Discuss How to mark conduit bender? in the UK Electrical Forum area at ElectriciansForums.net

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Good evening Gents

Om after some help and advice please on setting up a new conduit bender.
Im wanting to ask how to score a mark on the forming wheel to indicate bending points etc?

I usually do the way of doing a bend then offering up and trimming excess off but would like to learn the old school way of measuring exactly please and seen many formers with marks on for bending points and wondered how the find it out please!?

Thanks
 
2.5 x the diameter of the pipe. 20mm conduit 50mm mark. So this gives you the length to the back of the bend.

Sorry for sounding dumb but I’m not quite sure what you mean mate?
Ive seen people use hacksaw to mark Notch on the former wheel for back of bend etc!
Just wondered if you could please elaborate a bit more on what you mean and how to do it if li don’t mind?
 
@Leesparkykent I was going to say what you said but I knew it would not be understood. It is hard to explain the reference points in terms of that 50mm. To the OP I would say if you measure the length you need and mark your conduit, you would place that mark at a point which is equivalent to 90 degrees to the conduit in the pipe bender. There is a video on it under latest media. It really all depends on what kind of bend(s) you want to do. Look for "Back of Bend" on here through search. As a matter of interest if you look at the vid. you can see a bend to a box, the question is now, how are you going to screw the box/pipe together? You can imagine if you have a 90 degree bend you can't turn it around and around to screw it into the thread on the box and the box at the other end of the the bend. So how are you going to accommodate screwing in both ends?
 
2.5 x the diameter of the pipe. 20mm conduit 50mm mark. So this gives you the length to the back of the bend.

Eh? I have no idea what you mean by this?

For a 90 degree bend I just line the back of bend mark up with the front of the former, if you take the time to use a square to line it up you can get a perfectly accurate bend, if you do it by eye you can get within a mm or two.
 
Thanks for all the replies everyone. Also is it important to have the conduit sat parallel to ground as sometimes the arm which supports conduit makes the conduit sit up on an angle! Hope that makes sense!!? Thanks again
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Thanks for all the replies everyone. Also is it important to have the conduit sat parallel to ground as sometimes the arm which supports conduit makes the conduit sit up on an angle! Hope that makes sense!!? Thanks again
Forgot to also ask how much you take off the measurement for distance saddles and spacer saddles? Thanks
 
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you can see a bend to a box, the question is now, how are you going to screw the box/pipe together? You can imagine if you have a 90 degree bend you can't turn it around and around to screw it into the thread on the box and the box at the other end of the the bend. So how are you going to accommodate screwing in both ends?

Longthread and coupler (aka runner)
 
Thanks for all the replies everyone. Also is it important to have the conduit sat parallel to ground as sometimes the arm which supports conduit makes the conduit sit up on an angle! Hope that makes sense!!? Thanks again
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Forgot to also ask how much you take off the measurement for distance saddles and spacer saddles? Thanks

When your starting out it is better to take the time to get it all set up level and use a square to line your mark up with the former. Once you've been doing it a while you'll find yourself naturally starting to do it by eye and no longer need as much time spent on getting the perfect setup.

Spacer bars are around 3mmish and distance saddles around 6mm ish I think, but measure what ever you are using on site to make sure.
 
Good evening Gents

Om after some help and advice please on setting up a new conduit bender.
Im wanting to ask how to score a mark on the forming wheel to indicate bending points etc?

I usually do the way of doing a bend then offering up and trimming excess off but would like to learn the old school way of measuring exactly please and seen many formers with marks on for bending points and wondered how the find it out please!?

Thanks
Alan what kind of bender are you trying to use
 
Definitely set the bender up so that the conduit is level, that way you can put a magnetic spirit level with an adjustable bubble on the conduit. Dial in the angle you want, bend till the bubble is level, job done.
 
Alan what kind of bender are you trying to use

In the UK it will be this type
irwin-hilmor-cm35-pipe-bender_min_13135_P_1.jpg
 
@Leesparkykent I was going to say what you said but I knew it would not be understood. It is hard to explain the reference points in terms of that 50mm. To the OP I would say if you measure the length you need and mark your conduit, you would place that mark at a point which is equivalent to 90 degrees to the conduit in the pipe bender. There is a video on it under latest media. It really all depends on what kind of bend(s) you want to do. Look for "Back of Bend" on here through search. As a matter of interest if you look at the vid. you can see a bend to a box, the question is now, how are you going to screw the box/pipe together? You can imagine if you have a 90 degree bend you can't turn it around and around to screw it into the thread on the box and the box at the other end of the the bend. So how are you going to accommodate screwing in both ends?
VORTIGERN you can also use a 3 piece coupling or a union I don’t know what you call them to eliminate screwing it in
 
Never understood why formers don't come with a right angle on the rear radius to make lining up back of bend more accurate.

I mean you could go with a square but I just eye it for the sake of a few mm.
 
Never understood why formers don't come with a right angle on the rear radius to make lining up back of bend more accurate.

I mean you could go with a square but I just eye it for the sake of a few mm.
Nothing like ignoring the experts is there? they have obviously got the correct idea, if you chose to ignore it do it at your peril.
 
Nothing like ignoring the experts is there? they have obviously got the correct idea, if you chose to ignore it do it at your peril.
:eek:

There is as far between artisan and adequate as there is adequate and dog rough, the price reflects.

