Honeywell Thermostat Upgrade

[martininnes]

I - I am new here and tried a previous post by adding some attachments = that dont seem to have worked.
My issue - no doubt.
But I will try this once more if you could help please.

I am hoping to replace an old thermostat with a new digital version and need help with the wiring please.


If this works - the post should show 2 diagrams.
CURRENT THERMOSTAT - Shows wiring - the 3 connections and a small picture of the thermostat itself.
All 3 terminals correspond: 1 Brown 2 Blue 3 Black/Grey

The New Thermostat wiring diagram options.

I know the new thermostat does loads. But I just want to use it as a room thermostat.
So - the 3 coloured wires on the original thermostat should be connected to what terminals on the new thermostat - PLEASE PLEASE

 

[LankyWill]

Not rocket science, but if you didnt want all the xtras you should have bought a programable room stat

 

[davesparks]

The new unit is a programmer and the old one is a thermostat, you can't just swap one for the other without altering the wiring as there is no live supply to the existing room stat and the new unit requires one.
You will either have to remove the existing programmer and replace it with the new unit and then remove and disconnect the existing thermostat wiring. Or you could fit the new unit in place of the existing room stat and then alter the wiring to suit, which will involve disconnecting the heating from the existing programmer otherwise you will have multiple time controls attempting to control your heating.

The bat option here really would be to not try to fit a programmer in place of a roomstat and instead replace the rooms stat with another room stat.

All this does beg the question of what is wrong with the existing roomstat?

 

[Octopus]

I - I am new here and tried a previous post by adding some attachments = that dont seem to have worked.
My issue - no doubt.
But I will try this once more if you could help please.

I am hoping to replace an old thermostat with a new digital version and need help with the wiring please.


If this works - the post should show 2 diagrams.
CURRENT THERMOSTAT - Shows wiring - the 3 connections and a small picture of the thermostat itself.
All 3 terminals correspond: 1 Brown 2 Blue 3 Black/Grey

The New Thermostat wiring diagram options.

I know the new thermostat does loads. But I just want to use it as a room thermostat.
So - the 3 coloured wires on the original thermostat should be connected to what terminals on the new thermostat - PLEASE PLEASE




View attachment 31613View attachment 31614

So why, why, why start another thread?

You could have added this information to the other thread you started!

 

[Darkwood]

So why, why, why start another thread?

You could have added this information to the other thread you started!

The OP did add to his other thread but I was dealing with another matter and his post was waiting approval, I have closed that thread with a link to here now, this was not the OP's fault just us boys catching up with posts needing approval

I approved this thread not realising we had an existing one so my little boo boo :wub: , Thanks though Murdoch for pointing it out

 

[martininnes]

OK here goes -
I simply want to have the thermostat in the lounge.
Not in the Hallway that is impacted by draughts and door openings.

I thought the easiest way - would be to replace the Hallway Thermostat - with a wireless version (which the new Sundial is) and control it from the lounge.

To save extending the hallway thermostat wiring and having to re plaster.

Looks like its not a good idea.

To move the stat - wiring - replaster - redecorate is Circa £400.
Wireless stat £150

Seemed like a good idea

Martin

 

[martininnes]

Blimey -
I didn't realise that asking for help - was an opportunity for others to mark homework.
Sorry I caused so much trouble.

I am gone

 

[GMES]

Right I just approved the op's last 2 posts so he shouldn't need approving any more, let's get back to thread.

 

[davesparks]

OK here goes -
I simply want to have the thermostat in the lounge.
Not in the Hallway that is impacted by draughts and door openings.

I thought the easiest way - would be to replace the Hallway Thermostat - with a wireless version (which the new Sundial is) and control it from the lounge.

To save extending the hallway thermostat wiring and having to re plaster.

Looks like its not a good idea.

To move the stat - wiring - replaster - redecorate is Circa £400.
Wireless stat £150

Seemed like a good idea

Martin

Yes a wireless thermostat will allow you to do this easily, but the product you have selected is not just a thermostat, it is a programmer with a built in wireless stat receiver. Fitting this will require a bit of alteration of the existing control wiring.

£150 is a lot of money to pay for a simple wireless thermostat, I would normally have supplied and fitted a Drayton digistat RF1 for less than that if your system is suitably set up. you would not only save money, but also save yourself from the potential danger which electricity poses to anyone working with it.

Whatever you do a wireless stat will not just fit directly to your existing thermostat cable as there will not be a permanent live there to power it. This is why a wireless stat receiver would normally be fitted adjacent to the main connection box/wiring centre where the necessary connections are usually available (unless you have a Y plan system where there may only be a permanent live at the programmer and the boiler.

 

[Octopus]

OK here goes -
I simply want to have the thermostat in the lounge.
Not in the Hallway that is impacted by draughts and door openings.

