Discuss Quality new install in the Electricians Chat - Off Topic Chat area at ElectriciansForums.net

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Fed up with finding rubbish like this in new builds. By a NICEIC Approved Contractor

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Per Ardua Ad Astra. (or R.A.F.).
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Quick as you can, lads. We’re on a price here.

Writing on the circuits sticker (with a sharpy) AND using the little pictures. That’s classy.

What’s a “Coker”?

usually a single edge razor blade for chopping coke blocks into powder.
 
Absolutely standard new build installation, on a price throw it in lash it up sod the testing

Seen stuff like this every week of the year
 
I dint know what’s more horrific, the state of the wiring rats nest or the fact the dumb --- left an unused mcb in the board.
I would have had that straight out and in my sky rocket...
 
We stopped doing new builds years ago, couldn't compete with £1375 for a 3 bed semi!

At those sort of prices you will go bust pretty quickly

There is a polish sparks near me who offers a full house rewire for £1000 all in

It’s pointless exercise even trying to compete at those rates By the Time you have purchased all branded materials there is barely a couple hundred quid left for labour
 
Looks like a classic case of the Boss of the company being assessed by the NICEIC and employing Dave from the pub to do the work, awful job. And he has stripped the Tand E by using the cpc to rip the sheathing away.
This is a terrible installation I agree but what's wrong with stripping T&E like that? It's the way I was told/taught to do it in college too and I always just assumed it was the norm
 
leaves it dog rough. best way is with an electrician's knife or these:

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only problem with these is if boxes/enclosures already fitted, can't get close enough to the entry point.

disclaimer.... pic shows cheap set. mine are Klein, but the pic is copyright so can't paste. :p:p:p.
 
This is a terrible installation I agree but what's wrong with stripping T&E like that? It's the way I was told/taught to do it in college too and I always just assumed it was the norm
What Tel said
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This is a terrible installation I agree but what's wrong with stripping T&E like that? It's the way I was told/taught to do it in college too and I always just assumed it was the norm
Obviously the Tutor hasn't been shown / told how to Strip T and E properly, so he/she passes on this rough method to the unsuspecting Students. Oh forgot to say I personally would NOT use a Stanley type knife, the blade is far to thin for this work, you need a decent folding knife oe one of the many fixed blade Electricians knifes of which there are many on the market CK do a decent folding knife, about a tenner I think
 
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leaves it dog rough. best way is with an electrician's knife or these:

View attachment 51768View attachment 51767only problem with these is if boxes/enclosures already fitted, can't get close enough to the entry point.

disclaimer.... pic shows cheap set. mine are Klein, but the pic is copyright so can't paste. :p:p:p.

How do you this thing inside a back box?
Nothing wrong with using the earth wire to strip the sheathing. A knife will be worse as you won't be able too see if you have caused any damage to the insulation of live conductors.
 
How do you this thing inside a back box?
Nothing wrong with using the earth wire to strip the sheathing. A knife will be worse as you won't be able too see if you have caused any damage to the insulation of live conductors.
Cid without being rude. I totally disagree with the Statement "you wont be able to see "1f the live conductors have been damaged if you use a knife", using the cpc to strip the cable bad practice in my book and many others I would imagine. Can't have any pride in your workmanship if you leave the ends like the example shown in the OP
 
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Also notice the neutrals of the RFC in separate terminals, no blue sleeving to the grey conductor used as a neutral or brown sleeving to the black but most worrying is the 3 32A CBs feeding 2.5mm cables
 
Cid without being rude. I totally disagree with the Statement "you wont be able to see "1f the live conductors have been damaged if you use a knife", using the cpc to strip the cable bad practice in my book and many others I would imagine. Can't have any pride in your workmanship if you leave the ends like the example shown in the OP

It's not been done properly in the OP
Cid without being rude. I totally disagree with the Statement "you wont be able to see "1f the live conductors have been damaged if you use a knife", using the cpc to strip the cable bad practice in my book and many others I would imagine. Can't have any pride in your workmanship if you leave the ends like the example shown in the OP

It's not been done properly in that picture. When done properly it is inconspicuous and out of the way. There's no rational explanation why this is bad practice.
 
Whenever possible, I strip the sheath before securing the back boxes. when I do use the cpc tug and snap method, I trim the sheath off square with these:
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I don’t think there’s a “right or wrong way” to strip the t&e back, whether you use the cpc, Line & neutral conductors (as shown in the GSH college videos) or an electricians knife, it’s whatever way you prefer to do and if it works for you, then all’s good with the world.

I personally can’t use the L & N to peel the outer sheath back as I don’t have 100% strength in my hands anymore, so I use the cpc with my pliers to strip it back (as taught), plus I’m too heavy handed to use my electricians knive and always cut through the l & n pvc exposing the copper.
 
I have seen guys using a sharp Stanley knife to strip the sheath off t@e and if you check the cut I will guarantee 9 times out of 10 they have sliced right into the conductor insulation.
Auto strippers are great but you really struggle to get them inside the sunken in back boxes.

I have seen strippers with a t&e shaped stripping hole but again you can’t get them inside the box. You need to strip Before putting into the box.
 
I tend to strip t&e using the CPC. I pull the CPC back gently and always trim the outer sheath away neatly afterwards. I have tried a sparks knife but never managed to get used to it. Apart from it possibly looking cack as per the photo above, I don't see an issue with it electrically.
 
Good quality t&e helps. I’ve got a drum of 2.5 just now that the grey sheath is glued to the blue insulation and is a job to pick off. And that’s from a wholesaler!

Either pull the cpc, or start a cut with knife and then pull the conductors apart. Trim off excess grey with knife.

The board in the OP just needs a little more care to tidy it up.
 
Agree

A couple hours work and all the t@e cables in the board could all be removed , stripped back and re terminated neatly. Then the board neatly re labelled

Only thing not sure about is the armoured and how it’s terminated , that might take some further investigation
 
Obviously the Tutor hasn't been shown / told how to Strip T and E properly, so he/she passes on this rough method to the unsuspecting Students.

can’t be that obvious Pete mate, my college tutor went through the various ways of stripping cable. He then showed us some material doing a bit of a mythbusters that using the cpc caused it to stretch etc. He finished by advising that using the cpc was the safest way to ensure least damage to any of the cores. It definitely wasn’t a case of him being uneducated and passing on rough methods.

i would never leave my cables like the original post, but i fail to see how that stripping tool or a knife could possibly be used in a tight enclosure without leaving 12 inches of sheath on.
 
When using a stripping knife with back boxes you will have to leave about an inch or two outer sheath on the cables.
Poking the knife in any closer you can’t really see how deep your cutting
 
John Ward also maintains that stripping using the cpc is fine, and it doesn't cause it to stretch...I am inclined to believe him.
 
if you watch the video, he scores the sheath first, then uses knife to tidy up the cut. he don't half waffle on though.
 
Tel, if you watch the WHOLE video...he demonstrates scoring first, then simply using the cpc to slice the outer sheath.
but he does go on a bit!
 
whole 19 minutes. sod that. i gave up at 7 mins.
 
You missed the bit about stretching the cpc then...honestly, you try to help some folks!
His delivery does have conflicting opinions, but his politically incorrect comments and wacky jumpers have some comedy value, imho.
 
if yous read my earlier post, i do strip that way some of the time, but trim the ragged sheath off after ( unless nobody's looking. ;)).
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I used to put the earth sleeve on and white heat shrink over the T&E.

T&E outer sheath was white as well
perhaps that habit comes from muzzling crocs? :p:p:p.
 

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