm therefore you may struggle with depth using D.P./switched fused spur.
 
See my post No.23 I also note that the k.o. back boxes are only 16mm therefore you may struggle with depth using D.P./switched fused spur.

Apologies if you've already suggested 2 x 20A units. There's that many bloody posts about a bloody light switch being slightly different I've lost the will to read them all :)
 
Apologies if you've already suggested 2 x 20A units. There's that many bloody posts about a bloody light switch being slightly different I've lost the will to read them all :)
Not referring to your post DPG as sometimes two minds think alike I was replying to the O.P.
 
Seriously though.

Don't use MK. Use GET Ultimate, they have a similar look to MK.
This is the 20A DP switch. Use one for the fan and another for the light.


Click on the picture for details
 

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