How to wire these mini speakers?

[blennymar]

Please help me how to wire this, it’d be awesome if someone draws a simple diagram like the pic I posted but for my parts, I saw a diy video on YouTube for this mini subwoofer but it’s not clear where all the wires go. It’s only clear for the one speaker set up here in the diagram pic but there’s no diagram for the 2 speaker set up.

These are the parts used
1.mt3608 dc step up converter
2.18350 lithium battery 3.7v 900mah
3.dc 3.7v 5v 3w audio amplifier board
4.3.1 type c connector 5.5v 1a type c micro usb charger
6.4ohm 5w speakers
7.on/off switch

 

[DPG]

Does it say what impedance speakers the amplifier is suitable for driving? Also what impedance are your speakers? (they will probably be marked 4 or 8 Ohms).

This will decide whether you wire your 2 speakers in series or parallel.

 

[blennymar]

Does it say what impedance speakers the amplifier is suitable for driving? Also what impedance are your speakers? (they will probably be marked 4 or 8 Ohms).

This will decide whether you wire your 2 speakers in series or parallel.

I really don’t know, I just know the speakers are 4 ohms. Here’s a pic of how the guy wired it all up, but I can’t tell where all the cables are going. I can post a link to the video if that’s allowed, y’all would definitely know how to wire this if you see the video, but I’m a noob still.
Thanks for the reply

 

[DPG]

That picture shows a different amplifier board - it has 2 speakers outputs.

Having said that, you can connect your 2 speakers in series to your amplifier:

Amplifier --> speaker 1 positive
Speaker 1 negative --> speaker 2 positive
Speaker 2 negative --> amplifier

 

[Avo Mk8]

Your pic of your red circuit board shows the speaker connections are the white sockets, labelled Lout + and - for the left speaker, and Rout + and - for the right speaker.
The latest photo from the video shows the other side of that circuit board with the speaker connections directly soldered to where the connectors are on the other side of the board.
So either use the connector if the mating parts are supplied, or solder the wires as per the picture!

sorry DPG - I was still composing when you posted! - I think they are the same board!

 

[DPG]

Your pic of your red circuit board shows the speaker connections are the white sockets, labelled Lout + and - for the left speaker, and Rout + and - for the right speaker.
The latest photo from the video shows the other side of that circuit board with the speaker connections directly soldered to where the connectors are on the other side of the board.
So either use the connector if the mating parts are supplied, or solder the wires as per the picture!

Apologies, I missed the red board on the left.

Listen to Avo and not me!

 

[Avo Mk8]

Listen to Avo and not me!

Not always a good idea

 

[Avo Mk8]

But what I didn't say is that the first block diagram of how to wire it all up, is not the one you need.
It doesn't show the main red board you have (which appears to be the receiver/amplifier), or how to wire the remaining (presumably power management) boards together.
Is that all the circuit information they gave you?

I think it would be OK for you to post a link to the video, which might help unravel this!

 

[blennymar]

But that’s exactly what I mean the first diagram is just an example of what I wanted, but for my set up, idk how to explain it my bad, what I want is someone that can draw a diagram like the one I posted but for the parts I have, I’ll try to make an example, I’m just not good at explaining

 

[blennymar]

I want something like this, I only know where the ones I drew go though, if they’re even correct.

 

[Avo Mk8]

OK I understand better what you need now.
I've looked at the modules you have, and I'm not sure why you need the MT3608. You might get a bit more power if you used it, but to safely use it I think it would be a good idea to use a multimeter (well, voltmeter) to set it to the correct output voltage.

Your battery is 3.7Volts. The amplifier runs from anywhere between 3.7V and 5 Volts. The MT 3608 power module boosts the battery voltage, adjustable via potentiometer, up to 24Volts, which may damage the amplifier if you turn it up full.
So if you want to use it, you will need to set the output voltage of the MT3608 to 5V before you connect it to the amp.

I suggest you try the amplifier without the MT3608 module, at least to start with.

Basically what you have drawn (in your first post) is correct. Combine it with what you've put in your second sketch (Leaving out the MT3608!)

I hope you can follow my description below, instead of me drawing a diagram, but I can do that later if you need!
I'm assuming you have the flying leads with connectors that came with the amplifier (shown as included in the ad I looked at) but if you haven't you will need a soldering iron!

Wire the battery, USB charger, and the red/black battery cable with the red plug, all as you have drawn. But using your red amplifier PCB instead of the one in your first drawing.
Then solder, or connect however you can, the two white speaker leads with connectors and plug them into the white sockets on the amplifier pcb.
I think that completes the wiring, so charge the battery and see if it works!

