Pat testing

[i=p/u]

Is a kettle class 1 or class 11 , couldnt get continuity reading but cable has cpc in it

AlSo extension seem class 11 but have cpc in them as well ?

So are they class 1 or 11 in your experience

Strange

 

[polo1]

Normally class 1. Can you not put the wander lead onto the element/internal base of the kettle?

 

[i=p/u]

Cheers for replying . Is 4 way extension leads class 1 as have earth or class 11 as have all insulated cover?

I think there class 11 but have an earth for appliances plugged in. Because gives you continuity result where class 11 wouldn't . Sorry of confusion is working here.

 

[nickblake]

All extensions should be tested as class 1 as they could be used for class 1 items , think about it , as with 110 volt insulating transformers they are class one , and watch out for the home made extensions made with 2 core cable all kettles are class one if you cant get a reading it could be due to a buildup of scale on the element try moving the earth clamp backwards and forwards whilst attatched to the element

 

[oldtimer]

ik you are using a kt71 it has a ext lead test you can do

 

[i=p/u]

But when recording results of extension lead is it class 1 class11 ?

 

[Megahertz]

Hi, The way to tell if something is Class 1 or Class 2 is to look for the 'square box' symbol. If you see that symbol then it's Class 2, if not then you must treat it as a Class 1.

Extension leads should ALWAYS be made of 3 core cable, and will need testing for Earth Bond and Insulation. Most PAT Testers also have the facility to do a Polarity test as well.

When testing a kettle the best place to get a good earth is the element. If it's a solid base kettle then try putting a screwdriver onto the base and putting the clip onto that.

If your PAT Tester doesn't have a facility for testing extension leads (all the modern ones do) then another option is to carry out the earth and insulation tests on the kettle, then plug that into the end of the extension lead and do the same tests again. You might get a slightly higher earth bond reading, dependent on the length of the cable.

Hope this helps!

Tim

 

[Megahertz]

But when recording results of extension lead is it class 1 class11 ?

Always a class 1. Record the value you obtained for the earth bond test, and you can usually record the insulation test and Polarity as 'Pass' - you would expect a reading 'off the scale' for the insulation.

 

[i=p/u]

Aye earth bond is 0.00 on most items , IR >20M
Which is all good

But the test results don't asK for anything other than earth bond and ,IR


Its a horrible we job lol ,but cheers guys

What about ATM machines, could nt disconnect do I just write visual on at report?

 

[i=p/u]

Also there was s 3p oven rating 9.8kw on an isolated switch. Where does this rating stand? I just did a visual and stickered it ,am I wrong

 

[oldtimer]

Also there was s 3p oven rating 9.8kw on an isolated switch. Where does this rating stand? I just did a visual and stickered it ,am I wrong

Yep you should have done earth and IR tests

 

[i=p/u]

Ok il scoot up and do it

 

[Brightspark2]

Aye earth bond is 0.00 on most items

Thats surprising, doesnt sound right. We just had our PAT tester calibrated and on the earth bond for IEC leads out of about 30 leads everyone read 0.00ohms, so Ive sent it back.

Also as mentioned look for the 2 squares symbol, if its not there then test it as class 1...

 

[i=p/u]

what about atm machines, that cant be unplugged ???

some earth bonds were0.04 too 0.08 but most were resistance free

 

[i=p/u]

i couldnt see no class 11 on computer equipment, is this mostly class one as well. i.e flat monitors and destops

 

[sparks1973]

Hi, The way to tell if something is Class 1 or Class 2 is to look for the 'square box' symbol. If you see that symbol then it's Class 2, if not then you must treat it as a Class 1.

Extension leads should ALWAYS be made of 3 core cable, and will need testing for Earth Bond and Insulation. Most PAT Testers also have the facility to do a Polarity test as well.

When testing a kettle the best place to get a good earth is the element. If it's a solid base kettle then try putting a screwdriver onto the base and putting the clip onto that.

If your PAT Tester doesn't have a facility for testing extension leads (all the modern ones do) then another option is to carry out the earth and insulation tests on the kettle, then plug that into the end of the extension lead and do the same tests again. You might get a slightly higher earth bond reading, dependent on the length of the cable.

Hope this helps!

Tim

and if theres no evidence of the double square logo....or your unsure/can`t confirm/not verefied that an item is either class 1 or 2.....then treat it as class 1...

 

[Brightspark2]

Unplug the IEC lead and test that then check the monitor/tower for damage...

Sent from my Xperia S using next doors WIFI.

 

[stoneworld]

Yep you should have done earth and IR tests

if it was hard wired into an isolator I would not class it as portable. that's part of the fixed instalation.