Can't imagine theres much call for artisan conduit installs but theres a lot for quick adequate ones.
 
:eek:

There is as far between artisan and adequate as there is adequate and dog rough, the price reflects.

Can't imagine theres much call for artisan conduit installs but theres a lot for quick adequate ones.
Didn't want to give you a disagree icon, but I do disagree with your thinking
 
VORTIGERN you can also use a 3 piece coupling or a union I don’t know what you call them to eliminate screwing it in
sounds interesting, not that I have ever used them I just assemble down and offer up to the hospital saddles I usually use. Like to see a pic of what you mean if poss.
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Longthread and coupler (aka runner)
The question was rhetorical just getting the OP to think about the practicalities outside of bends.
 
VORTIGERN you can also use a 3 piece coupling or a union I don’t know what you call them to eliminate screwing it in

We don't have them in the UK, we use a running coupler instead.
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sounds interesting, not that I have ever used them I just assemble down and offer up to the hospital saddles I usually use. Like to see a pic of what you mean if poss.

This shows how a 3 piece coupling works, it's not to different to a running coupler, just bulkier.

Assembling the conduit then fitting it in to the saddles only works up to a certain length of run, and when there aren't too many obstacles in the run. Otherwise runners are not so easy to avoid.
 
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That 3 piece coupling doesn't look very good. Does the ferrule ever catch the free floating part and unscrew when tightening together? I suppose you would need one of those things as a running coupler wouldn't work with american taper threads!
 
I have never heard of a running coupler. Learn something new everyday. But then I have never had the need for them. I think they look a bit untidy though and would spoil the line of the conduit install. Although I can see they would have their uses.
 
I have never heard of a running coupler. Learn something new everyday. But then I have never had the need for them. I think they look a bit untidy though and would spoil the line of the conduit install. Although I can see they would have their uses.

They do look slightly untidy, but they are necessary whenever you can't spin the conduit due or bends/obstructions or the conduit is just too long to assemble on the floor and lift into place.
How do you get over the problem of not being able to screw the conduit together? I guess you could fit a fit a small adaptable box, but that would look worse in my opinion.
 
They do look slightly untidy, but they are necessary whenever you can't spin the conduit due or bends/obstructions or the conduit is just too long to assemble on the floor and lift into place.
How do you get over the problem of not being able to screw the conduit together? I guess you could fit a fit a small adaptable box, but that would look worse in my opinion.
/
I have never heard of a running coupler. Learn something new everyday. But then I have never had the need for them. I think they look a bit untidy though and would spoil the line of the conduit install. Although I can see they would have their uses.
Don't think they would look unsightly in an industrial install though, having used the extensively.
 
/

Don't think they would look unsightly in an industrial install though, having used the extensively.
Remember showing one useless kid how to do one. I left him for a couple of hours to carry on and when I returned he was still struggling with it and I had to give him a nudge and tell him he needed to fit the nipple...still trying to screw the long thread in..:rolleyes:
 
Remember showing one useless kid how to do one. I left him for a couple of hours to carry on and when I returned he was still struggling with it and I had to give him a nudge and tell him he needed to fit the nipple...still trying to screw the long thread in..:rolleyes:
Did you make your own or buy ready made (nipples that is)
 
few times when a runnibg coupler has beed advise, I've unscrewed he box, screwed it onto the conduit, the refitted. saves a bit of Galvafroid anyway.
 
Something for a bored Apprentice, "here you go Son, stocks and dies pipe vice and a length of 32mm BE conduit, twenty nipples please cut them the same length as a normal 32mm coupler, oh and here is some Tallow to help cutting the thread, you won't need your Gym subscription this week either" see Sparking is give and take pays your wages and keeps you fit. wash your hands before you eat your Maccy Dees, there is enough grease in them as it is.
 
Something for a bored Apprentice, "here you go Son, stocks and dies pipe vice and a length of 32mm BE conduit, twenty nipples please cut them the same length as a normal 32mm coupler, oh and here is some Tallow to help cutting the thread, you won't need your Gym subscription this week either" see Sparking is give and take pays your wages and keeps you fit. wash your hands before you eat your Maccy Dees, there is enough grease in them as it is.
….and some of today's lads even use a machine to cut PVC conduit, eh?
 
….and some of today's lads even use a machine to cut PVC conduit, eh?
Softies then no stamina
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few times when a runnibg coupler has beed advise, I've unscrewed he box, screwed it onto the conduit, the refitted. saves a bit of Galvafroid anyway.
You been taking spelling lessons from Buzz Tell?
 
Attached is the best written instructions I have seen on bending conduit. They are Irish and quite old but the basics are the same.
The best way of making offsets and bends I have found is to draw the required shape on the floor in chalk, then offer the conduit against the drawing to see where the bends should be.
On a different note it was once pointed out to me that there is a difference between the way Scots and English do conduit and having looked about it seems to be true. Scottish apprentices are taught to always use a lock ring with every thread cut, whenever you screw on a box or coupling there should always be a lock ring in there. And I have heard of guys being pulled up at their trade test for not using lock rings. In England lock rings are used much less frequently. Has anyone else noticed this? or knows why it came about?
 

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