Let me know if I've missed anything!

PS: to get any reasonable sound out of the speakers you will need to mount each on a baffle, or in a cabinet or box of some sort.

 

[blennymar]

OK I understand better what you need now.
I've looked at the modules you have, and I'm not sure why you need the MT3608. You might get a bit more power if you used it, but to safely use it I think it would be a good idea to use a multimeter (well, voltmeter) to set it to the correct output voltage.

Your battery is 3.7Volts. The amplifier runs from anywhere between 3.7V and 5 Volts. The MT 3608 power module boosts the battery voltage, adjustable via potentiometer, up to 24Volts, which may damage the amplifier if you turn it up full.
So if you want to use it, you will need to set the output voltage of the MT3608 to 5V before you connect it to the amp.

I suggest you try the amplifier without the MT3608 module, at least to start with.

Basically what you have drawn (in your first post) is correct. Combine it with what you've put in your second sketch (Leaving out the MT3608!)

I hope you can follow my description below, instead of me drawing a diagram, but I can do that later if you need!
I'm assuming you have the flying leads with connectors that came with the amplifier (shown as included in the ad I looked at) but if you haven't you will need a soldering iron!

Wire the battery, USB charger, and the red/black battery cable with the red plug, all as you have drawn. But using your red amplifier PCB instead of the one in your first drawing.
Then solder, or connect however you can, the two white speaker leads with connectors and plug them into the white sockets on the amplifier pcb.
I think that completes the wiring, so charge the battery and see if it works!

Let me know if I've missed anything!

PS: to get any reasonable sound out of the speakers you will need to mount each on a baffle, or in a cabinet or box of some sort.

This is awesome info, but if I understand correctly, to push the speakers to its limits, I need to use the MT3608 right? I really wanna use it, and I do have a voltmeter so I can set it to 5v

Yes the speakers do come with the cables, I do have a soldering iron though and I’m very good at soldering I’m just not good as an electrician that’s why it would be easier for me to just follow a diagram lol, all I know is how to wire is leds lol. If you do draw a diagram, I’m not asking for anything professional just something very simple
Here’s the link to the video, if you have time to watch it you’ll understand way better exactly what I’m trying to do,

not sure if links work here. And yes I’ll make a mini subwoofer box like in this video, I just need to understand how this little set up needs to be wired then I’ll buy multiple of the same parts and make the same set up but with many different subwoofer boxes and all that.

This info is gold to me really I really appreciate it, if you don’t have time to draw the diagram using the mt3608 I’ll just try what you said but I have time to wait

 

[Avo Mk8]

So in the video (but not included in what you see) the constructor has de-soldered the USB connector on the 4056 battery management board, and he uses a separate c type connector pcb which he mounts in the side of the cabinet, but it's not possible to see all his wiring.
I could guess, but I won't.
If you want to use the c connector board that you've got in place of the usb already on the 4056 board, I'm afraid you'll have to work that out. It should be just usb power from the c-type to the corresponding polarity pads the 4056 USB connector was removed from.

I also note in the video the switch is single pole two way - is that used to switch between Off/charging and On?
Yours is single pole on/off, so I've put that switch on the load side, leaving the charging permanently connected.

Initially it might be safest to take the power for the MT3608 from the power out tabs on the 4056 board instead of directly from the battery. But once you start using this in earnest I suspect you will need the oomph you can get directly from the battery to drive the speakers, and I don't know what current limiting properties, if any, the 4056 charging board has.

Do be careful, lithium batteries can release a lot of energy and you don't want to be shorting it out and causing an explosion or fire.

If you see alternative, or completely different, suggestions out there, feel free to adopt such!


Actually on the issue of safety, if it were me doing this I would put a fuse in the +ve battery connection as near to the battery as possible!

 

[DPG]

Wise words there about exercising caution around the lithium battery, especially when charging it or causing an accidental short circuit.

 

[blennymar]

So in the video (but not included in what you see) the constructor has de-soldered the USB connector on the 4056 battery management board, and he uses a separate c type connector pcb which he mounts in the side of the cabinet, but it's not possible to see all his wiring.
I could guess, but I won't.
If you want to use the c connector board that you've got in place of the usb already on the 4056 board, I'm afraid you'll have to work that out. It should be just usb power from the c-type to the corresponding polarity pads the 4056 USB connector was removed from.

I also note in the video the switch is single pole two way - is that used to switch between Off/charging and On?
Yours is single pole on/off, so I've put that switch on the load side, leaving the charging permanently connected.

