Discuss How to test for correct voltage (diy) in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

Knowing the RMS value of an approximate-but-not-perfect sinewave (that has a -10/+6% tolerance on nominal) to 4 significant figures is not especially useful. I've just measured the diameter of my biscuit with a Trimos electronic height gauge as 66.318 mm +/- 2.5μm. Making the measurement to this precision is not helpful because:
a) The biscuit is out-of-round by ~2mm so the implied precision of diameter is unrealistic
b) There are crumbs all over the optical surface table.
c) The biscuit tastes of corrosion inhibitor.

I find Custard Creams to be of particularly poor tolerance. Apart from the British Standard one of course which is held in a laboratory at a constant temperature and humidity. Next to the standard kilogram I believe.
 
I'm seeing terrible runout on the custard creams too, heaven knows what kind of shoddy tooling they are using to bond them. We've made a go/no-go gauge to take round to Asda so we can reject really bad packs at source. Even so, one of the lads has to stop his job 10 mins before tea break and true them all up while the kettle boils.

Anyway, sorry, OP, yes, let's hear more about your scenario and observations and we can suggest a strategy for investigating your power quality.
 
OK. Well here is the scenario. My premises are on a farm. When I first moved in I had a load of metal halide lamps installed. One by one they all failed. Most of them in about a year. I always suspected that it was because the power supply was dodgy.

I'm currently making a tanning bed which I aim to sell to the US. I've sourced a 110 ballast and I tested it today with a transformer. The lamp flickers. There is nothing wrong with the lamp because it works fine with a 230v ballast. I also checked all the connections. All good. So is it a) the ballast b) the transformer or c) dodgy voltage? The dodgy voltage possibility is the easiest to check I think. I've emailed the ballast manufacturer. I'm waiting for a reply.
 
simmple and cheap. a baSIC SOCKET TESTER WITRH VOLTAGE DISPLAY IN WHOLE NUMBERS ( NO DECIMAL POINTS). (AND THE FAT FINGER ON "a" DEPRESSES THE CAPS LOCK. WHAT A STUPID LOCATION.why not put it next to "Q" which is rarley used?

 
I'm currently making a tanning bed which I aim to sell to the US. I've sourced a 110 ballast and I tested it today with a transformer. The lamp flickers. There is nothing wrong with the lamp because it works fine with a 230v ballast. I also checked all the connections. All good. So is it a) the ballast b) the transformer or c) dodgy voltage? The dodgy voltage possibility is the easiest to check I think. I've emailed the ballast manufacturer. I'm waiting for a reply.

OK, since you are manufacturing electrical appliances you presumably have some electrical test equipment?
 
Please post a pic or link to the ballast spec. If it is a US-spec wirewound ballast it will not be suitable for 50Hz operation. The tube will be overrun and the core may saturate especially if the transformer output is high.
 

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