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Discuss Alarm control panel in the Security Alarms, Door Entry and CCTV (Public) area at ElectriciansForums.net

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Hey guys

Sorry if in the wrong part of the forum.

I'm a fully qualified electrician but looking for abit of advice on alarm systems. Basically my sister in law is moving into a new house and no one knows the code for the alarm. Had a quick search around Google but couldn't find anything.

The alarm that's in is a c&k securtech if I swap it for a new control panel will the existing sensors etc still work or will they need changing to new ones same brand as the panel.

Any advice would be appreciated
 
There should be no problem doing a panel swap before you start make a note of the bell / sounder connections as the different panel manufacturers have no standard labeling of the bell / sounder connections so this can be a stumbling block if you are not familiar with the terminology although if you post up the equipment you intend to use then someone will help you out with the connections

The detectors and contact connections are straight forward
 
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just be aware when you remove the power and battery from your old panel the outside bell will ring as it has a battery built in so be ready with a ladder to disconnect the battery at the bell , the last thing you want is a bell going off when you are trying to work out the connections :)
 
with some panels you can. try snd download the installer manual for that panel.
 
The control panel with just be a plane box im sure you can default these panels but sorry can,t remember how i will have a look see if i have some instructions
 
For a securit 800l that looks like the same panel as yours to restore code defaults
1 place a small link supplied with the spare fuses, on the memory link , this is postioned above the valume control and labelled memory default
2 remove the mains and battery supply.
3 wait a few seconds then re connect the battery and then the mains
4 be sure to remove the link

Have a look and see if your panel applys to ths above
 
Quick update sorted out the code. It was a 700l which worked the same as the instructions to reset the alarm as a 800l so thanks for that appreciate it. The outside bell box isn't working will any bell box work with the system or does it have to be a certain type
 
Any external sounder will work as said earlier the connections differ between manufacturers but once you work out / identify how the existing panel and sounder is wired it is easy to connect a new sounder of your choice
 
Thats good news How do you know the outside bell dont work have you set the alarm and then set the alarm off by activating a sensor or door contact , and yes any bell box should work
 
Thats good news How do you know the outside bell dont work have you set the alarm and then set the alarm off by activating a sensor or door contact , and yes any bell box should work

When I opened the panel up the Internal sound rang but the outside didn't then when I set the new code I did the bell test again Internal rang outside didn't do anything.

I don't want to start a new thread it's sort of the same subject so I'll try here first

My mother in law alarm (family not having much luck with alarms at the min) started going off the other day for no reason now the keypad, pirs etc are dead. Got mains at the control panel but the glass fuse has blown. I've ordered some more to put one back in but going a feeling there's more to it than its just popped.

Am I right in thinking there should be 12-24v at one bracket of the glass fuse? If there should be then I think the transformer inside the panel has gone as there's mains coming in and would explain why the alarm started ringing (thinking the power had been cut)

If this is the case can these transformers be picked up or is it a case of changing the panel?

Here's a picture of the panel

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1447018804.226673.jpg
 
The 1A fuse is the battery fuse assuming the battery is good it would be possible to have 12vdc on each side of the fuse holder
Have you checked the output from the secondary side of the transformer to prove it is faulty you should get a voltage of 18 - 20vac if it is ok
Have you checked the battery voltage?
 
The 1A fuse is the battery fuse assuming the battery is good it would be possible to have 12vdc on each side of the fuse holder
Have you checked the output from the secondary side of the transformer to prove it is faulty you should get a voltage of 18 - 20vac if it is ok
Have you checked the battery voltage?

Shows how much I no about alarms lol. The fuse didn't have continuity but when placed it back in the fuse holder it did? I only had my continuity tester with me not my multimeter. I couldn't get the probes in properly on the output side of the transformer but on the pcb wasn't picking anything up on the pir terminals
 
Shows how much I no about alarms lol. The fuse didn't have continuity but when placed it back in the fuse holder it did? I only had my continuity tester with me not my multimeter. I couldn't get the probes in properly on the output side of the transformer but on the pcb wasn't picking anything up on the pir terminals

Without a multimeter you are not going to fault find on an alarm system
 
Without a multimeter you are not going to fault find on an alarm system

I've got one but left it in the van didn't take it with me. I'll have a butchers at the weekend with the multimeter. Is there any obvious things to look out for ? All sensors, keypad etc are dead.

When placing the continuity tester on both sides of the glass fuse holder it didn't pick up any voltage
 

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