Initially it might be safest to take the power for the MT3608 from the power out tabs on the 4056 board instead of directly from the battery. But once you start using this in earnest I suspect you will need the oomph you can get directly from the battery to drive the speakers, and I don't know what current limiting properties, if any, the 4056 charging board has.

Do be careful, lithium batteries can release a lot of energy and you don't want to be shorting it out and causing an explosion or fire.

If you see alternative, or completely different, suggestions out there, feel free to adopt such!

View attachment 106304
Actually on the issue of safety, if it were me doing this I would put a fuse in the +ve battery connection as near to the battery as possible!

I’m not sure if I’ll use the seperate c type connector but yes I noticed he took it off and used a seperate one, I might just use the original since that doesn’t affect anything but the placement.

I’ll probably order the single pole 2 way switch so it’s the same, would that make it any safer though?

What type of fuse would I need?
Didn’t think this could be that dangerous

 

[Avo Mk8]

I’m not sure if I’ll use the seperate c type connector but yes I noticed he took it off and used a seperate one, I might just use the original since that doesn’t affect anything but the placement.

Good idea

I’ll probably order the single pole 2 way switch so it’s the same, would that make it any safer though?

If you had a centre off 2-way switch, so one way was charge, centre was battery disconnected, and the other way was "On" I guess that might be safest.

What type of fuse would I need?

I'd suggest a 5A

Didn’t think this could be that dangerous

I recommend you do a bit of research on the safety of Li cells. Don't short or persistently overcharge your cell, and please don't muck about with them as some YouTube video's delight in showing!

Good luck with the project.

 

[blennymar]

Good idea

If you had a centre off 2-way switch, so one way was charge, centre was battery disconnected, and the other way was "On" I guess that might be safest.

I'd suggest a 5A

Didn’t think this could be that dangerous

I recommend you do a bit of research on the safety of Li cells. Don't short or persistently overcharge your cell, and please don't muck about with them as some YouTube video's delight in showing!

Good luck with the project.

So this switch in the pic should work better right?
Yeah I’ll do some research on that, but the little set up from the video I linked is dangerous?

I’m just unsure if I will be able to wire everything with the center off switch and the fuse since it’ll change the set up a bit.

 

[Avo Mk8]

So this switch in the pic should work better right?

It won't work 'better'. It would just be a different way of doing it! But I understand what you mean, would it make your speaker setup better? It would mean you could turn the unit properly "off", whereas in my sketch the charger is permanently connected across the battery, which I think should be OK, but I haven't seen any technical info to justify that assumption!

Yeah I’ll do some research on that, but the little set up from the video I linked is dangerous?

The setup is not "dangerous" any more than any product containing a lithium battery is dangerous. I was trying to warn you that constructing electronics with a lithium cell or battery can be dangerous if you don't take care In what you are doing while you are building it.
There are many instances of lithium batteries catching fire and/or exploding. I just want you to be aware that you must not short the terminals of your cell together, or vastly overcharge it, for your own safety. You owe it to yourself to understand what you are getting into, so you don't accidentally injure yourself!

I’m just unsure if I will be able to wire everything with the center off switch and the fuse since it’ll change the set up a bit.

Putting an in-line fuse in the wire from the positive battery terminal before it goes off to wherever the circuit shows is hardly a significant change, and would provide protection where at the moment there is none.



I would just like for you to educate yourself about the potential (!) dangers of batteries. Just because your project is not using mains electricity does not mean there are no hazards!

 

[blennymar]

It won't work 'better'. It would just be a different way of doing it! But I understand what you mean, would it make your speaker setup better? It would mean you could turn the unit properly "off", whereas in my sketch the charger is permanently connected across the battery, which I think should be OK, but I haven't seen any technical info to justify that assumption!

The setup is not "dangerous" any more than any product containing a lithium battery is dangerous. I was trying to warn you that constructing electronics with a lithium cell or battery can be dangerous if you don't take care In what you are doing while you are building it.
There are many instances of lithium batteries catching fire and/or exploding. I just want you to be aware that you must not short the terminals of your cell together, or vastly overcharge it, for your own safety. You owe it to yourself to understand what you are getting into, so you don't accidentally injure yourself!


Putting an in-line fuse in the wire from the positive battery terminal before it goes off to wherever the circuit shows is hardly a significant change, and would provide protection where at the moment there is none.

View attachment 106319

I would just like for you to educate yourself about the potential (!) dangers of batteries. Just because your project is not using mains electricity does not mean there are no hazards!