 

[oldtimer]

if it was hard wired into an isolator I would not class it as portable. that's part of the fixed instalation.

Emm no its not, a fixed appliance comes under ISI&TEE formally PAT a fixed installation stops at the socket /FCU/DP isolator thats what is causing a lot of bother within PAT as guys who are PAT trained and not electricians are not authorised to go into FCUs and DP isolators so the urban myth of if it aint got a plug top on it you dont PAT test well thats just plain wrong if its electrical equipment no matter how its wired then it supposed to be PAT tested.

Just to add storage heaters , ovens, hoods, come under ISI&TEE

 

[stoneworld]

Emm no its not, a fixed appliance comes under ISI&TEE formally PAT a fixed installation stops at the socket /FCU/DP isolator thats what is causing a lot of bother within PAT as guys who are PAT trained and not electricians are not authorised to go into FCUs and DP isolators so the urban myth of if it aint got a plug top on it you dont PAT test well thats just plain wrong if its electrical equipment no matter how its wired then it supposed to be PAT tested.

Just to add storage heaters , ovens, hoods, come under ISI&TEE

Yes point taken and I don't disagree but as a PAT service it stops at the Plug for me. I'm happy to test hard wired items with my safeblock but not at normal rates!

 

[oldtimer]

Yes point taken and I don't disagree but as a PAT service it stops at the Plug for me. I'm happy to test hard wired items with my safeblock but not at normal rates!

Just be aware that the "You only need to test anything with a plug top on it " approach is no excuse in a court of law as you are the "legally compitent person" so you aint got a get out of jail card like Joe Public who will claim ignorance and stating the fixed equipment is a part of the fixed wiring is deception so be aware

 

[stoneworld]

Just be aware that the "You only need to test anything with a plug top on it " approach is no excuse in a court of law as you are the "legally compitent person" so you aint got a get out of jail card like Joe Public who will claim ignorance and stating the fixed equipment is a part of the fixed wiring is deception so be aware

I take your point but hope I am covered with my agreement with the customer that says only appliances that are connected to the fixed installation by way of a plug will be tested.
I'm happy to test the rest but not at the agreed plug in rate.

 

[i=p/u]

its a grey area, when i dont the course , i remember the guy saying anyone can do the course but only test the fues spur connections off the installation if competent and trained todo so..


it wasnt a clear cut answer

 

[oldtimer]

Well the lecturer on my course did not mince his words and he feeds into the bods that oversee this and it was fixed wiring comes under I&T All electrical equipment whether hard wired in or plug topped comes under ISI&TEE (PAT).

As he said this is causing problems as PAT specialists are saying plug top only the COP says otherwise so whats the problem I hear you say well equipment hard wired in cannot be tested by PAT trained guys only electricians are compitent to do so so again whats the problem well he reckons ISI&TEE will need a relaunch because of the word PAT infers that it is only portable equipment that need tested
also built in equipment is being ignored along with storage and wall convector heaters .

I had this problem this week but got around it by making up a lead to test the equipment via the DP switch above the worktop. I asked why not give the PAT guy more training but he said no you cannot do that and that they can no longer ignore fixed appliances so I think the new ISI&TEE COP is coming out at the end of the year so look out for a promotion

PS IPU I am not telling you how I made the lead up so this is a trade test for you on how I did it

 

[i=p/u]

plugtop , flex and wago and hit the button baby

 

[oldtimer]

plugtop , flex and wago and hit the button baby

Naa a kewtech R1+R2 plug top and your leads from your MFT BABY

Deary Dear

 

[i=p/u]

Very innovative of you chap.....

 

[drew35]

Just to add storage heaters , ovens, hoods, come under ISI&TEE[/QUOTE]

I do those plus electric showers, and central heating boilers. Am I going OTT???

 

[i=p/u]

Yes drew take a week off....

 

[ohreally]

I do those plus electric showers, and central heating boilers. Am I going OTT???

Given the shower will be supplied by means of cable, then yes i would say so.

Boilers, I'd be wary of damaging a board with that one.

 

[oldtimer]

Just to add storage heaters , ovens, hoods, come under ISI&TEE

I do those plus electric showers, and central heating boilers. Am I going OTT???[/QUOTE]

No your not but the problem you have is that PAT companies spreading the urban myth you dont have to do them as they are part of the fixed wiring so I just wish the authorities would come out and say that x y and z should be tested.This leaves us piggy in the middle because if we do them then the cost goes up and the agent says you are more expensive than the PAT company.

