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Pat testing

Discuss Pat testing in the Electrical Testing & PAT Testing Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

Yes point taken and I don't disagree but as a PAT service it stops at the Plug for me. I'm happy to test hard wired items with my safeblock but not at normal rates!

Just be aware that the "You only need to test anything with a plug top on it " approach is no excuse in a court of law as you are the "legally compitent person" so you aint got a get out of jail card like Joe Public who will claim ignorance and stating the fixed equipment is a part of the fixed wiring is deception so be aware
 
Just be aware that the "You only need to test anything with a plug top on it " approach is no excuse in a court of law as you are the "legally compitent person" so you aint got a get out of jail card like Joe Public who will claim ignorance and stating the fixed equipment is a part of the fixed wiring is deception so be aware

I take your point but hope I am covered with my agreement with the customer that says only appliances that are connected to the fixed installation by way of a plug will be tested.
I'm happy to test the rest but not at the agreed plug in rate.
 
its a grey area, when i dont the course , i remember the guy saying anyone can do the course but only test the fues spur connections off the installation if competent and trained todo so..


it wasnt a clear cut answer
 
Well the lecturer on my course did not mince his words and he feeds into the bods that oversee this and it was fixed wiring comes under I&T All electrical equipment whether hard wired in or plug topped comes under ISI&TEE (PAT).

As he said this is causing problems as PAT specialists are saying plug top only the COP says otherwise so whats the problem I hear you say well equipment hard wired in cannot be tested by PAT trained guys only electricians are compitent to do so so again whats the problem well he reckons ISI&TEE will need a relaunch because of the word PAT infers that it is only portable equipment that need tested
also built in equipment is being ignored along with storage and wall convector heaters .

I had this problem this week but got around it by making up a lead to test the equipment via the DP switch above the worktop. I asked why not give the PAT guy more training but he said no you cannot do that and that they can no longer ignore fixed appliances so I think the new ISI&TEE COP is coming out at the end of the year so look out for a promotion

PS IPU I am not telling you how I made the lead up so this is a trade test for you on how I did it
 
Just to add storage heaters , ovens, hoods, come under ISI&TEE[/QUOTE]

I do those plus electric showers, and central heating boilers. Am I going OTT???
 
Just to add storage heaters , ovens, hoods, come under ISI&TEE

I do those plus electric showers, and central heating boilers. Am I going OTT???[/QUOTE]

No your not but the problem you have is that PAT companies spreading the urban myth you dont have to do them as they are part of the fixed wiring so I just wish the authorities would come out and say that x y and z should be tested.This leaves us piggy in the middle because if we do them then the cost goes up and the agent says you are more expensive than the PAT company.

IPU by the way I think In should get a cut from your business seeing I helped you so much LOL
 
10 cafes to do now son, and the word is spreading , maybe you could come live here and do the work for me , then il give you a cut and the next time im in livingston il come work with you while the other half galavants
 
Dont work in Livingston as its bandit country no I work in the big smoke plus I would be better coming over to help you out or I could just buy over your business
 
Lol... 59.00 call out first 20 items free, 3.50 a fuse replaement.. 6.50 a plug top =

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IF I MAKE IT BIG , IL LET YOUR TEST MY PROPERTY PORTFOLIO
 
When testing a kettle the best place to get a good earth is the element. If it's a solid base kettle then try putting a screwdriver onto the base and putting the clip onto that.

Not all kettles are Class 1 these days, although they do not have the "square within square" symbol, tell me; where is the extranious metal part on them?
 
When testing a kettle the best place to get a good earth is the element. If it's a solid base kettle then try putting a screwdriver onto the base and putting the clip onto that.

Not all kettles are Class 1 these days, although they do not have the "square within square" symbol, tell me; where is the extranious metal part on them?
Class I do not have to have exposed metal, they only need to be relying on basic insulation AND earthing for protection so they must have a cpc.
If they are class II then they must have double or reinforced insulation for protection and therefore not require an earth.
 
Also one to look out for Delongie make convector heaters but their recent one have metal front/back/top/bottom but plastic on the sides these are marked Class II not easy when you get the 2 different ones on the same job
 
Mines only does 200mA

Hi guys

I have been asked to do a bit of PAT by a customer so i have just bought a seaward 250 it was not cheap in my view yet i am wondering if it was a bad buy , reading the above posts it seems when i test IT stuff i need to test earth bond at 100mA but the seaward does not so far as i can see allow you to change this setting, i can change the I/R to 250 or 500 and the leakage range from 0.75 to 3.50 mA
any help at all please

thanks
 

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