Awesome, I’ll buy the fuse and the center off switch and finally try to wire it all up. Thanks for all the advice, and yeah I was aware that these batteries can be very dangerous but I actually forgot, thanks for the heads up
I’ll post it once I try it all out.

 

[blennymar]

So I’m trying to set the step up converter to 5v and for some reason it only lets me go down to 6v, Is my voltmeter a cheap one and just not reading right or maybe I’m doing something wrong? I tried turning it both ways.

 

[Avo Mk8]

So I’m trying to set the step up converter to 5v and for some reason it only lets me go down to 6v, Is my voltmeter a cheap one and just not reading right or maybe I’m doing something wrong? I tried turning it both ways.

I think it very unlikely to be a problem with the multimeter, and I don't see you are doing anything wrong.
You seem to be using AA cells rather than the lithium battery I thought you were going to use, but I don't think that should be a reason for the higher minimum output voltage,
I'd be more inclined to blame the converter as being the problem (eg component outside tolerance or faulty?)
It might be worth putting a small load across the converter when setting it, to see if that changes its behaviour. Have you got say a 100 ohm resistor, or failing that maybe a small filament bulb of 6V or above, eg Christmas tree light! Put that across the output and see if it stays at 6V, or now will go down to the specified 5V.
I can't see anything in the spec for the amp suggesting it would be OK to run it from 6V unfortunately.
Failing that you could try asking the supplier why it only goes down to 6V ! I wondered if it was something basic such as the adjustment potentiometer slider not going to the end of its track correctly!

 

[blennymar]

I think it very unlikely to be a problem with the multimeter, and I don't see you are doing anything wrong.
You seem to be using AA cells rather than the lithium battery I thought you were going to use, but I don't think that should be a reason for the higher minimum output voltage,
I'd be more inclined to blame the converter as being the problem (eg component outside tolerance or faulty?)
It might be worth putting a small load across the converter when setting it, to see if that changes its behaviour. Have you got say a 100 ohm resistor, or failing that maybe a small filament bulb of 6V or above, eg Christmas tree light! Put that across the output and see if it stays at 6V, or now will go down to the specified 5V.
I can't see anything in the spec for the amp suggesting it would be OK to run it from 6V unfortunately.
Failing that you could try asking the supplier why it only goes down to 6V ! I wondered if it was something basic such as the adjustment potentiometer slider not going to the end of its track correctly!

I’m using those batteries just to adjust the step up converter, I will be using the lithium battery once it’s to 5v.
I have 5 step up converters(all the same) so I’ll try another one to see if that’s the problem

Btw I do have those 3 pin leds, I think it’s a cathode? But idk where I’d have to wire that

Edit: I tried the lithium battery to set the voltage on the step up converter and it’s even worst only goes down to 7.4v :s

 

[Avo Mk8]

Yes try others! It's a bit concerning that the output voltage is not very stable with changing input voltage. I would have expected better, but I've no knowledge of this part other than reading the ads on the net!
I would encourage you to try a load on the converter, but preferably not by using the amplifier yet!
Good luck with the experiments.

 

[blennymar]

I tried another step up converter, and it’s the same thing, and even added 100 ohm resistor made no difference, then I tried a 400 ohm resistor and nothing is making a difference for the output, lowest keeps at 7.3 with the lithium battery, can’t believe how complicated this is

 

[Avo Mk8]

I tried another step up converter, and it’s the same thing, and even added 100 ohm resistor made no difference, then I tried a 400 ohm resistor and nothing is making a difference for the output, lowest keeps at 7.3 with the lithium battery, can’t believe how complicated this is

I've just noticed you have the multimeter set on the a.c. voltage (wavy line symbol) setting. There is a d.c. voltage range (straight line symbol) selectable round anticlockwise from your present setting, and you want it set on the 20V range for these measurements.

You might be getting misleading readings measuring dc on an a.c. range, especially if something is oscillating here. I'm not sure this is the only problem though.

 

[blennymar]

I've just noticed you have the multimeter set on the a.c. voltage (wavy line symbol) setting. There is a d.c. voltage range (straight line symbol) selectable round anticlockwise from your present setting, and you want it set on the 20V setting for these measurements.
You might be getting misleading readings measuring dc on an a.c. range, especially if something is oscillating here. I'm not sure this is the only problem though.

I just noticed the same! I mean I didn’t know I had it wrong until a few mins ago I watched a video and saw someone has the voltmeter setting on the straight line, being a noob sucks lol, it’s reading 5v on the straight line from what I see? So I guess that was the problem?

