It should be earthed, that's good, it's called equipotential bonding. It has nothing to do with the safety of the gas pipe / mains cable too close situation. Anyone who does this should be fined.
Glad it proved to be the meter and you had a helpful engineer who actually got it polled and proved the problem. As for that cable, it's bad. Imagine a live wire touching the gas pipe. Not only will it blow a hole in the copper pipe, it will ignite the gas at the same time. Only needs something...
Yep, NEVER put the red lead in that connection, you don't have the knowledge to be able to use that one safely. Use the one on the right with the V symbol on it. You quite rightly assumed logically that the left connection would be the most commonly used one and it's crazy that the meter is like...
Oh, and the use of SY cable (the silver braded see through cable) highlights a bad installer. SY cable is NOT approved for use in BS7671 and is completely inappropriate in your situation there. I suspect a rogue electric charging point company?
What happens a lot is loose connections after a smart meter install. They rive about on the cables and they can come loose at the opposite end of where they were working. They are not obliged to test "your" side of the tails so they don't bother. A loose connection like this can cause your RCD...
I think you have the tester in current mode rather than voltage. When measuring current the test leads are in series with the load and the leads have a very low resistance, to allow the current through. If you put the tester across a voltage like this it will cause a short circuit. Check again...
Im after a metal clad 1g switch plate with a 1g switch and em light test key switch on same plate. Doesn't seem to be one anywhere. I know I can use a grid switch or Scolmore Click. Anyone know why this is?
Thanks all. It’s a Mediterranean restaurant with outdoor eating as we can’t eat indoors.
I think it’s defo an enclosure with RCD Main switch and 2 x 32A breakers feeding 2 x 4mm radials with single switches sockets on the end.
Keeping with the manufacture’s instructions to avoid issues should...
I have been asked to quote to install 6 x 1.8kW heaters to a wooden pergola with a perspex roof. It's on decking and there is a TN-C-S earth provided. There are obvious things to consider about the heat etc, but I'm more concerned about the electrical installation. It is 12m long and 4m wide and...
Simple solution here. This is what kitchen fitters do to get round it.
Get a 4g extension lead. Cut the plug off so no fusing issues. Put flex into a J.B. on ring main. Leave loose under plinth. Now you can plug in the cooker, washing machine, tumble dryer and dishwasher and there's no fear of a...
So when the appliance fuse blows in the plug of the appliance... Not your problem I guess. THAT's why they should be in a cupboard as high as reasonably practical on the hinge side. Which fuse blows first, the FCU or plugtop. Answers on a postcard
I had a ton of them a couple of years ago. cost me a fair whack of rectification work, but got there in the end. No problems exchanging with the wholesalers. Kind of forgave them as they are normally so good.
Did you ever resolve this? My best guess is a loose N conductor in the meter / cutout, if everything else is ok.
Some people also presume they can test an appliance at the plug, but I'm sorry, a cooker, washing machine, dishwasher etc, have heating elements and motors that are only energised...
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