I thought the easiest way - would be to replace the Hallway Thermostat - with a wireless version (which the new Sundial is) and control it from the lounge.

To save extending the hallway thermostat wiring and having to re plaster.

Looks like its not a good idea.

To move the stat - wiring - replaster - redecorate is Circa £400.
Wireless stat £150

Seemed like a good idea

Martin

Not sure putting the stat in the lounge it's a good idea. The hall is best, failing that the dining room

 

[martininnes]

Thanks -
Found exactly what is required.

http://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/honeywell-cmt921-wireless-room-thermostat/87377

Always argument about placing in lounge - Hall - Dining etc

I will use the remote stat to set lounge temp (her indoors of course) and use TRV for all other areas.

Simples -
Thanks for everyone's help
Martin

 

[davesparks]

Not sure putting the stat in the lounge it's a good idea. The hall is best, failing that the dining room

If the system is designed correctly then it should be in the room which has the radiator with no TRV fitted to it, otherwise the control system just won't work properly

 

[davesparks]

Thanks -
Found exactly what is required.

http://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/honeywell-cmt921-wireless-room-thermostat/87377

Always argument about placing in lounge - Hall - Dining etc

I will use the remote stat to set lounge temp (her indoors of course) and use TRV for all other areas.

Simples -
Thanks for everyone's help
Martin

I would advise against that one, I've removed a fair few of them for people who get thoroughly irritated with them not being simple to operate, one which has a simple dial to set the temperature is always far more popular.

Plus you still need to find a permanent live to power it whatever stat you go for!

 

[martininnes]

Why -
Every rad has a TRV.
That aside -
Why would I want a cold Hallway to to determine the whole Bungalow temp!
Just asking,,,,,,,,,,,,,

 

[Leesparkykent]

As you already have a programmer to set the time I would either use a Honeywell DT92E or Honeywell y6630d. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Honeywell-D...id=1456350718&sr=8-1&keywords=honeywell+dt92e or http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honeywell-Y6630D-RF-Wireless-Room-Thermostat-/281941944578?nav=SEARCH

 

[martininnes]

That is not my understanding - that may well be wrong.
It has batteries exactly the same as the CM900
And it simply fits in place using the back plate of the cm900.

So far a dial stats go - my experience is the lag - hit 24 - then hope to remain at that - then wait until it hits 19 before it kicks in

 

[sean_ork]

I would advise against that one, I've removed a fair few of them for people who get thoroughly irritated with them not being simple to operate, one which has a simple dial to set the temperature is always far more popular.
!

Indeed, pressing the up arrow button to increase the temperature and the down to lower the set temperature such an irritation.

 

[Leesparkykent]

Why -
Every rad has a TRV.
That aside -
Why would I want a cold Hallway to to determine the whole Bungalow temp!
Just asking,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Because the thermostatic rad valve and room thermostat will compete with each other.

 

[Octopus]

Why -
Every rad has a TRV.
That aside -
Why would I want a cold Hallway to to determine the whole Bungalow temp!
Just asking,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Hum.... You don't heat the hall to the normal room temperature. It's usually a couple of degrees lower

 

[martininnes]

Leesparkykent

BIG BIG THANKS
looks like the answer.
You are a star.

Martin

 

[Leesparkykent]

Indeed, pressing the up arrow button to increase the temperature and the down to lower the set temperature such an irritation.

I find a lot of people cant get their head around the programming of these as they don't have on and off periods just different temperature set points.

 

[davesparks]

That is not my understanding - that may well be wrong.
It has batteries exactly the same as the CM900
And it simply fits in place using the back plate of the cm900.

So far a dial stats go - my experience is the lag - hit 24 - then hope to remain at that - then wait until it hits 19 before it kicks in

The transmitter unit has batteries yes, but the receiver requires a permanent live supply.

Would you like me to type this a few more times?

You don't have to take my word for it, I only work on 3/4 domestic boiler control circuits each week, most of them having wireless stats fitted these days. It's not like I know what I'm doing!

The presence of a dial does not affect the lag (hysteresis) of the stat, that is a product of how the stat works. A mechanical stat will have greater lag than an electronic one. Electronic dial stats are available, such as the Drayton digistat or digistat RF which are as accurate.

Having a TRV in the room where the roomstat is will break the control feedback loop so the system will not perform correctly

 

[davesparks]

Indeed, pressing the up arrow button to increase the temperature and the down to lower the set temperature such an irritation.

It's not that, it's the programmable functions of them that cause people grief

 

[sean_ork]

It's not that, it's the programmable functions of them that cause people grief

Nothing complicated about that either, but some folks find crossing the road troublesome.

 

[martininnes]

Sorry Sir -
I do not have the experience to debate with you - you win.