 

[DPG]

I just noticed the same! I mean I didn’t know I had it wrong until a few mins ago I watched a video and saw someone has the voltmeter setting on the straight line, being a noob sucks lol, it’s reading 5v on the straight line from what I see? So I guess that was the problem?

That sounds better!

I'm surprised at the reading you got on the AC range though. I'm guessing the output of the voltage converter is probably not particularly smooth.

 

[Avo Mk8]

See, it's not complicated really
Off you go!

Have you any info/ part no. on the dual colour led you wanted to connect. I seem to remember from the video it replaced two led's on one of the boards, but I may be misremembering.

 

[blennymar]

See, it's not complicated really
Off you go!

Have you any info/ part no. on the dual colour led you wanted to connect. I seem to remember from the video it replaced two led's on one of the boards, but I may be misremembering.

It’s not, but not knowing this stuff can make it confusing lol.
This is the info for the leds

 

[Avo Mk8]

Thanks I'll have a look, though might be tomorrow!

 

[blennymar]

Thanks I'll have a look, though might be tomorrow!

Thanks I appreciate all the help

 

[blennymar]

So I was able to make the speakers work yesterday, everything seems to be working good, the battery didn’t get hot at all or anything thanks for all the help for real, now I’m just not sure if that 3 pin(once wired) led will tell me when the lithium battery is charged or not

 

[Avo Mk8]

Glad to hear it's working! Well done!

On the matter of knowing whether the battery is charged or not from the dual led, I'm sure you know the dual LED's you've got can't do anything like that on their own.
The 4056 charging board has the necessary circuitry and two LED's on it that do this.
What the constructor in the video did for his build was to remove the surface mount LED's from the board, and then wire the pads to the dual LED that he then mounted on the side of his speaker cabinet.

To use your dual LED, you will need to unsolder the surface mount LED's from the board and attach, either directly or via flying leads, the 3-wire diode. I'm thinking the two middle pads may be connected together, and that may then be suitable for the centre wire of your LED, and then connect the other red and blue leads (the right way round!). I think you'll have to prod around with your meter on the ohms range to establish which way round the surface mount LED's are currently on the board (ie which is anode and which is cathode), and if my guess above is correct!.

I haven't found enough info to be able to sketch it for you with any certainty!. I'm afraid I'll leave it with you, and using what you see and can measure about diode polarity's on your 4056 board, hopefully you can get your red/blue diode connected up! Best of luck.

 

[blennymar]

Glad to hear it's working! Well done!

On the matter of knowing whether the battery is charged or not from the dual led, I'm sure you know the dual LED's you've got can't do anything like that on their own.
The 4056 charging board has the necessary circuitry and two LED's on it that do this.
What the constructor in the video did for his build was to remove the surface mount LED's from the board, and then wire the pads to the dual LED that he then mounted on the side of his speaker cabinet.

To use your dual LED, you will need to unsolder the surface mount LED's from the board and attach, either directly or via flying leads, the 3-wire diode. I'm thinking the two middle pads may be connected together, and that may then be suitable for the centre wire of your LED, and then connect the other red and blue leads (the right way round!). I think you'll have to prod around with your meter on the ohms range to establish which way round the surface mount LED's are currently on the board (ie which is anode and which is cathode), and if my guess above is correct!.

I haven't found enough info to be able to sketch it for you with any certainty!. I'm afraid I'll leave it with you, and using what you see and can measure about diode polarity's on your 4056 board, hopefully you can get your red/blue diode connected up! Best of luck.
View attachment 106597

I don’t really understand rn, maybe if I keep reading your message lol but I didn’t know the board has its own leds I’ll try using those for now, gotta start working on the enclosure anyway

 

[Avo Mk8]

I'll leave you to consider wot I rote.
To use your 3-pin led, you will have to remove the two on the board, labelled 'red light' and 'blue light' in the pic above.
But don't take them off the board before finding out which way round they are connected.
So learn how to check diodes with a multimeter!
I know, I know, you just want to get on and make things, but you will need to get your head round stuff on the way too!

 

[blennymar]

I'll leave you to consider wot I rote.
To use your 3-pin led, you will have to remove the two on the board, labelled 'red light' and 'blue light' in the pic above.
But don't take them off the board before finding out which way round they are connected.
So learn how to check diodes with a multimeter!
I know, I know, you just want to get on and make things, but you will need to get your head round stuff on the way too!

Ok I think I understand now, I’ll try to find out how to check them, thanks