Pat testing

[i=p/u]

Is a kettle class 1 or class 11 , couldnt get continuity reading but cable has cpc in it

AlSo extension seem class 11 but have cpc in them as well ?

So are they class 1 or 11 in your experience

Strange

 

[polo1]

Normally class 1. Can you not put the wander lead onto the element/internal base of the kettle?

 

[i=p/u]

Cheers for replying . Is 4 way extension leads class 1 as have earth or class 11 as have all insulated cover?

I think there class 11 but have an earth for appliances plugged in. Because gives you continuity result where class 11 wouldn't . Sorry of confusion is working here.

 

[nickblake]

All extensions should be tested as class 1 as they could be used for class 1 items , think about it , as with 110 volt insulating transformers they are class one , and watch out for the home made extensions made with 2 core cable all kettles are class one if you cant get a reading it could be due to a buildup of scale on the element try moving the earth clamp backwards and forwards whilst attatched to the element

 

[oldtimer]

ik you are using a kt71 it has a ext lead test you can do

 

[i=p/u]

But when recording results of extension lead is it class 1 class11 ?

 

[Megahertz]

Hi, The way to tell if something is Class 1 or Class 2 is to look for the 'square box' symbol. If you see that symbol then it's Class 2, if not then you must treat it as a Class 1.

Extension leads should ALWAYS be made of 3 core cable, and will need testing for Earth Bond and Insulation. Most PAT Testers also have the facility to do a Polarity test as well.

When testing a kettle the best place to get a good earth is the element. If it's a solid base kettle then try putting a screwdriver onto the base and putting the clip onto that.

If your PAT Tester doesn't have a facility for testing extension leads (all the modern ones do) then another option is to carry out the earth and insulation tests on the kettle, then plug that into the end of the extension lead and do the same tests again. You might get a slightly higher earth bond reading, dependent on the length of the cable.

Hope this helps!

Tim

 

[Megahertz]

But when recording results of extension lead is it class 1 class11 ?

Always a class 1. Record the value you obtained for the earth bond test, and you can usually record the insulation test and Polarity as 'Pass' - you would expect a reading 'off the scale' for the insulation.

 

[i=p/u]

Aye earth bond is 0.00 on most items , IR >20M
Which is all good

But the test results don't asK for anything other than earth bond and ,IR


Its a horrible we job lol ,but cheers guys

What about ATM machines, could nt disconnect do I just write visual on at report?

 

[i=p/u]

Also there was s 3p oven rating 9.8kw on an isolated switch. Where does this rating stand? I just did a visual and stickered it ,am I wrong

 

[oldtimer]

Also there was s 3p oven rating 9.8kw on an isolated switch. Where does this rating stand? I just did a visual and stickered it ,am I wrong

Yep you should have done earth and IR tests

 

[i=p/u]

Ok il scoot up and do it

 

[Brightspark2]

Aye earth bond is 0.00 on most items

Thats surprising, doesnt sound right. We just had our PAT tester calibrated and on the earth bond for IEC leads out of about 30 leads everyone read 0.00ohms, so Ive sent it back.

Also as mentioned look for the 2 squares symbol, if its not there then test it as class 1...

 

[i=p/u]

what about atm machines, that cant be unplugged ???

some earth bonds were0.04 too 0.08 but most were resistance free

 

[i=p/u]

i couldnt see no class 11 on computer equipment, is this mostly class one as well. i.e flat monitors and destops

 

[sparks1973]

Hi, The way to tell if something is Class 1 or Class 2 is to look for the 'square box' symbol. If you see that symbol then it's Class 2, if not then you must treat it as a Class 1.

Extension leads should ALWAYS be made of 3 core cable, and will need testing for Earth Bond and Insulation. Most PAT Testers also have the facility to do a Polarity test as well.

When testing a kettle the best place to get a good earth is the element. If it's a solid base kettle then try putting a screwdriver onto the base and putting the clip onto that.

If your PAT Tester doesn't have a facility for testing extension leads (all the modern ones do) then another option is to carry out the earth and insulation tests on the kettle, then plug that into the end of the extension lead and do the same tests again. You might get a slightly higher earth bond reading, dependent on the length of the cable.

Hope this helps!

Tim

and if theres no evidence of the double square logo....or your unsure/can`t confirm/not verefied that an item is either class 1 or 2.....then treat it as class 1...

 

[Brightspark2]

Unplug the IEC lead and test that then check the monitor/tower for damage...

Sent from my Xperia S using next doors WIFI.

 

[stoneworld]

Yep you should have done earth and IR tests

if it was hard wired into an isolator I would not class it as portable. that's part of the fixed instalation.

 

[oldtimer]

if it was hard wired into an isolator I would not class it as portable. that's part of the fixed instalation.

Emm no its not, a fixed appliance comes under ISI&TEE formally PAT a fixed installation stops at the socket /FCU/DP isolator thats what is causing a lot of bother within PAT as guys who are PAT trained and not electricians are not authorised to go into FCUs and DP isolators so the urban myth of if it aint got a plug top on it you dont PAT test well thats just plain wrong if its electrical equipment no matter how its wired then it supposed to be PAT tested.

Just to add storage heaters , ovens, hoods, come under ISI&TEE

 

[stoneworld]

Emm no its not, a fixed appliance comes under ISI&TEE formally PAT a fixed installation stops at the socket /FCU/DP isolator thats what is causing a lot of bother within PAT as guys who are PAT trained and not electricians are not authorised to go into FCUs and DP isolators so the urban myth of if it aint got a plug top on it you dont PAT test well thats just plain wrong if its electrical equipment no matter how its wired then it supposed to be PAT tested.

Just to add storage heaters , ovens, hoods, come under ISI&TEE

Yes point taken and I don't disagree but as a PAT service it stops at the Plug for me. I'm happy to test hard wired items with my safeblock but not at normal rates!