Help! - Shower Pull Switch, wires too short!

[Bootneck73h]

Hi,

The shower pull chord switch has snapped at my mom’s home and having unscrewed the switch I discovered a horror show(see pic). So I’ve had cut the wires back to clean them up but having done so it’s left me with nothing reasonable to wire up the new switch.
There’s nothing left on the cable to pull through and access to the loft in this very old dwelling is going to be an epic so re-routing isn’t really on the table.
Could I use some SpliceLine in-line wire connectors to extend the wires and if so would the 32 amp ones cut it?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance.

 

[littlespark]

I hate pull cords just for this reason. Give me a wall mounted isolator anytime.

Take the switch off, take the pattress box down and cut out the hole out a bit... you might find the cable is just stuck a little and might pull spare down.
Or, cut out for a dry lining box, a good depth one at 47mm and fit the switch flush to the ceiling. Gain maybe 2 inches on the cables.

 

[GBDamo]

Or, cut out for a dry lining box, a good depth one at 47mm and fit the switch flush to the ceiling. Gain maybe 2 inches on the cables.

That's such a great solution, will remember that one.

 

[littlespark]

That's such a great solution, will remember that one.

Problem is, there could be a joist right above.
A little polyfilla might be required.

 

[mainline]

Also use a decent quality switch.

https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/crabtree-capital-50a-1-way-pull-cord-switch-white-with-neon/90597

 

[GBDamo]

Problem is, there could be a joist right above.
A little polyfilla might be required.

Oh, guaranteed knowing my luck.

 

[Vortigern]

Use a 60A JB in loft, extend cable to either the pull switch or run down wall (in trunking ofc) to wall mounted switch?

 

[mainline]

I hate pull cords just for this reason. Give me a wall mounted isolator anytime.

Take the switch off, take the pattress box down and cut out the hole out a bit... you might find the cable is just stuck a little and might pull spare down.
Or, cut out for a dry lining box, a good depth one at 47mm and fit the switch flush to the ceiling. Gain maybe 2 inches on the cables.

There can be problems with getting a strong fix using a dry liner into either a plasterboard or lathe ceiling, end up reinforcing with cutting out some ply.

 

[nicebutdim]

There can be problems with getting a strong fix using a dry liner into either a plasterboard or lathe ceiling, end up reinforcing with cutting out some ply.

Main concern being the fact that it's going to support a pull switch with firm action.

 

[brianmoooore]

When this repair has been completed, preferably using a switch without a neon indicator, turn the switch on, and never turn it off again, unless someone is making a repair on the shower that requires its cover to be removed. It's an isolator for maintenance purposes.

 

[timhoward]

A further tip - when selecting a replacement switch, ensure it's orientated so that screwdriver access for terminals is from both sides, and NOT from the wall and front.
I wouldn't even try to fit it as pictured as you can't fit a screwdriver between the wall and terminals.

 

[R-fur]

And for future reference you can normally replace the cord without unscrewing the switch.

 

[7029 dave]

The idea in theory regarding dry line box is good, but will it be strong enough might pull the lot down or push the box through the ceiling when pushing the face plate up to the box.

 

[ferg]

It's very common to have dry lining boxes for pullcord shower isolators in my neck of the woods and the plasterboard very rarely fails around the box when properly fitted.
So rare I can't remember when I last saw one.

 

[nicebutdim]

It's very common to have dry lining boxes for pullcord shower isolators in my neck of the woods and the plasterboard very rarely fails around the box when properly fitted.
So rare I can't remember when I last saw one.

I still don't like it

 

[mainline]

It's very common to have dry lining boxes for pullcord shower isolators in my neck of the woods and the plasterboard very rarely fails around the box when properly fitted.
So rare I can't remember when I last saw one.

The fact that it happens is enough to put it in the last resort bracket for me.

Dry liner boxes were not designed for that and would be dependent on the strength of the plaster, how good the plaster is fixed to the ceiling and where between the joists that the liner would be.

Also, there are unknowns that can happen at a later date, like a water leak.

I would rather use a noggin, drill a hole for cable and mount the switch properly.

If a flush switch is wanted, then use a metal back box fixed to the noggin.

 

[littlespark]

Metal boxes like to bite my hands. And those extra two fixing lugs are just a nuisance.

Nothing to stop you adding a noggin above a dry liner…. Just for extra hold

 

[mainline]

Metal boxes like to bite my hands. And those extra two fixing lugs are just a nuisance.

Nothing to stop you adding a noggin above a dry liner…. Just for extra

A coupe of screws though a plastic dry liner is never going to be as strong as a metal backbox.

fitting something that wasn’t intended for that use is always going to be a bit of a bodge.

Best way is to avoid pull cords I’ve seen lots with multi cords for fan, towel rail ,wall heater and light it looked like something out of the Adam’s family.

 

[Mike Johnson]

Would mounting an RCD/RCBO protected switch on the wall comply with UK regs.

How about a Kinetic switch solution, Rx in the loft stuffed through the existing hole and switch double sided taped to the wall?

 

[DPG]

Would mounting an RCD/RCBO protected switch on the wall comply with UK regs.

How about a Kinetic switch solution, Rx in the loft stuffed through the existing hole and switch double sided taped to the wall?

Don't think a kinetic switch will meet requirements for a shower isolator!