IPU by the way I think In should get a cut from your business seeing I helped you so much LOL

 

[i=p/u]

10 cafes to do now son, and the word is spreading , maybe you could come live here and do the work for me , then il give you a cut and the next time im in livingston il come work with you while the other half galavants

 

[oldtimer]

Dont work in Livingston as its bandit country no I work in the big smoke plus I would be better coming over to help you out or I could just buy over your business

 

[i=p/u]

Lol... 59.00 call out first 20 items free, 3.50 a fuse replaement.. 6.50 a plug top =

- - - Updated - - -

IF I MAKE IT BIG , IL LET YOUR TEST MY PROPERTY PORTFOLIO

 

[Patman]

Remember with IT equipment - earth bond only @ 100mA, insulation - but don't power up. (Equipt. crash can occur).

 

[i=p/u]

Mines only does 200mA

 

[Marnik]

When testing a kettle the best place to get a good earth is the element. If it's a solid base kettle then try putting a screwdriver onto the base and putting the clip onto that.

Not all kettles are Class 1 these days, although they do not have the "square within square" symbol, tell me; where is the extranious metal part on them?

 

[Richard Burns]

When testing a kettle the best place to get a good earth is the element. If it's a solid base kettle then try putting a screwdriver onto the base and putting the clip onto that.

Not all kettles are Class 1 these days, although they do not have the "square within square" symbol, tell me; where is the extranious metal part on them?

Class I do not have to have exposed metal, they only need to be relying on basic insulation AND earthing for protection so they must have a cpc.
If they are class II then they must have double or reinforced insulation for protection and therefore not require an earth.

 

[oldtimer]

Also one to look out for Delongie make convector heaters but their recent one have metal front/back/top/bottom but plastic on the sides these are marked Class II not easy when you get the 2 different ones on the same job

 

[morph]

Mines only does 200mA

Hi guys

I have been asked to do a bit of PAT by a customer so i have just bought a seaward 250 it was not cheap in my view yet i am wondering if it was a bad buy , reading the above posts it seems when i test IT stuff i need to test earth bond at 100mA but the seaward does not so far as i can see allow you to change this setting, i can change the I/R to 250 or 500 and the leakage range from 0.75 to 3.50 mA
any help at all please

thanks

 

[zap]

My flymo has a class II extension lead.

 

[oldtimer]

Zap not sure what you are saying here the black plug on the left is a Black and Decker the one on the right orange is the Flymo

 

[zap]

I've owned the flymo for yonks and its extension lead. It was just to let people know that they do exists.

 

[tony mc]

So how do you plug a kettle (or anything else) into that extention lead !

Is that lead not specific for class 11 equipment you use in the garden etc?

I think you will find that the COP re PAT state

Where extensions lead is fitted with a standard 3 pin socket outlet it should be tested as per a CLASS 1 appliance!!



Sent from my Redifusion cable outlet (Window sill)

 

[zap]

Hi oldtimer, you're right about the interfaces. It's not been used since I moved to my current location 8 years ago. I'm not certain but I may have bought it second hand so the extension lead may well be bodged. I've no plans to use it I've just stored it in the shed 'just in case'.

Tony, yes it came with the flymo, and I agree with the rest of your post.

 

[Patman]

You need to take the approach - this is NOT an extension lead but the POWER CORD for the class II appliance in question.

 

[stoneworld]

Anyone like the 'Class II' extension lead I found the other day?
I just cut the end off and said 'NO!' the chap said 'ah yeah .... that was from my strimmer...'

 

[draelectricals]

Hi,

A kettle is a class 1 item; you should be able to get the earth clip onto the element inside the kettle.

An extension lead in the UK should always be class 1 and be treated as such.

Is a kettle class 1 or class 11 , couldnt get continuity reading but cable has cpc in it

AlSo extension seem class 11 but have cpc in them as well ?

So are they class 1 or 11 in your experience

Strange

 

[draelectricals]

Your client has used the cable he had for his strimmer and made it into an extension lead. Leads for strimmers and lawnmowers generally don't have an earth. I have seen this many times before.

Anyone like the 'Class II' extension lead I found the other day?
I just cut the end off and said 'NO!' the chap said 'ah yeah .... that was from my strimmer...'
View attachment 14776

 

[oldtimer]

Hi,

A kettle is a class 1 item; you should be able to get the earth clip onto the element inside the kettle.

An extension lead in the UK should always be class 1 and be treated as such.

Yep but the anomaly is garden equipment with the 2 core leads although the thing for me is checking the lead condition and the fuse rating in my case I added PAT to my services 9 months ago and I have already found 2 damaged hoover leads with the bare conductors being exposed and bedside lights with 13 amp fuses in them which indicates to me that the firms specializing in PAT who did the test before me are plugging in the equipment and pushing a button without doing these checks