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Discuss Fuel Gauge needle moving with revs issue in the Auto Electrician Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

Phew, thats better. Let me look for a proper rectifier and suitable regulator to give a consistent DC voltage, you may have to play around with the resister to get a full scale reading when talk is full, or you may want to get an empty indication when the tank is very low, its often hard to get both without alot of playing around.
 
There is no rectifier, and no flasher relay either (no turn signals). I posted the diagram to show that the current wasn't transformed on its way to the gauge. The rectifier was fitted to some models for the horn for some markets, but not on mine.

The only alterations to the wiring were to add a brake switch to the handlebar in line with the foot pedal brake switch; also, the brake pedal is fed through the main circuit instead of having its own wiring, and the rear light has its own wire coming from the regulator. Nothing that interferes with the gauge circuit as far as I can tell.

A battery could always be fitted, but the point of this bike being all AC is to keep it simple and easy to repair and maintain. I'd rather avoid that route.

Try shorting the diode out and see how it reacts.

Connected correctly, the coils will balance, leaving only the variation in the sender resistance to unbalance it and move the needle.
 
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This particular gauge didn't have a diode at first. When connected to AC, no reaction at all. When connected to a battery, it would move with the float.
Did it move the gauge correctly. ?
Is the AC fuel gauge not available ?

You could use a bridge rectifier and variable voltage regulator circuit, but better to get the one suggested.
 
Did it move the gauge correctly. ?
Is the AC fuel gauge not available ?

You could use a bridge rectifier and variable voltage regulator circuit, but better to get the one suggested.
It seemed to more or less, but this was off the bike, with no revs to affect it.

The AC fuel gauge acts exactly the same on this bike. It also has a diode and a resistor, which is why I fitted a diode to this one (which as a DC unit originally, didn't have one) to see if it would work.

The regulator suggested is for battery models apparently, and has 4 pins, while my circuit is just ground, hot wire from the stator, and wire out.
 
Isn't that for a battery model? There are 4 pins, and I only have 3 wires for the regulator.
The diagram you posted for the non battery model has 4 pins, there are only 2 wires to the regulator and what looks like 2 wires to the outputs of which one is the horn. For what it costs, its got to be worth getting it , connecting the 2 wires to the regulator as per diagram and then measuring the DC output using your meter as per diagram. If you get around 10VDC solid through the rev range , then jobs a good un.. you just then need to adjust the resistor to get the correct readings on the gauge- OR take a road trip to Derbyshire England and i do it myself.... :)
 

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