As it stands at the moment -
I have a CM900 - fitted with Batteries - that does exactly as intended - namely it has only 2 wires connected; and it controls the temp like a dream. EXCEPT her indoors wants to control the temp at lounge level. (Who am I to argue about any logic).

So - it seems to me; that if as advertised; I can replace the current unit (again with batteries) and advertised as a 2 wire connection (again exactly as what I have) with a unit that sits on the Hallway wall - but gives a wireless unit to control from the lounge or wherever - seems an answer??????

Honeywell DT92E1000 RF Digital Room Thermostat: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

 

[martininnes]

Exactly where I am.....Not difficult................

 

[Octopus]

Sorry Sir -
I do not have the experience to debate with you - you win.

As it stands at the moment -
I have a CM900 - fitted with Batteries - that does exactly as intended - namely it has only 2 wires connected; and it controls the temp like a dream. EXCEPT her indoors wants to control the temp at lounge level. (Who am I to argue about any logic).

So - it seems to me; that if as advertised; I can replace the current unit (again with batteries) and advertised as a 2 wire connection (again exactly as what I have) with a unit that sits on the Hallway wall - but gives a wireless unit to control from the lounge or wherever - seems an answer??????

Honeywell DT92E1000 RF Digital Room Thermostat: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

If if and I say if you decide to control your heating by the temperature of the lounge you better leave the doors open or else you may well have a very cold house

 

[davesparks]

Sorry Sir -
I do not have the experience to debate with you - you win.

As it stands at the moment -
I have a CM900 - fitted with Batteries - that does exactly as intended - namely it has only 2 wires connected; and it controls the temp like a dream. EXCEPT her indoors wants to control the temp at lounge level. (Who am I to argue about any logic).

So - it seems to me; that if as advertised; I can replace the current unit (again with batteries) and advertised as a 2 wire connection (again exactly as what I have) with a unit that sits on the Hallway wall - but gives a wireless unit to control from the lounge or wherever - seems an answer??????

Honeywell DT92E1000 RF Digital Room Thermostat: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

For which the installation instructions here http://www.honeywelluk.com/Documents/Installation-Guide/pdf/1075.pdf clearly state that a 230V live supply so required for and all of the wiring diagrams indicate that a permanent live and neutral plus the two switch wires (one in, one out) are required for the receiver unit (BDR92 relay box) along with absolutely no mention of battery power.


Shall I say it again?

I, like many people here, have fitted a lot of these things and have a bit of a clue about what is required.
The receiver requires a permanent live connection which will not be present at your existing thermostats position.

 

[davesparks]

Nothing complicated about that either, but some folks find crossing the road troublesome.

Compared to turning a dial up and down it is nowhere near as easy.

I'm all in favour of modern technology and gadgets, but when it comes to heating and lighting I want a switch I can turn on for on and off for off. And a lot of people out there agree.

Now going a step further and fitting something like a nest or hive I can fully appreciate as it actually seems to be a good system and gives you the ability to turn it on and off before you get home and actually have a warm house when you want it.

 

[martininnes]

Message - to leesparkykent

Your advice taken. It was simple as you alluded..
THANKS and no angst - Cap Doff to you sir

 

[martininnes]

Gonna give up on this.

The bottom line is this -
A stat that works has 2 wires - AND IT DOES work

I want to replace with a fixed unit - and have a wireless control.
No argument about power etc - NO NEEDED
So for all the doubters...

Original stat replaced with [h=1]Honeywell DT92E1000 RF Digital Room Thermostat[/h]
And now have room total wireless control.

So what's all this stuff about power etc...
Sorted.

 

[davesparks]

Yes the stat you have at the moment works on two wires, that is because it is just an electronic switch which is powered by the batteries.

The DT92E is the same, it uses battery power to operate an electronic switch. But the RF version, which is the wireless version, transmits a signal to the receiver unit, this is the BDR91 unit which does require a permanent mains supply.

This image shows the wiring diagrams, all with a permanent L and N connected along with the two switched lives. and there is even a picture of it fitted with four conductors connected to the two terminal blocks inside it.

I am happy to be proved wrong as a wireless receiver which does not require a mains supply would be incredibly useful for some jobs, and I look forward to seeing the pictures of this unit installed and working without a mains supply!

 

[Leesparkykent]

Yes the stat you have at the moment works on two wires, that is because it is just an electronic switch which is powered by the batteries.

The DT92E is the same, it uses battery power to operate an electronic switch. But the RF version, which is the wireless version, transmits a signal to the receiver unit, this is the BDR91 unit which does require a permanent mains supply.

This image shows the wiring diagrams, all with a permanent L and N connected along with the two switched lives. and there is even a picture of it fitted with four conductors connected to the two terminal blocks inside it.

I am happy to be proved wrong as a wireless receiver which does not require a mains supply would be incredibly useful for some jobs, and I look forward to seeing the pictures of this unit installed and working without a mains supply!

I agree.